The Last Camino

December 18, 2014

On November 24, I stopped publishing my writings on my mom’s last camino. I have a number of theories about why that is, but one must surely be that I simply had nothing new to say, nor the same need or desire to say it. My mother’s decline simply went on and on, longer than any of us expected. It was inevitable that I’d adapt to the unfortunate situation just as we humans quickly adapt to (and take for granted) the good things in life. I could see that death was not as imminent as I had feared. That had made me feel a certain desperation in the first weeks, but I couldn’t sustain that intensity for so long. Maybe I had compassion fatigue.

Another theory is that my depression had lifted, and I began both to work more on my medical diagnostic startup and to have less desire, or need, to capture everything, to feel heard. I was not especially sad in the morning, nor did I walk through the outside world like a duckling who’d lost its mother. Why did my depression lift? I have read a lot of research on the power of cultivating positive emotion, how, in the words of Dr. Barbara Fredrickson, positivity broadens our cognition and creativity while building our resilience and immunity. For almost seven weeks now I have shown and felt more love and compassion and gratitude than for any similar period of time in my life. That may have lifted me in spite of myself.

Catching Up

Here is where we left off last month, ending with the latest as of Friday evening, December 19, 2014.

November 25, 2014

I don’t even know where I am.

You’re in your bed, Mom, in your living room, in your house.

You keep saying that.

* * *

Pain in my tummy, she says, crying.

I press the bolus button. I’m sorry, I say. It’s not your fault.

What if I partied too hard? she says. And got drunk all the time and –

You didn’t do any of that, Mom. You lived a good, honest life. You were a hard worker, you cared about people, you were always thoughtful and giving.

Then why doesn’t anybody visit me? she says.

I remind her that she’s constantly got visitors, and she can’t name anyone she wants to visit her who hasn’t.

* * *

She is tetchy. Tells me I speak to her very disrespectfully, then that I have an offensive tone. “I think you are mistaken,” I say. “That’s your opinion,” she says. She is peevish that I can’t hear her in the kitchen. She leans over with her big coffee mug full of coffee and I think she’s trying to set it on the floor. I reach out for it and she withdraws it quickly and gives me a stare I can’t figure out.

Later, she is frustrated with her nausea. “I wish I could just go away,” she says.

“Come here,” she says later, motioning me to come closer. I go to the bedside and she holds up her arms. I lean down to hug her and she says, with tears, “I’m sorry I’ve been so unbearable.” I tell her she’s not at all, and that no one thinks that. Regarding her inability to eat most food, she also apologized for being a “prima donna”. Again I told her that it wasn’t her fault and no one thought of her that way. We all loved her.

“I want to go home,” she says.

Hospice must not have seen their first How to Die book lying around, so they had brought another one. It says that with 1 to 2 weeks to live, a person uses “symbolic language” of “going home”.

“You want to go home?”

“Yes.”

I consider this. “Where is home?”

“Someplace not here,” she said.

* * *

I’m still not depressed. I trust this is a temporary state of affairs, but I’m curious about why. A kind of fatigue or numbness? Shock? Not denial, certainly. Since Peggie called me weeks ago I have had no hope. But I don’t go about my day in quite the same hopelessness and sadness. I can become sad very quickly – if I think about Mom’s psychological suffering, or what my life will be like afterward, or even something I’ve written down. The tell-tale humidity enters my nose, the lump that Mom calls Timothy lodges in my throat, and if I want not to cry I have to stop thinking about whatever I was thinking about.

* * *

November 26, 2014

We were up at about 2:30a.m. Mom went to the bathroom and took a milligram of Ativan. She was up again at about 8a.m. and asked for her coffee. As she drank it I asked her to take some more Ativan.

“What’s it for?” she asked.

“It helps you not to be nauseated,” I said.

“I don’t like not knowing what I’m taking.”

“You’ve taken it every few hours for over four weeks.”

“I want to see a piece of paper,” she said, and mimed words going across a piece of paper, “that says what it’s for.”

We went around on this for quite a while. It would be almost an hour before she agreed to take the Ativan. We’re lucky she didn’t vomit after drinking her coffee.

* * *

She seems to have awakened with less short-term memory in place than ever before. “What are we going to do today?” “I’d like to go somewhere.” “I want to go outside and read.”

“It’s cold outside, Mom. The last two times we took you out in your wheelchair it was warmer than today and you got cold.”

“You can dress me and we’ll go outside.”

“You can’t walk, Mom.”

“I can’t?” She struggles to absorb this.

Each discovery like a new blow. I was reminded of Bill Murray’s character in “Groundhog Day”. Each day begins anew, exactly as the day before, except for the new choices he makes. But Murray’s character remembers the previous days, and so is able to learn. My mother awakens each day into a nightmare of unremembered incapacitation.

The hospice nurse Deb asked Mom what she thinks about “this process” – of dying – and Mom said, “I don’t even know what process is going on.”

* * *

She talks of travel with friends, and “an ocean of pumpernickel”.

* * *

After I have reminded her of the situation she is in, she says, “You’re so stoical and it’s my LIFE we’re talking about.”

* * *

She looks at her glass mosaic lamp. “I remember how EXCITED I was to get the lamp. Through the lamp came three colors: yellow, green, green, and emerald.”

“How did you show up in my life? I didn’t just show up and say hello are you my son? I would have never ever ever ever left you alone.”

* * *

“Do I have a clear thought?”

“Sometimes you do.”

She begins to cry.

* * *

Nurse Deb says, “Are you excited for what’s next?”

Uh-oh.

“No,” Mom says. “I don’t even know what’s next.”

“You don’t know where you’re going next?”

“My whole life was taken overnight, not to be replaced by anything I know,” Mom says.

“Do you know heaven?”

Mom shuts down. “I don’t want to have this discussion,” she says. “I’m not having this discussion. I’m sorry.”

* * *

“I just want to go home,” she says. “Just get it over with.”

* * *

For two and a half hours this morning, my mother was more morose and dejected than I have ever seen her. Not crying, but seemingly utterly defeated. Nurse Deb mentioned something about Mom’s condition and Mom simply stared at her for a long time. Deb would later say, “I can see you’re angry, Inge.” Mom didn’t answer. “And I can understand why,” Deb added.

Deb met Mom a number of years ago, when Mom taught a class on cooking and culinary arts at the Rocky Mountain Academy, a private school that’s now shuttered. “In a very short time,” she tells Mom, “you made a huge impact on my daughters’ lives.” Deb has tears in her eyes. “At the worst time of their lives, you were there for them. And my oldest daughter is who she is and is doing what she’s doing in large part because of you.” Her daughter, who had taken Mom’s cooking and manners classes, is a professional baker. “She especially loved the manners you taught around eating. I’m so grateful that I could come here and see you this morning, Inge. I admire you so much. You are such a strong, brave, creative woman. I wish I had an ounce of your creative juices.”

* * *

“Pumpkin?” she calls. Once again the dog has gone into her bedroom and jumped up on the bed, where he has always slept. I go and fetch the dog. Madeline had given him a bath for the occasion, so he’s pleasantly fluffy. I put him down on Mom’s lap and she smiles. She says to Pumpkin, “Tomorrow I’ll have to give you treats.”

“Do you want me to get some of his baloney from the fridge?”

“That would be nice,” she says. Her smile is like direct sunlight after darkness.

She’s getting to do at least this one thing that she used to do before. It’s a happy moment, if you can catch it, and I was lucky enough to be paying attention to what had just happened. I cultivated gratitude then and there. One day I will be happy I did – that I had a moment that felt happy at the time rather than just in retrospect. May there be more such moments for both of us before she goes.

* * *

So we just threw ourselves into the very expensive popcorn, she says.

* * *

Adam calls. Mom gives me a thumbs-up. Later she chuckles at something. Again I can’t believe I’m seeing my mother happy. I can barely hear her chuckle and it sounds very different, but she is clearly enjoying a moment in time.

She hasn’t fully surrendered yet. Maybe she just can’t remember to.

* * *

Shall I wake up my arm or wake up Big Ben?

* * *

9:42a.m. She’s asleep again. Though I will say that if one sound can bring her out of her sleep, it’s the awful-to-her sound of me cracking my knuckles.

In the early evenings, not long after sundown, she will fall asleep. I watch a movie or work on my laptop from the emerald couch to her left. Sometimes I go into the spare bedroom so as not to worry about waking her. At around 11 or midnight I throw Mom’s bedroom comforter onto the reddish couch to which I’ve added a foamy couch-width layer of some kind of substance brought by hospice. It fits the couch perfectly, and it’s a lot more comfortable. Some nights, like tonight, I hear her making sounds that might mean she’s distressed, but I’m not sure. I ask the question.

Are you having pain?

Tonight, just now, she says “yes” and nods her head. I find the bolus and press the button. She groans a few times over three or four minutes and then falls asleep. It occurs to me that I’m lying in one of three places where Mom spent a lot of her time, and certainly most of her time in the house: this end of this couch. Well, it’s no big deal. But that is the sort of story that might bring me to nostalgia after she’s gone.

I read things on the web for a while. I hear Mom whimper. I press the button.

I stay up too late to reliably get seven and a half hours of sleep. This morning, for example, during what I hoped was a brief interlude of wakefulness before we went back to sleep, she said she wanted coffee. It was 7:30a.m., and I’d gone to bed at a little before 2a.m. I’m doing the same thing tonight. I suppose, for the same reason Americans refuse to carpool: it’s just the only really private, and unworried, time I have.

* * *

Thanksgiving November 27, 2014

Another night of pain the base level of hydromorphone drip can’t handle. Several times I awoke to hear her and to press the button. She whimpered. “Just make it go away.”

We woke up at a magisterial 10:20a.m.

“Happy Thanksgiving, Mom.”

She brightens. “Happy Thanksgiving.” A pause. “I didn’t intend to forget about it.”

“I know you didn’t, Mom. It’s okay to forget.”

* * *

“Would you like some tea?” I ask.

Her smile was beatific.

* * *

“Can you tell me, in complete sentences, what is going to happen?”

“What is going to happen when, Mom?”

“Today. What are we going to do? Are we going to get dressed, go outside, see a movie, or the dolphins, or – I just want to know something.”

* * *

Are you a doctor? she asks, for the second time.

No, but I’m a lawyer.

You can’t help me.

No, but the doctors couldn’t either.

She chuckles.

* * *

It feels like you’re holding me here.

No, Mom.

I don’t know what to think. I’m trying to be kind. But I don’t know for what purpose.

* * *

She has mentioned two things that don’t seem to relate to one another. I ask her what one has to do with the other. I am calm.

“I thought I might find a friend in you,” she says, “but I guess not.”

She has been like this today. She’s a little paranoid, hears disrespect and offense in neutral or even loving statements.

Picking at her primal wound.

* * *

The TV reminds her of someone’s sister being buried above Meeker. It becomes exhausting to ask her to repeat herself, see her annoyance or discouragement, hear what she’s saying, realize it makes no sense, and try to think of what to say that will not upset her. Sometimes, whether I have heard or understood her, I say, “I think that’s exactly right.”

* * *

Madeline’s daughter Kelly has offered to stay overnight with Mom to give me a break. She dropped by this evening to pick up Pumpkin and bring some Thanksgiving food. Mom wasn’t interested in eating. Kelly, who had also taken cooking and manners classes from my mother, kneeled next to the bed and took Mom’s hand and told her, “I think about you every day. I love you so much.” Mom’s eyes welled up.

Later, Mom said, “I know everything is difficult for me.” I didn’t hear what she said. Kelly repeated it.

“I know, Mom. A lot of things are difficult. But you don’t have to do anything now. Just give yourself a break. Forgive yourself.”

She turned her head away from me.

* * *

She goes to sleep at around six. I hear her whimper and pause the movie I’m watching to listen. No more sound. I press the button just to be sure. Moments later, she reaches for it herself and I tell her I already got it.

In my Facebook feed, our friend Michele had brought back a photo from late September by liking it. I liked it too. As I did so, it hit me that I will be most sad when I revisit old memories – in videos, pictures, prose, her Facebook page, my own mind. I’m not doing it now. At least partly because it’s premature, but also for lack of time.

* * *

November 28, 2014

She needed six straight pumps of her medication last night. We eventually slept in till around 10a.m. She vomited up green bile, more than I thought she could have in her. When she vomits it comes out through her nose, too. She was nauseated several times lately, but without having eaten anything.

She has been sleeping for at least half an hour. I hear her stir slightly and she says, “I don’t want to die anymore.” She’s silent for a moment and then she says something else. I don’t recall it, but it doesn’t seem to be related.

I am less tearful now, in less pain, and even, one could say, less compassionate. Or maybe it’s just excessive pity I’m no longer feeling? I certainly couldn’t have kept up with the pace I set in the first two weeks.

* * *

“I just shot two lynxes,” Mom says. She’s been dreaming.

I’m tired of blogging, or just have no interest right now. When events and emotions were changing quickly, I wanted to write. Now that Mom’s changes are subtler and smaller, now that my emotions are higher and more stable, there’s not much that interests me. It’s just going to be a waiting thing.

* * *

“Do you want to sleep now?”

She nods. “There’s nothing else to do anyway.”

“Except talk or watch TV. Or we could look at the Camino pictures now if you want to.”

She shakes her head. “That part of my life is over,” she says.

I feel chilled. Is this just self-pity or is she really not able to appreciate it anymore?

* * *

Lilyhammer. Does it have to be pressed?

What?

Does it have to be pressed? she says. She pushes an imaginary button in front of her.  She doesn’t know what has to be pressed to get the show started, but she knows there’s pressing that needs to go on.

* * *

November 29, 2014

2a.m. I’ve been pressing her pain pump. She asks to go to the bathroom – and then she wants to read, bless her heart. Is she able to understand? Will her eyes work? She’s said she can’t read text on the TV any longer.

“I’m a very avid reader,” she says, as if she were explaining her hobbies and interests on a game show. “And an even greater writer.” She’d never said anything like this. “Some people may think it’s not that great but I like it.”

I go through a number of books to find one she agrees on. I guess correctly that she has not read Doris Kearns Goodwin’s No Ordinary Time. She was never a reader of history or biography. She says she started it once, and it was an excellent book, and she’d like to start it again. I pull it out and hand it to her. I turn on the light behind her. For a few minutes she flips through some pages, stopping occasionally because her eyes are closed.

* * *

The nurse who came late, at my request, to increase Mom’s demand dosage from .2ml to .3 ml, mentioned a drug that will help with Mom’s agitation. I don’t know where she heard that Mom was agitated, but I was happy to know we might be able to reduce her irritability and paranoia.

* * *

November 30, 2014

It was a nice visit with Damon and Jannilyn. I left at a little before noon because Bonnie was ending her shift with Mom at 1p.m. When Silke arrived at a little after 3p.m., Mom woke up.

And then she, and we, went through her prognosis all over again. And she cried, and she cried.

* * *

6:40p.m. Mom woke up and began crying again. She looked at my face and started crying. I hugged her head close to me and placed my cheek against her head. It’s so hard to watch her keening. Not as hard as it would have been a few weeks ago. I have detachment now. Chemical, maybe. I’m more like Adam, the least sentimental person I know: This is part of the process. It’s sad but not tragic. It’ll hit me later.

* * *

I ask her, “What’re you thinking?”

“Oh, son.” She lifts her hand to the level of her forehead and waves it in circles for several seconds. “I don’t have a coherent thought,” she says.

This happens again at about 1:30a.m. The lights are out and I’m on the couch, unable to fall asleep, needing to wait to press Mom’s pain pump in any event. Mom begins crying vigorously. “Mom,” I say. “Are you having a dream?” She nods. “Do you want to talk about it?”

“Oh, son,” she says, and turns away.

I feel shut out. She has refused to talk about anything of depth because, I suppose, depth is now equivalent to death.

* * *

“Do you want some water?” I say.

She looks at me. “What does it matter, really?”

I don’t have an answer. I have thought the same thing: why would we force food or water on her? It’s not like it’s going to heal her, or extend her life by weeks or months. If she drank more she might live a day or two longer.

“It’s up to you, Mom,” I say.

* * *

She would later explain that she had died and people were late to her funeral. This was what she’d been dreaming, apparently. But at first she didn’t understand it as a dream. She said it wasn’t, but I repeated that she had been dreaming and she didn’t resist it further.

When Silke was here earlier I told Mom the Teal Warrior sisters had asked me to let her know that she shouldn’t stay on their account, for fear of disappointing them. Mom also cried about Candy and me. Silke told her we were mature and could handle it.

* * *

“Bin ich krank?” Mom asks.  Am I sick?

Silke and I say yes.

“Mit was?”  With what?

“Krebs,” I say.  Cancer.

“How much quality time do I have?” she asks, in German.

“We don’t know for sure,” I say. “We know that people can survive for two weeks without food, on just water, but you’re not drinking much water either.”

Unless I see evidence of some greater acceptance that may have come from repeating this for the third or fourth time, I may not tell her about her situation again without a strong reason.

* * *

She puts her hand on my face. “From your first breath,” she says. She’s gazing at me with so much love.

* * *

“I wanted more time,” she says to Silke and me. “More time to accept.”

* * *

“What is the etiquette for this?” she says.

“There is none,” Silke says.

“I feel I’m making a mess of it.”

“Not at all, Mom.”

“I just want to pack my things and go home.”

* * *

“What do they say is wrong with me?”

* * *

“Where is Brianna?” She’s crying.

“She’s in Alabama.”

“Does she have a job?”

“She just got one, I think.”

“Who hasn’t visited at all?”

Of course the answer is, Most of the people on the planet have not visited. What does she want to know? “All of your friends have visited,” I say. “Some of them come almost every day.”

* * *

“Why don’t you go in the spare room and go to bed,” she says. “I don’t want to feel guilty because I can’t go to sleep.”

“Well, I’m concerned about you having pain and not remembering to press the button.”

“I’ll find it right here,” she says, pointing correctly. “I’m just going to read.”

“Okay. I need to pick out a book for you then.”

“I can just browse on my own,” she says.

“No, Mom, you can’t.”

“Why not?” she says, astounded by my answer.

“You can’t walk.”

“I can’t?” she says. She’s genuinely amazed. “Have we had this conversation before?”

* * *

December 1, 2014

Since about yesterday, she has become very weepy, she sometimes speaks to me in German, and her body and especially her hands shake with a kind of palsy. She drank only a small portion of her 6-ounce water bottle yesterday.

“Who is paying my finances?” she asked this morning. “The utilities, electric –“

“I am, Mom. There’s nothing to worry about.”

“I still need to know how much it is so I can pay you back.”

* * *

“I don’t even know where I’ve been the last few months.”

* * *

December 2, 2014

And today I wrote nothing.

I worry about getting used to this routine. I suppose over five weeks of this may have worn me out, caused me to begin to conserve energy, or sanity. Either way, it weighs on my mind.

* * *

Mom ate two small bowls of chicken noodle soup. I thought of one of the nurses yesterday, telling Mom, “You’re a tough woman, Inge.” I gathered the nurse thought she was hanging on longer than expected.

* * *

December 3, 2014

Every time I open my mouth I wonder if I can trust you.

Well, I’m the same trustworthy son you’ve always known.

That’s what you say, but there are trust issues.

* * *

“If you didn’t think I was your mother, I wouldn’t be worth anything.” Something like that. The syntax was a bit different, but I think this is what she meant.

* * *

I’d been helping her out. “Thank you,” she whispered.

“Thank you,” I said, “for being my mom.”

Such a grand smile crept across her face, and she opened her arms for a hug.

* * *

December 4, 2014 6:18a.m.

I’ve been up for an hour with Mom. She has such pain in her abdomen that she was crying, again. I hit her pain pump, gave her some morphine (a mistake?), and renewed her Ativan and the other thing, Halo-something.

“I been thinking,” she says, “about comparing the good colors with the evil colors.”

“What are the evil colors?”

“There are also safe colors,” she says.

“What are the safe colors?”

“Yellow,” she says.

“Yellow is a safe color?”

“Well,” she says, “I wouldn’t say safe, but you can rest a while.”

“What are some good colors?”

“Temerald green,” she says.

“Emerald green?”

“No, not emerald, temerald.” She thinks for a moment. “Did I dream that?”

* * *

December 6, 2014

“Who says that is good for me?” she says, referring to the Ativan I’m offering her.

“Well, the nurses do and I do.”

“Who are you?”

“I’m your son.”

“You’re not my son. My son would be frantic with worry. My son would be kind and compassionate. My son would offer me food.”

This followed her crying “Rudeness!” when I took a cup out of her hand so she didn’t have to risk falling out of bed to set it on the floor.

* * *

In the middle of last night, Adam and I are both up. Adam was up with Mom first, and I took over to sit her on the toilet. Adam retreats to the kitchen and I follow. We talk for a while, and then I hear Mom sobbing. I walk into the living room. “Are you okay, Mom? Are you in pain?”

She shakes her head. “It’s just fear,” she says. She’s been prickly so I don’t ask her fear of what. Besides, most human beings would say she had plenty to be afraid of.

* * *

With Adam here to watch Mom, Alex and I drove to Telluride in his rental car. Alex, one of

Alejandro and Cameron in Telluride

my best friends from law school, had arrived on Thursday night from the Dominican Republic, and would go back early Monday morning.  We had a few hours of really nice skiing under lifts 4, 5, and 6. I’m so out of shape. Six weeks of sedentariness. My thighs gave out early. We went to the Brown Dog for pizza. Then we drove home, tired as could be. Probably some altitude effects there. Alex and I began to watch a movie at about 7p.m. but at about 8p.m. he begged off, saying he was going back to his hotel to sleep. He leaves already tomorrow to spend his last night in Grand Junction.

But how to capture the gesture he made, a guy without a lot of time to spend away from work and family, traveling for longer than it would have taken for him to get to Eastern Europe? I’m grateful, and I’m also happy that he (surely) feels better for having come. He said he’s seen how his mother never really recovered from the deaths of her parents, so he felt he had some insight into what I must be going through.

That’s empathy.

* * *

I remain almost disturbingly sanguine. I seem to have accepted reality far more quickly than I’d have imagined.

* * *

December 7, 2014

Alejandro has gone. He came to the house this morning at around ten, we hung out together with Adam for a while, and then he drove Adam to the urgent care to check on a staph infection. Not long afterward Bonnie came to watch Mom and we three boys went to Starbucks, where I showed Adam and Alex the rough video of my company’s differential diagnosis

Adam, Alex, and Cameron at the Black Canyon

product, and then, because we still had time but nothing to do with our hands, we went to Horsefly, a bar across from Coffee Trader. And then to the Black Canyon, whose steep walls in the coming dusk they both enjoyed. “Thank you, Cameron,” Alex said.

* * *

Back at home I was happy to have Alex join me in a movie, though we said almost nothing during it. I’d never heard of “Detachment,” with Adrien Brody, but it was very good. It was late, and Alex said he’d be leaving for Grand Junction soon. As Alex was in the kitchen giving Adam his new contact information, I was standing by the front door, ready to give him a hug and escort him out. But they were taking longer than I thought they would, and I decided I wanted to watch my mother sleep. I stood there watching her, and after a while I began to cry.

She opened her eyes and I leaned down to hug her and kiss her head, and also to hide my eyes from her. She made some cooing sounds and stroked my arm. “What’s the matter, son?” she said, tenderly.  How did she know?

“I’m okay,” I said, because it seemed better than saying, “Nothing.”

I hugged her some more and kissed her. By now Alex was watching us. I stood up and he saw my face. He reached for her hand in both of his and said goodbye, and said something like, “Bless you.”

I walked ahead of him out the door.

“It’s tough,” he said.

“I think that movie softened me up,” I said, laughing.

“Me too,” he said. I heard him sniff. He took his glasses off and began to clean them.

I wondered why I was still standing there. I moved to hug Alex. “I’m so grateful you came,” I said. We both shook as we cried. I could feel his belly contracting with the same kind of silent tears I shed. “You’re a real friend,” I said.

“You are too.”

We hugged for a good long while. “Keep us posted,” he said.

“Yeah,” I said, and, remembering that some of the Teal Warriors had said my last post was on November 21 and they feared the worst, I added, “I know I’ve left people hanging with the blog.”

He told me not to worry about that, but to keep him updated. “Even if it’s something short,” he said.

And then he was off to the Caribbean.

* * *

December 9 (really 10, at 1:24a.m.), 2014

This morning I showed her pictures from her Facebook feed. A warm orange-yellow sunset over the ocean. A picture of Carrie, now living in Nebraska. “Gorgeous,” Mom murmured. She gazed at these with such wonder and gratitude. I started showing her videos. A dog that walked (or appeared to) on its front legs, its body in the air, while pissing on the sidewalk. A baby chimp clutching a stuffed-animal baby chimp. I was sitting on the emerald couch and holding the phone’s screen toward her, so that she watched the video with the open curiosity of a child and I watched her beautiful face and shining eyes. I read people’s comments on her Facebook page. I spoke in different voices and made everything sound better, or explained or summarized things to sound wonderful. I noticed she didn’t respond as much as she did a few weeks ago.

* * *

December 11, 2014   From Telluride, brief overnight visit

Slept in a bit, dehydrated from karaoke the night before, and got up at around 10:20a.m. I then spent a few hours cleaning up the condo for holiday guests before driving back to Montrose. Adam said Inge Bell had decided to stay the night, and that Mom had awakened in the middle of the night and was obstreperous and paranoid. Very difficult. Suzanne said this sounds like “terminal restlessness.”

Mom said, when she saw Suzanne, “I’m glad it’s you.”

Mom said she hurts all over. “Why does it have to be this way?” she asked Suzanne, who told her that she appreciated Mom’s example and her grace.

“She doesn’t want to go,” Suzanne, said, “she’s just really bummed. She got some peace during that conversation.”

“The folks who usually go down kicking and screaming are strong-willed and they’re women,” Suzanne told me. “Maybe because of all the obstacles they have to overcome. Your mom definitely falls into that category.”

But she refused to take the liquid bowel care medicine or a suppository. Suzanne gave her a choice among those two and hurting and Mom chose not to take the medication.

* * *

11:25p.m. Nurse Suzanne, I have learned from Adam, more than doubled Mom’s base dose. Suzanne thought Mom had crossed a line between consciousness and comfort, and she needed to be less conscious. Indeed, Mom hasn’t been able to sit up, wake up, or say much of anything since I arrived 10 hours ago. “Why are you so loving to me?” was her sole sentence of the day.

“Because you’re lovable,” I said, bearing in mind her primal wound, hoping I could somehow reach her more effectively now than at any other time in her life. “Because I love you. You’re worth loving.”

It is . . . something (sad? Buddhists say no) that I have been feeling my mother’s face and hair and holding her hand more in the last few weeks than in the rest of my life together. Kissing her, calling her sweetheart. I think her insecurities caused her to push people away at times.

* * *

I was concerned that so much mouth breathing during sleep would really dehydrate her.

“Are you thirsty, Mom?” I asked this several times. She shook her head at the first. At the second she simply stared ahead, vacantly.

* * *

I have had a few moments of sadness. In the car on the way from Telluride. In the house as I watched her and reflected on “terminal restlessness” or how she doesn’t want to die, even now.

* * *

She reached an arm up. The gesture wasn’t clear but I had the feeling she was seeking a hug. I leaned down and hugged her, and she reached up, this woman who was unable to wake up or respond to questions, and wrapped both arms around my torso, holding them there herself. After a long hug I stood up and caressed her face and her head. It’s now something you’d think of, I suppose, as a skull. The bones that give a skull its shape are to her face as a mountain range is to the plains on either side.

* * *

My having nothing to say in my blog after late November coincided with a surprising lift in my mood. How could I be less depressed, less sad, less anxious as my mother’s condition worsened? But there I was, trying out a number of theories to explain why. Acceptance? Had I, as humans do, adapted to a new normal? I had found a routine in the midst of things. Or maybe I just recognized her less and less? Or medication that included thyroid pills was working.

* * *

The routine left the stage of her bedroom and stuck to the stage that was the hospital bed in the living room. We stopped walking her to the bathroom and instead helped her to step out of bed, turn around about 120 degrees, and sit on the portable commode. (How many people who have used that commode have died within weeks or days?) She was able to eat fewer and fewer things, even as she complained of hunger and blamed others for not bringing her something she could eat, whatever that was. For about the last week, she has probably not consumed and kept down more than a spoonful of anything. She’s not even drinking much water. How can a person survive for weeks on less than six ounces a day? In a dry climate? And now she sleeps without cease and breathes out over and over through her mouth.

* * *

Sometimes there is a long pause between her breaths. Some are only five seconds, but some are seven, even ten. Ten seconds between her out-breath and her in-breath.
Our friend Michele texted from the Middle East to tell me that she wanted to visit Mom again. She didn’t care that Mom might not be able to talk, and didn’t seem dissuaded by the prospect of arriving (next weekend) after Mom had already passed away. “For support,” she said. And, she added, because the love between my mother and me had inspired her to go to her own mother, herself with Stage 4 breast cancer. Her mother had abused her, physically and emotionally. When Michele was 14 her mother threatened to kill her over a dish of food. “My world changed completely,” she said. I told her that Mom had suffered a similarly arbitrary act from her father that propelled her out of the house.  Imagine how bad home must have been when she all but ran from it at the age of 15.

How on earth did Mom manage to live with Opa, in Germany, when I was an infant? She was only 23, 24 years old, just a stone’s throw from the terrified 15-year-old who had spirited herself to safety.

* * *

December 12, 2014

My master Samuel Beckett once wrote a good friend, a producer of BBC Radio, after her estranged husband died.

All I could say, and much more, and much better, you will have said to yourself long ago. And I have so little light and wisdom in me, when it comes to such disaster, that I can see nothing for us but the old earth turning onward and time feasting on our suffering along with the rest. Somewhere at the heart of the gales of grief (and of love too, I’ve been told) already they have blown themselves out.

* * *

“Would you just . . . stop talking? Leave me alone?” She was nearly as obstreperous tonight, but not as bad as Wednesday night, when she pinched and bit Adam and Inge Bell and threatened to call the police on these people who were holding her in this house against her will. Today she was sedated with both painkillers (the dosage had gone from .45ml an hour to 1.0ml an hour) and the two relaxant medications. Perhaps selfishly, I asked Nurse Suzanne to dial the painkiller down to .9. Several hours later, Mom and I had some tender moments.

* * *

The next time she woke up, she was sitting on the edge of the bed. I ran out to help her use the commode. She sat there for quite a while, that vacant look on her face, queerly expressionless, along with her disinclination or inability to speak much. Separated by several minutes each, she peed four or five streams. At last I sat her on the bed and there she would sit, stubbornly, falling asleep while sitting, falling backwards, but refusing to lie back in the bed. “I want to go to sleep,” she’d say, and no sooner had I stood up and repeated, “You want to go to sleep?” than she would shake her head or say “no”. When Adam or I offered her water or help getting in bed, she was prickly. And she refused to take her relaxant medication. We went ‘round like this.

* * *

December 13, 2014

Mom was up and restless from about 5:30, when Adam called me out because Mom was trying to get out on the wrong side of the bed, to a little after 7. She spent most of that time sitting, as before, on the edge of the bed. “This will be another indecision marathon,” I said to Adam. He nodded. Once again she would not either go to the bathroom or lie back down in bed, and once again she kept saying she wanted to go to sleep, or wanted to go to the bathroom, and I’d stand up and repeat what she’d said and she would shake her head or say “no”. And she was still refusing to take her sublingual drops. Adam and I have been dropping them in while she sleeps, and trying not to get caught.

* * *

“Who are you?” she asked, after she’d awakened in the early afternoon.

“I’m your son.”

“Aww,” Berle said, and to Mom, “That’s Prince Cameron, Inge.”

* * *

I still have more tics when I’m out of the house.

* * *

At a little after five I got into bed next to Mom, squeezing myself between her shoulder and the railing. With my left hand I held her left, while I reached my right arm across her chest and my right hand cupping the side of her face. I listened to her breathing, once even a light snore like old times, and I tried to imagine not hearing any such thing, being alone in my Telluride condo, or here, or a hotel room, and knowing I would never see or hear my mother again. It’s just such scenarios that get the waterworks going. But I also feel the gratitude: it hasn’t happened yet, she’s still here. I imagined a dream in which I touched my mother in the same way, and then woke up. I felt the difference between the slicing pain of waking up and realizing it was all a dream and waking up and thinking she’s right here with me now, just as in the dream, hallelujah.

* * *

Berle told me her father died five years ago and it still just kills her. She said it took two years before she stopped crying regularly.

* * *

I walked into the living room a little after midnight. Mom was on the floor between the bed and the reddish couch. “What are you doing, Mom?” Adam was coming out of the other bedroom. We got her back on the bed. She talked about birds. Yesterday, she’d said she had a cat. Still, she’d recently come out of sleep and asked me not to crack my knuckles, something she’s been complaining about for about 40 years.

* * *

Tonight she was speaking in German, and I spoke German back.

She said something about getting spanked when you get home.

“Did this happen in Germany?” I said. I think she said yes.

“I’ve really got to get home,” she said. It was the second time in half an hour that she’d talked about going home. I told her she could go whenever she wanted. I’d be okay.

* * *

It is well-documented that observing others in a particular emotional state automatically triggers the representation of that state in the observer (Dimberg & Thunberg, 1998).

* * *

December 14, 2014

I began last night in my bed (Adam was snoring in the living room), switched to the couch after we got up with Mom and Adam went into Mom’s bedroom, and was awakened from the couch by Mom moving toward the edge of the bed. Bonnie came over. Mom asked who I was. But she also smiled when I kissed her head over and over. “She’s smiling,” Bonnie said, with joy.

8:58p.m. I sit sometimes and look at her. Sometimes I do Tonglen. If I start thinking at all, especially of my future, without her, wishing she could see and experience what I am, my eyes fill up.

Wishing she could be here to experience more joy, that she could have experienced more joy, will, I think, be the hardest on me.

* * *

I thought I read somewhere that when someone is close to death, their eyes become “glassy”. Mom’s eyes are definitely different in their sheen, and they often focus at random places before her – even when I am trying to direct her attention to a particular thing, like the marijuana pipe or water bottle.

* * *

December 15, 2014

Mom has been all but unable to speak all day, and as of 9:30p.m., it has gotten worse. Her stays on the commode get longer and longer. For some reason she keeps getting out on the wrong side of the bed, and then it’s nearly impossible to persuade her to go back across the bed to the commode. She either freezes and continually says, “In a minute”, or she tries to get out on the wrong side of the bed, as if she thinks she’s going all the way around – or is just suffering too much short-term memory loss coupled with disorientation.

* * *

She calls Adam “son”.

* * *

I say, Are you in physical pain?

No.

Psychological pain?

No.

You’re not feeling a little angry or anxious or sad?

No response.

* * *

Nurse Suzanne nods toward my restless mother and says, “Is the new medication amount working for you?”

“She has hardly had any pain that required us to hit the pain pump and she’s still alert at times.”

“I mean are you okay with the behavior?” I look at her dumbly. “Some people aren’t,” she says.

“So they medicate their parents?” I said, bewildered. “Because they can’t just slow down, or manage their emotions?”

* * *

Sometimes I just park across from her and watch her. I look at the physical, pharmaceutical, and cognitive ravages to her face and neck and the erector set of her bones everywhere.Her right eye and the right half of her mouth droop open more than her left.

It’s as if she wants to jump in the air and hike across someone’s country and cook a meal for twenty, but all she can do, instead, is to sit on the edge of the bed. It’s a compromise between body and spirit.

For the first time ever, she’s now refusing her medical marijuana against nausea.  Adam and I talk about how much certain things make sense or are good for her, in hopes she’ll overhear and understand and be persuaded.

“You used to love your medical marijuana. You were always posting on Facebook and evangelizing about it.” I take a puff from her glass pipe. “Oh, man, I feel less sick already.”

Adam says, “And all the cool kids are doing it. Look, Inge, I’ll do it if you’ll do it.”

We have no evidence this has ever worked.

* * *

She lifts up a red box of tissues and drinks from it.

“Are you thirsty, Mom?”

“Very,” she says, in that slight wheeze.

“I’ve got water right here.”

“It better be water,” she says.

* * *

December 16, 2014

Adam left just after noon.  Lately he had taken to calling her “sweetheart” and “my beautiful Inge”.

* * *

I return from an errand and see a lot of people sitting in the living room with Mom. Bonnie, of course, but now also Peggie, another Bonnie, and a young guy named Trevor. Turns out I’d met Trevor at Peggie’s ranch a few months ago. He was kneeling on the floor next to Mom’s bed, on the emerald couch side, and eventually I noticed that he was crying.

Peggie said to me, “He learned German with your mom, took her cooking classes – they go back.”

Trevor got up to leave soon afterward. He went around to the other side of the bed, which Mom was closer to. He leaned down and hugged her and touched her and my eyes teared up because he was an age I used to be, and he was crying.

Bonnie cried today too. She said she usually holds it together until she’s at home – “I’m a shower crier” – but today had been different. She was also crying when she left this evening. She said she wanted a hug and said something to the effect that I had given her or made her feel something very special in the last few weeks, but I can’t recall what it was. Aunt Christa said, by phone from Germany, that I was “grossartig,” which means, according to Google, magnificent, fabulous, gorgeous, sublime, and whatnot. Fiona had made the call, listened to my update in English, and then given the phone to Christa, who, Fiona said, was having a hard time. She’s watching her family disappear, really. Renate and Mom and Horst all in less than a year. So am I.

* * *

She always wanted to be loved, and she was. I’d like to think she knew it, in the end.

* * *

With about four weeks to go, cancer took her curiosity, and the questions largely ceased.

* * *

I would do this again. For my mother, for others. If there is anything that is God’s work, it’s showering love upon the dying. Love is healing, and the more love, the more healing. Hospice workers are lucky: they get to express love and compassion five days a week. Mother Theresa may have said that if you wanted to stop being depressed or improve your life, you had only to be of service to others. She also said something I think my mother and I both intuitively understood: “Loneliness and the feeling of being unwanted is the most terrible poverty.” And: “The hunger for love is much more difficult to remove than the hunger for bread.”

And this gem: “Let us not be satisfied with just giving money. Money is not enough, money can be got, but they need your hearts to love them. So, spread your love everywhere you go.”

* * *

December 17, 2014

Recently, some of Mom’s friends have taken to telling me they love me. Now that I can actually work, they’re even relieving me at home so I can go to Starbucks for a few hours of work. Bonnie in particular. “Get out of here!” she’ll say. “Go do something.” Yesterday after Trevor left Peggie broke down crying. She said she’d been having a really tough time lately with Mom’s imminent death. (Things have changed so much in the last two months that I can write that matter-of-factly. Before, I’d have been freaked out to contemplate it.) I sat on the couch with her and hugged her close as she let herself cry.

Mom is refusing her medicine again. That’s hard on me, as Adam pointed out to me. I feel like it would be abuse to force it on her, but then she will suffer more without it. Bonnie was more forceful, and got in a milliliter of Ativan.

Mom had apparently nodded yes to whether the chaplain might come, so he came today – really nice guy – and as I showered I realized he was singing “Silent Night”. I had just been thinking of finding the German lyrics of “Stille Nacht” to sing to her. Even before my mother’s health became an issue, I could cry while singing that song by myself. And now it may well be that she will choose Christmas, or Christmas Eve, for her time to leave. I suppose the association makes sense. Candy and I already associate Mom with a special kind of German Christmas.

Ten or so days ago, Mom stopped really getting any sustenance. She would still say she was hungry, but most of the time she’d veto whatever we mentioned or brought out to her. When she did try to eat something, I’d find the forkful or spoonful of food still orbiting her mouth, unswallowed, for quite a while afterward. For the last few days, she has expressed no hunger, and has eaten nothing. When she drank water, she almost always choked a little. For several weeks now she has taken in so little water that I marvel a person can survive. A few ounces a day? Two days ago that changed: she drank more water than in the prior three weeks combined.

She is more likely to become obstreperous, or the new consciousness that used to be Mom’s is, the one demanded of Adam and Inge that she be allowed to leave, threatened to call the police, and even tried to pinch and bite them. On Wednesday night she did the same with me for not hearing what she was saying. “I’m gonna call the police.” And after I couldn’t understand something she’d said: “God, I’m going to a hotel.” I had to laugh.

* * *

She would awaken and mumble something.

“Do you need water?” I’d ask. “To pee?”

“Pee.”

She’d sit up. Adam or I would prepare to help her off the bed.

Then she’d wave us off. “Not now!” or “In a minute.”

She might sit there for half an hour, forty-five minutes, and while she did we couldn’t go anywhere. Questions about whether she was ready, or whether she wanted to go back to bed, were ill-received. I understand that this negativity and restlessness or agitation hits many of the dying across the board, but I have wondered if hers has not followed some of its old courses. The exasperation, the defensiveness and prickliness, the victimhood, the annoyance and even anger when asked a question or given a suggestion.  The little girl who had been told (she once told me) that she was stupid and ugly and no man would ever love her — she was still inside.

“Don’t you touch me!” she said to me, one could call it a snarl, four nights ago, as Adam and I tried to help her out of the bed. I hadn’t heard that particular voice, I think, since I was a kid. It’s not the fullness of her speaking, so I don’t take it personally.

* * *

About two weeks ago, Bonnie said my mother wanted to talk to me. I went to the bedside and she said, “I’ve done a lot of wrong by you.” I said not at all, and that she should forgive herself. “I want you to forgive me,” she said.

“Mom, I have already forgiven you. A long time ago. I just love you, unconditionally.”

Bonnie said her face relaxed then.

* * *

Today, hospice nurse Suzanne told Bonnie, Lynne, and me that she thought Mom had another 48 hours or so. For the last two weeks I’d thought we were 1-2 weeks away, but this news, and the concreteness of an actual date (Saturday morning!), caught me by surprise.

“I thought you said she had three to nine days after her urine output stopped,” I said.

“I know,” she said, “but I’m seeing other things, like all the pain medication she’s needing, and her terminal restlessness and agitation.”

* * *

Bonnie and Lynne and I talked afterward.

“Whenever I imagined how this would go,” I said, “I saw her talking more about death and what would come after, for her and for us. She got that do-not-resuscitate living will a long time ago. She prepared all these other documents and put them in binders. She told us the combination to the safe and the PIN to her bank account.  She told us she wanted to be cremated and have the ashes spread over the Black Canyon. Even a few weeks ago she was concerned about the right people getting her things. But she hasn’t said anything about it lately, nothing about where she’s going or her feelings about it or what I or anyone will do afterward.”

Bonnie agreed. “She just doesn’t want to talk about it at all. It surprises me, too. But she just doesn’t want to go.”

“I don’t know if there’s some conversation I’ll regret not having. But I don’t think so.”

“Cameron,” Bonnie said, “I think everything your mother wanted to say to you she said.”

* * *

I learned that Mom often told her visiting friends, perhaps more than once each, about my having given her a flatscreen TV and a computer and a tablet and an iPhone and, recently, a Samsung phone. “She was so grateful for all that,” Bonnie said.

* * *

“You have taught me a great deal,” Bonnie said.

I looked up at her. “Really?”

“Absolutely. I’ve seen your calm, and your compassion. You showed me that it was okay to laugh and it was okay to cry. And,” she added, referring to a conversation I’d had with my mom about three months ago, “that I could gracefully leave a conversation without having to prove I was right or make someone see sense. I was so impressed when you calmly left the hospital room when you were trying to talk to your mom about things and she was resisting so much.”

“I don’t always do that,” I said. Which was probably an understatement.

“I got in a lot of trouble after you left,” she said. “Your mom looked at me and said, ‘And you! I’m mad at you. You didn’t even stand up for me.’ And I said, ‘Well, I can see where he’s coming from.’”

Bonnie stayed till mid-afternoon. I went to Starbucks for a few hours. Peggie relieved Bonnie. Lynne came over during Bonnie’s stay. Another Bonnie whom I’ve never met has been very helpful and caring since she got here.  She offered to come anytime, day or night. Madeline told me I was always welcome in her home. Bonnie had told me the same.

Peggie read a children’s book that involves heaven (can’t recall title) to Mom. “Are you ready to go, Inge? Do you want to go home?”

Peggie said that Mom nodded. New Bonnie affirmed it.

* * *

When I got back from Starbucks, and saw that Peggie was here and looked so serious and Mom’s gaunt bony face was pointed at the sky and her eyelids haven’t been closing all the way lately, before I knew it I started to cry. Peggie said to sit next to her and gave me a hug.

Still, it’s the aftermath that I’m worried about. I’ve been lonely enough for the past five years of separations and uncertainties and several different places to call home. How will I be afterward, without the original center of the solar system around?

What the master does better than we do is to proceed through uncertainty.

* * *

December 19, 2014 The Last Camino

Mom was mostly unconscious and unresponsive last night, and I could have slept in the bedroom without worry, but with the clock ticking I didn’t want to spend so many hours apart from her. I slept on the couch within arm’s reach of her bed again, getting to sleep sometime after 1a.m.

At about 6:30, when it was still dark, I woke up. I must have heard her in my sleep. The slight gargling in her breathing that we’d heard last night was now loud, ragged. It sounded terrible, the glottal, mucousy gurgling. I could have heard it anywhere in the house.

I raised the head of her bed. I got a sponge on a stick, and three or four times dipped it in water and squeezed it into her mouth. She moved her head slightly when I cleaned her parched lips. Her breaths were shallow and quick. Her hands were hot. Her forehead too. I texted this information to Bonnie, Berle, Peggie, Lynne, and Adam.

Mom was not at all responsive.  I brought out the big guns:  as I watched her face, I cracked all of my knuckles.

Nothing.

It was about ten minutes before it hit me: This sound is what they call the death rattle.

I looked it up to be sure.

A death rattle, known clinically as terminal respiratory secretions . . . is a sound often produced by someone who is near death when fluids such as saliva and bronchial secretions accumulate in the throat and upper chest.

Each description I found added that the sound was often very disturbing to family members, but it was not uncomfortable for the dying.  That all seemed to fit.

Oh, boy, here we go.

* * *

I climbed into the bed next to her, held her hand, kissed her head. Her hand was limp now. Her body like a furnace against my leg. I wept, quietly, unobtrusively, as usual, in case she could still hear and understand anything and worry about me.

For almost forty-eight years she’d been as constant as the sun and moon.

* * *

A text from Peggie. I’ll get dressed and be right over.

Peggie arrived at a quarter after seven. She talked to Mom about her strength, how she’d fought bravely and hard, and now she could go, she could just let go. She read from Psalms. There were a lot of praise the Lords. I wondered if that was too many praise the Lords for Mom. I found the “Do Not Weep at My Grave” poem and read it to Mom. Peggie said she saw tears leave Mom’s eyes.

Bonnie, who goes to work in Grand Junction on Fridays, had texted me, Cameron. I can’t come. I love you both. Please remind her that heart friends go on forever. And that I love her most. But she was here for ten minutes before I saw the text. “I was just called to come here, I had to pay attention.”

By now, Mom’s breathing was barely audible. She seemed much more peaceful now.

We found a German Christmas song on YouTube and played it for her. I played some of the videos I’d taken during the Camino – her singing a German folk song while walking, poles clacking along (here, again, she sings the same song almost exactly 3 years later); the Mourning Tenor of Los Arcos who had so touched her with his three different versions of Ave Maria, sung in a nearly empty church, in honor of his son; the Spanish woman playing the flying-saucer-like hang instrument; and the glorious scene of her spinning round and round in the great plaza of Santiago de Compostela:

Bonnie left and Peggie stayed on, encouraging me to go back to sleep. I wanted to write, but as I lay down on the reddish couch I found I couldn’t keep my eyes open.

* * *

Bonnie from the Plains, as she calls herself, arrived while I was sleeping and, according to Peggie, while Mom and I were both snoring, side by side.

When I awoke, Peggie was gone. Bonnie from the Plains sat on the opposite couch. She had just come back to Montrose from helping her husband, a dentist, do pro bono work for the Sioux tribe on the Standing Rock reservation in South Dakota. She said she had met Mom years ago through Peggie.

Peggie had said a few months ago, “Your mom is like a mother to me. Even though she’s not old enough to be.” Bonnie from the Plains said, “You know, your mom wasn’t that much older than Peggie, but Peggie had lost her mother a long time before and your mother just took her under her wing. That’s just how she was. A beautiful, classy lady.”

* * *

Nurse Suzanne arrived. After her divorce she had given herself the surname of Onelove.

“You know,” she said, “as a traveling nurse, I come into a lot of different families and get dropped into this great intimacy. This has been one of those that reminds me why I do this.”

“What’s different about them?” I asked.

“Some sort of heart connection,” she said. “With Inge, there’s a spiritual connection, and the way she’s like Lady Godiva, always out front, leading, saying to hell with rules that don’t make sense. She’s special. So thank you for sharing her.”

She continued. “One of the biggest gifts I got from Inge is that it’s okay to be normal, and you can still be special. She reminded me of that life lesson.”

Suzanne now checked Mom’s vitals.

“She’s tachy,” said Suzanne, referring to an abnormally fast heartbeat. It was about 110.  “She has a slight fever, which is normal. She’s breathing 28 times a minute. Twelve to twenty is normal breathing.”

Twenty-eight, I thought, was probably closer to her respiration on that first day of climbing over the Pyrenees a little over three years ago.  Almost 20 miles, up and down only, with a pack.

Suzanne took her blood pressure. “It’s 80 over something I can’t hear,” she said.

In the midst of the hubbub, I worked to finish writing this update for the many readers I left hanging in late November. Some have even written me privately or posted in the Teal Warriors Facebook group to ask me what was happening.

I hold her hand or kiss her head and eyelids every so often.

About half an hour ago, she was as responsive as I’ve seen her in a while.  She was conscious of my hug, squeezed my hand.

“I love you so much, Mom.  And I’m so glad I’ll be able to feel your presence every day.  I’ll be okay.  You go home whenever you need to.”  Now I was crying.

It was like one of those dreams you have after someone has died, when they’re alive again, for just a few, bittersweet moments.

Updated as of 5:15p.m., December 19, 2014

Camino Not Chemo

This took much longer to do than anticipated. Every turn and test was either lost or Doctor was out of town and left us hanging without results.

Meanwhile, I had received a new batch of cannabis/hash oil. Three vials to see which one I would respond best to. I took the first syringe and tolerated it well. I noticed that small improvements happened. A wart on my index finger disappeared. Blood clots gone. Whatever type of horrible, painful bowel obstruction that was, it’s nearly gone. Thanks to cannabis. It’s all I take.

Second syringe hash oil was still alright and I started feeling hungry. Great feeling. By now, I have lost nearly 30 lbs. A great downward, scary spiral. Just the mere ‘thought’ of food made me ill.  However, I know what happens once you can’t eat. So, I would cook these great, tasty bone broths and I would sip out of a cup. The heat of the broth felt so nourishing, especially in the middle of the night.

Now, it was time for the third syringe with cannabis. I took the first ‘grain of rice size’ and felt just a momentary ‘burning’ but then it was O.K.  When I woke up around midnight with the same rollercoaster spasms, I took the prepared hash oil, which I had near my bed. Barely had landed in my stomach, when immediately I became so very nauseous and the feeling of hell fire burning me alive in my stomach!! I vomited all over myself, the bed and was so sick I thought I may have to go to the Emergency room. By the time I changed my bed, got into a bath (warm, not hot!) and went back to bed, I was totally exhausted, shaking and crying.

I was very upset with this batch. THEY FORGOT TO BURN THE ALCOHOL OFF!! That is nearly 95% PROOF that hit my stomach full force AND without food.

Lost so much valuable time just trying to figure out what type of strain and oil to use. How much of it to use? With food? or not? No one to ask all these questions. What if people cannot take 1 gramm per day? Will it still perform? Meanwhile we had the new CT scan. Finally had it interpreted. I may have had a ‘mis-diagnosis’. I may NOT have Ovarian cancer, which was treated with a non-working chemo for nearly 1 year. But, instead I have lung and liver cancer. (Oh, still the tumor on the aorta too. It’s been there so long, I tend to forget.)

At least I can eat. I am starting to ‘think’ about food again. I wonder what people do, that don’t cook ? Or know what to eat? Had friends over yesterday and cooked ‘crackling pork roast, potatoe balls, Sauerkraut and mixed salads. I ate 1 potato ball with sauce. MMM. I guess comfort foods it is.

The CA 125 (which stands for ‘ovarian’ may not be the proper test anymore either. Right back to where I was, nearly 4 years ago. After diagnosis, going to Europe. I still have my frequent flyer mile ticket and am planning going this spring. As I said to my oncologist ‘come hell or high water.’ Want to celebrate my 70th birthday with whatever family I have left, and old school friends.

When I had my INR finger stick to determine how well my blood was running (clots) my local doc was soo amazed how quickly this had healed. I had questioned the nurse to take less of the Warfarin but she argued and insisted. So, for another week I took the strong dose only to measure 8.6 which is WAY too fast.

I am losing energy. This is getting so very long. Friends are still close and caring. Some of my family, not so much. Hurts but ‘it is, what it is’.

So, for now I feel so very much improved and the thought of even having to go onto an ‘Oral chemo’ just really has me in a ‘flight mode’.

Cameron still having to do all the hard stuff. I can’t even begin to imagine, how it would be or where I’d be, if he were not helping me. So, this ‘crap shoot’ keeps going and we’ll see what comes next.

 

Fiesta–Test results–new malady

We sure packed a lot of activities into the last few weeks. Filled with happy anticipation to see our camino friends again, I drove Cameron’s old Land Rover to Grand Junction to pick up Julio, Marie Anne and a little later, Cameron as well.

I’d bought a few flowers to greet MarieAnne and a bottle of Rioja wine (Bilboa) for Julio.

When I entered the hotel, they were already seated in the lobby, waiting. A big, cheery hello with a few tears from Marie Anne. They had visited New York for 4 days, then came by Amtrack to Grand Junction. Julio told me that MarieAnne, while looking out the window, kept saying ‘so big, so big.’

We stopped at a Diner and had a genuine American breakfast. Then it was time to pick up Cameron. What a happy  reunion all around. Carrie had seen them the day before and spend a few wonderful hours touring the Monument.

Next morning after breakfast we took them to Ouray and Box Canyon. Amazing how that water rushes and is pounding with great force through the hole in the rock that took millions of years to create. They were duly impressed.

Saturday morning, they were helping to set up the yard and cleaning, etc. for the Fiesta. Carrie came with her sister and her dad. Their mom came later with marvelous Truffels.

Pretty soon, all guests had arrived and we introduced our guest around, mostly to people that had read the blog and had many questions for both.

Sunday, we went to the Black Canyon and also had a picnic. Cameron decided that they should see The Arches in Utah’s canyonland. They took off Monday, while I took care of things here and also had several blood tests and an up coming CT scan to determine, whether there has been any growth.

Blood test results were great. Cancer markers had not gone up. Stable. On May 2nd, we all drove to Grand Junction for CT scan and an appoinment with oncologist afterward.

Dr. M. showed us the scan and was reasonably sure that there too, was no sign of growth. BIG exhale for me. I did tell her about the ‘new’ pain in my left, lower pelvis. I thought and believed that I had a kidney stone(s). After viewing the scan, she said that Radiologist pointed out some small stones in the the Urethra. Thus, the horriffic pain. I told her, that I was afraid turning into a Junkie trying to stay on top of this pain. I am not going to live like this, is what I said. I figured out the best way to medicate: 1 Ibuprofen (600 mg, followed 45 min later by 1/2 of Morphine (10 mg). I nearly cried with relief when the pain finally stopped. I also came down with a unpleasant chest cold. This constant pain is taking a big chunk out of my ‘cheerfulness’ and up-beat, positivity, etc. These pills are making me not only dizzy but weepy. I’m going to try a brownie, laced with Marijuana. No nightmares and bad side effects.

Well, smiled Dr. M. looks like you have another 3 mos before we check.  Keep up what you’re doing. Although I had not been doing that well and kept falling ‘off the wagon’ with eating all sorts of ‘regular’ food. But, now I’m back on it. I don’t feel very energetic when I don’t get my ‘greens’. She said, I want you to think about taking ‘Tamoxifen’. It’s an oral chemo pill. You can’t just keep having this cancer and even though, you’re doing well,  should think about this option. I want to talk to you about side effects, when the time comes.

Well! I did check on those side effects: Stroke, peritoneal/ vaginal cancer, and a host of other possibilities. How can this be called a ‘life saving’ med??

I have 3 months to do something and try to get the numbers down, the tumor reduced.

My Acupuncturist was ordering herbs to diminish stones. Now, I must call and cancel. I wonder if Dr. B. could be wrong? I’m just stunned.

Those few days were over too quickly and Julo and MarieAnne had to leave. They couldn’t say enough about wonderful, colorful Colorado and awesome Utah. We were marveling at the fact that last year, in May, none of us knew each other and yet, here we were, darn good buddies and an experience that has bonded us for life.

Friday, I had some nice friends here for lunch from Utah.

The Aunties came from Rangely for 2 days after, so we still had nice company. Then, they too were gone and took Cameron to the airport. Wow. The house was still and quiet. Everyone has abandoned me. I wandered through the rooms and not even the mouse is back.

I’ve finished my medicine wheel garden. Not all the planting as it takes a lot of plants (money) but I have time. When I checked on a peace pole, the lady offered to come with the Indian Society Members to perform a ceremony. No charge. I am so tickled.

I had an appointment with Urologist Dr. B. whom I had been to a few years ago. I couldn’t take any meds before driving 1 hr and 20 min. By the time I got there, I was in agony. The usual bloodpressure, vitals were taken. Dr. B. came in and after the cordials he looked at the CT scan and said that there were NO stones in the urethra. Only 2 small ones in the right kidney but they could easily get out if needed to. So? I asked. What is this pain? Classic symptoms of reduced urine flow, horrible, prolonged pain. Tiny, pink droplets. That does not mean stones? That’s right, he said. Well, I wanted to know, ‘WHAT is it?”

” I don’t know,’ he says. You need to go back to Dr. M. and find out where this is coming from. I can’t believe it! Back to square one! Where do I go? Whom do I see?

Last night, as I woke with pain again, I wondered whether this could be caused by scar tissue? I had this before, 10 years ago on my right side. Left over from a pediatric Ruptured Appendix surgery. These now, could be caused from the debulking surgery from Ovarian Cancer/Hysterectomy

I can feel the meds taking hold and numbing my brain and thoughts. I better stop before all sorts of nonsense appears.

 

On Auschwitz and Cancer

For at least two weeks I have had in mind a post that addresses Mom’s PET scan and the expectations that so many people have about what will happen to her cancer now that she has been on the Camino.  I discern these expectations in what people say to Mom, in her telling me, a week ago, that she felt “pressure”, and in our tribe’s utter inability to stop telling ourselves stories . . .

But for at least two weeks, I have not found myself writing anything.  Why that has been so could justify its own essay.  It wasn’t until I read Mom’s “Cheers and Kindness” post of this morning (about her experience with her friendly townspeople and her wait for the results of the PET scan), and found myself crying at the end, that I began to write this post.  I don’t know where it’s going, but I begin anyway.  “I can’t go on, I’ll go on,” as my master and hero Samuel Beckett once had a nameless character say.

Humans see patterns in everything.  Hypnotize a person (as researchers did in a now famous set of experiments) and tell him to get up from his chair and walk to stand by a window, and when you wake him up and ask him why he is standing by the window, he will say, for example, “There was a cold draft, and I was shutting the window.”  Of course this is not true, but we now know that the brain searches relentlessly for explanations of everything it does not understand or does not wish to grapple with.

Not so long ago, we prayed to the sun to intervene

Just today I opened The New Yorker to read “It was an article of faith among the [Libyan] rebels that Qaddafi had regularly used magic to prop up his long reign.  What other explanation could there be?”  Lacking explanation, man often turns to the supernatural.

Stories are easiest to see in beliefs about politics and religion — two areas that, not coincidentally, wise people know it’s best not to argue about.  That’s because such beliefs are usually not arrived at by reason but by responses to emotion, and it’s pointless to argue with conclusions reached by emotion.  Today I saw one writer’s interpretation of New York City’s shutdown of Occupy Wall Street, as he looked at the site that once housed the 5000 books of the Occupy Wall Street Library:

What a picture it would be . . . of police in riot gear gathering boxes of donated books and loading them into garbage trucks. A perfect metaphor for what appears to be the intention of last night’s raid: destroying the body of knowledge that had been collected by a movement just two months old . . .

If you want to spot tendentious, made-up belief systems, look for words like “appears to be,” as in “the contents of another person’s mind appear to be an intention to destroy knowledge.”  A great many marriages founder on this one powerful impulse, that of imagining we know the meaning in another person’s mind.  All storytelling arises from man’s wrestling with painful sensations of ignorance and uncertainty — which is fear.  The results of this wrestling, this agon, we call myth, religion, fiction, cinema, psychology, ideology, doctrine, dogma.

So we see a woman walk across Spain on (and in) a dream and we

Mom displays good food on the Camino

continue the story.  She has cancer, right?  She wants it to go away, right?  And look at all that bravery, all that effort!  Look what a story so far, with all the blog posts illustrating the triumph of the human spirit!  Why, we’ve even got her in high-definition video!

It’s a story fit for the movies!

What is left behind

Except for one thing, we think:  we don’t have our ending yet.  As the writer of the Gospel of Matthew well knew, adding, as he did, the all-important Resurrection to Mark’s far more abrupt ending*, there can be no meaning without a proper ending.  And the only acceptable ending to this fairytale is, of course, that somehow, in magical ways we don’t need to understand but need to believe in, the walk across Spain – the exercise, the sun, the intention, the bravery, the purpose, God – cured the cancer.  I would guess that nearly every reader of this blog will acknowledge in herself this secret hope, this small buried voice whose sister whispered in my mother’s head as she approached the Cruz de Ferro with the earlier PET scan, with the cancer, she hoped somehow to leave behind.

I don’t need to understand how it can happen, we think, but I would love to see a fairytale ending.  I’d love to see God choose to play a role in this drama and give a woman her just dessert.

This is a way of thinking pilgrims were familiar with a thousand years ago:  surely if I go to all this effort, God will reward me.  The medieval Catholic Church validated this thinking, handing out “indulgences”, in its role as God’s mouthpiece on earth, to people who made some kind of effort – the Camino pilgrims, say, or the people, both wealthy and poor, who got karma credits with God for handing over their money to the Church.

Setting aside the Church’s confusion of money with divine will (and itself with divinity), all of this relies on belief in an intercessionary God — that is, a God who will intercede, or intervene, in human affairs, if we simply do something noticeable enough to catch “His” attention (a God who intervenes in human affairs is nothing if not person-like).

I would like to believe such a God exists, but then if such a God did exist, and either set in motion or stood by and did nothing for the shot, gassed, and hung-by-their-tongues Jews of the Shoah, or the Rwandans, or the victims of Stalin, Mao, and Pol Pot, I would find Him unworthy of the barest worship.  Either he is weak beyond imagining, or he is capable of ending unbearable suffering but lacks all compassion.

It is this God who is said to have died in the concentration camp at Auschwitz, and for people who study history and its lessons there is no resurrecting him.  Can there be a kind of divinity who intervenes in the cancers of mothers who do pilgrimages but ignores the cries of children in gas chambers?  I do not think so.  Not that kind, by that definition.

This is not to say divinity, or a consciousness that pervades the universe, does not exist.  It is only to say that I’m not able to believe there is a person-like entity who intervenes in human affairs.

If Mom’s cancer does not reappear on her PET scan, there are a number of possible reasons for it, from what science now tells us of the power of the human mind (in science’s belated validation of prayer and meditation) to what we know love and purpose can do for the human immune system.

I create meaning and emotion just by inserting an image in a particular place

Love and purpose.  Immune system.  For those who don’t credit an intercessionary God, these are the building blocks of their hope, vague as it may be:  Inge did that amazing walk, such great purpose, we all love her, we hope her cancer goes away now.

I do too.  And I too don’t care how it happens or whether I could ever explain it.  My mind bends toward the romantic and the idealistic as much as the next person’s.

But I have worried since the first moment Mom mentioned doing this trip that it would begin to work on her mind, whispering to her of salvation, giving her a hope — so powerful in the agon with dis-ease — that might turn on her if the outcome to which she had inevitably grown attached did not come about.  I have worried for many months about us measuring the success of the trip, or Mom’s chances of survival, by the same meaningless yardstick, the PET scan of November 14.  (See the end of my post a day before we reached the Cruz de Ferro, when Mom voiced aloud what until then had only been the whispers of going to the cross and leaving her cancer behind).

But the PET scan is meaningless, in the sense that it neither signals an objective truth — someone will or will not die — nor has within it a pre-fabricated storyline of what must happen next — of what it means.  We create the storyline.  Yesterday’s PET scan is just

Another Day on the Camino

another day on the camino, and just as there were days before it that did not speak of life or death, there will now come days after it that are silent on the matter.  The PET scan is just data; we supply the meaning of it.

Mom is powerful precisely because she gets to choose what meaning to assign the PET scan.  Doctors and others will look at a certain scan and say, “This is great!”  They will look at different results and say, “Oh, oh, my, this is unfortunate.”  They are, however, simply speaking from their own, inevitably blinkered, system of belief.

Mom can decide what storyline she will believe in, and as one of my favorite Taoist stories shows, her storyline doesn’t have to grasping for meaning prematurely.

Sometimes a horse is just a horse, of course

There was an old farmer who had worked his land for many years.  One day his horse ran away.  His neighbors heard the news and ran to see him.

“Such bad luck!” they said.

“We’ll see,” said the farmer.

The next day, the horse came back, bringing with it three wild horses.

“How wonderful!” the neighbors said.

“We’ll see,” said the farmer.

The next day, the farmer’s son tried to ride one of the wild horses, was thrown, and broke his leg.

Here came the neighbors.

“What a disaster!” they said, patting the farmer on the back.  “Your fields will rot if he can’t work the farm.”

“We’ll see,” said the farmer.

A day later, the emperor’s army recruiters passed through the village to draft young men into the army.  They saw that the farmer’s son had a broken leg, and they passed him by.

The neighbors, again.

“Such good fortune!” they said.

“We’ll see,” said the farmer.

All this is to say that the Lord moves in ways mysterious, not ways we can divine in our desperate interpretations of this event and that . . . In the absence of knowing, then, what we’ll see, we can

Give it a try -- supply your own caption

only let go of the need to know, which sometimes comes in the form of patience and other times forgiveness, and cultivate those states of mind — love, compassion, positivity — that lead to healing.

The “unfortunate” PET scan of May has unfolded into some of the greatest experiences of Mom’s life, not to mention mine, Carrie’s, and many others’.  Who, then, will claim to know that yesterday’s PET scan can be “bad news”?

That camino continues, and we’ll all be walking with Mom as she walks it.

 

* The original Mark ends with the women fleeing from the empty tomb, and saying “nothing to anyone, because they were afraid.”  (How the writer of Mark knew what they saw when they said nothing to anyone is another story.)  In Mark, there is no Resurrection, and without the decades-later additions of Matthew, Luke, and John, Christianity as we know it would not exist.

Twilight Zone

Over the last few days, since my CA-125 bloodtest, I’ve been wondering about the result. Not stressing, more like being very curious.

Yesterday was doctor’s appointment. He wanted to know about my camino hike and said what a tremendous accomplishment that was. Then he showed me the paper with result, which was high. Another few points added to the fear scale.

I said, “Oh this just shows that there is more sugar in my blood.”  

He just smiled but didn’t reply. Checked my lungs, which were clear. He noticed my weight and said I’d lost 8 pounds since May. I said I would hope so as I’d just walked nearly 500 miles. But, back to discussion as to what treatment.

I told him I did not want chemo. Should be the very last choice. He said that in his opinion I should have surgery. When I reminded him that the Denver specialist we consulted did not want to touch me without chemo, he assured me that we could find someone else. He was concerned about possible “seed pods” in the abdomen. He explained that P.E.T can’t “see” those and if they’d turned cancerous, I would be in a difficult place. Only through surgery could they look around and see other areas. Of course, this surgery would not be without dangers. The same is true, though, with Cyberknife or any other.

I asked if he would go “outside the box” with me and help me with alternate treatments. I still have about $500 worth of Iscador and other holistic meds I’d brought from Germany, and which have to be injected but ONLY by a Physician. He said he knew of 2 holistic docs in Ridgway. I said O.K. we’ll wait until P.E.T results and then I need to do something quickly. He said:  “Inge, you really need to. This is cancer we’re dealing with.”

I told him that chemo had not done too well for my friend Phyllis, who died while I was on the camino. Different cancer but same effect, as for so many.

My blood pressure was up but I’d imagine it was due to anxiety. After my walk, it had dropped 10 points.

I’m scared but want to have ONE more chance before pumping poision or radiation inside and kill off half my cells and then experience those side effects. Once this is done, any holistic approach would be extremely difficult to remedy the situation. Of course, holistic means also very expensive.

I am still researching for places which have a different approach. There are quite a few choices.

I needed to breath and I needed to walk. I made a quick salad, a small sandwich, took a bottle of water, grabbed my poles, and drove up to the Black Canyon.

We’d had a week of rain, snow, gray and I couldn’t walk a lot. I drove in and parked my car. Snow-covered brush and canyon walls. Beautiful view, sun, and only a gentle breeze. I was the only person. I took my day pack, which was astoundingly light, my poles, and walked. I noticed soon that where I would’ve been slowing down or was out of breath, previously, after all, this is 10,000 feet. I just plowed through. It felt so good to just walk. Then, the familiar click-clack of my poles. Stillness, peace.  I saw tracks in the snow from all sorts of wildlife. Rabbits and large tracks, probably elk.

I thought back to just a couple of months ago, when I walked and wondered what the camino would be like. Now, I was back looking around and noticing how similar the view and the absence of noise. I’d also noticed that I clipped that 1.3 miles in under 25 minutes.

I stopped at the picnic bench, brushed off the snow and had my lunch , I looked around  and enjoyed the peacefulness. I walked up to the edge of the cliff and looked down. The Gunnison river was like a small glittering ribbon. The walls of the canyon looked like they had been dusted with powedered sugar. It is so very beautiful there.

I didn’t come home with any answers to the decision I have to make but it sure made me more peaceful. I won’t be able to go up there when it snows again as I won’t have the proper boots and the terrain will be too difficult to walk. But, there are plenty of nice trails close to town.

Now, meanwhile, waiting for P.E.T scan and those results. That’s the BIGGIE.

 

Ode to feet

During our daily camino walk and climbing as well as blisters and other foot related maladies that I observed in other people, I was thinking about feet.

How unappreciative we usually are of our feet and the miracle they perform without us giving it a second thought. We spend a lot of money on hair, make up, nails. O.K. Some people have pedicures. I had my first one only a couple of months ago.

Usually, we just put on socks, shoes and run off. The first time I thought how very grateful I was for my feet was 2 years ago. One morning, while walking into the kitchen, I felt a sudden, sharp pain. I cried out and looked down what I’d stepped on. There was nothing. Puzzled, I looked at my right heel, sure that there would be a glass shard embedded. Nothing. The pain continued with each step and was so bad that I tried walking on tip toe.

I figured I probably pulled some muscle or small ligament and it would disappear after a few days. Well, it didn’t. I hobbled around doing my chores. I went on errands with the car and then hobbled into the store. I really have a high pain tolerance but this was getting worse. I had to stop walking. I had to stop volunteering at the soup kitchen, where I’d been chef once a week for 3+ months.

I took Ibuprofen, Tylenol, the usual. I was stuck in the house and getting depressed. I kept saying to my friends, ‘If I can’t walk anymore, they may as well shoot me.’ No one could tell me what the matter was. I gained weight for lack of walking. One day, I put the symptoms on Web MD. There was this odd name: Plantar’s Fasciitis. Now, I had a name but the prognosis was not very encouraging. I asked around and found a very capable therapist. For a month I went there and had electro-therapy.

While laying there, with nothing to do, for an hour, I talked. Poor guy had no choice . I’m glad to say that he and his wife became dear friends. Shortly after that, I changed my lifestyle due to cancer.

If someone would’ve said to me, a few years ago that what I was putting my mouth was wrong, I would’ve scoffed at them. I mean, I selected my vegetables carefully, I did not eat fast food, had no cokes or sweet tea, I didn’t even eat a lot but still had gained weight.

Well. Then when I did all that research on cancer and other immune illnesses, a light bulb came on. (Ten years prior, when I had cancer, I had eaten better and healthier but after my chemo and tests I thought ‘now, it’s gone’ and went back to my meat, sauces and oil/butter cooked foods.

It wasn’t long after I converted to Vegan, that a host of problems disappeared. Plantar’s Fasciitis has not returned.

I was absolutely certain that once people saw what it did for me, they’d be just so happy. They’d immediately copy it. (Some did.) Others were so full of resistance that I had to shut up about it.  Others tried it for a little while and because it’s not easy, in the beginning, they stopped, or, they changed it without the getting the great results. That was huge surprise and it continues to amaze me how people just want to have their crap (and eat it too.)

But, when I think of what my FEET accomplished I feel so very happy and grateful that something made me listen and change. I am in awe, that they carried me these hundreds of miles without a whimper. (The blisters don’t count.) I treat my feet much better now. I don’t need expensive pedicures.

Days on the Camino, What I Miss (Part II), and a Secret to Happiness

I was married, briefly.  The nature channels tell me there are penguins with longer relationships.

Video of Mom at the Cathedral of Santiago

Last kilometers into Santiago

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ORDINARY MAGIC

I was married, briefly.  The nature channels tell me there are penguins with longer relationships.

Read Our Story

The ultimate Camino de Santiago Journey

By the time a judge brought down the curtain, my mother and I were six thousand miles away, standing at a waystation on a yellow-arrowed path, like characters in some 21st century update to the Wizard of Oz.  My mother wanted a cure for her cancer, or at least a break from “all the cutting and poison”, as she put it.  I hadn’t believed there were any answers for my uncertainties high on the wild-dog-infested and wind-swept spine of a mountain range in northern Spain, so I had sort of convinced myself I wanted nothing.

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Inge in Bilbao, Spain, days before starting the Camino de Santiago

NEW ADVENTURE

I stood at the foot of a high rubbled mound. I was holding my new Nikon SLR, which I’d just bought from Costco via the rationale of this very trip. The video was on: Mom had talked about this moment for months, and I am nothing if not a catcher, or perhaps I mean a chaser, of moments. She was picking her way up the mound, through the powdery gray and white rocks. My fifteen-year-old second-cousin, Carrie, had abandoned her massive backpack and was watching the scene from my left. In a field to my right an older man, very tall, sturdy boots, backpack, was weeping.

Camino de Santiago Cruz de Ferro
Offerings left behind at the Camino de Santiago’s Cruz de Ferro

The mound was pierced at its summit by a thirty-foot-tall oak post, about as big around as a telephone pole. The very top of the post was fitted with an iron cap, like the sort of hat an English bulldog might wear, if an English bulldog had scored an audience with the Queen. For a structure with the grand appellation of El Cruz de Ferro, an old Spanish-Latin term that means Cross of Iron, the cap supported an almost comically tiny iron cross whose three free arms ended in fleurs-de-lis. For thousands of years, some version of the Cruz de Ferro had spied on countless pilgrims – first Pagan, later Catholic, now mostly Pagan again – as they formed meaning out of this very waystation.

For thousands of years a mound of rocks marked the summit of this mountain range. A million pilgrims before us had built up the mound with hand-placed relics from their own private rituals of letting go: of anger, of grief, of resentment, of illness – letting go even of the fear of death. Because that is what people do on pilgrimages, of any kind, whether they mean to or not. They let go. That’s what the verb to forgive means. To forgive others, and, harder yet, to forgive oneself. Jesus was telling us what he knew about forgiveness, but the bastards killed him before he could show us how to forgive ourselves.

Sign up – or watch the new Camino movies on OrdinaryMagicBook.com!

An ancient tradition held that pilgrims should bring to the Cruz, from their own homes, a small stone and a more personal item, and to leave them behind at the Cross. My mother was now placing, among the rocks, a small stone she’d carried from an ancient canyon near her house in Colorado. Previous pilgrims had also brought and left behind other, more telling things. A tube of lipstick. A postcard of Bruges, scrawled in a woman’s hand. Folded pieces of paper and fragments of words in Spanish and English, German and Dutch, Korean and Basque. Underwear that raised certain questions. A Matchbox car that looked to my inner-nine-year-old’s eye like a ’68 Corvette, give or take two years. A toy soldier – missing a leg, poor bastard – and the half-eaten cookie on which he’d been subsisting among the pebbles.

On the wooden pole itself I could make out a tacked-up orange baseball cap and a clip-less biking pedal, a gourd on a string, a black-and-white photo of a European peasant family, circa 1930s, a 1970s photo of a boy, in a shirt with blue stripes, holding a Bible, a pre-printed fortune cookie’s fortune: Do not throw the butts into the urinal, for they are subtle, and quick to anger. I saw a Prada label, an AC Milan futbol jersey, and a broken pair of cheap sunglasses. A German pilgrim had erected a small German flag among the rocks. Not to be outdone, so had a Belgian. Or vice versa, let’s not start another war.

My mother, still with her back to my cousin and me, had reached the top of the mound. The Iron Cross now loomed over her, standing stoutly in the wind. She bowed her head and pulled her second, more personal offering from a pocket in her field jacket. She cupped it with both hands and held it over her head, a modest proposal to the cosmos about what she should be allowed to let go of. When I saw her shoulders start to shake I began to cry, too, but quietly, because I was the expedition videographer, not to mention its chief biographer, photographer, legal counsel, and practicing podiatrist.

I handed the camera to Carrie and went to join my mother.
And now the book, Ordinary Magic: Promises I Made to My Mother Through Life, Illness, and a Very Long Walk is finally here!

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SAM_1968

Just When You Thought It Was Over: Portugal

Read Our Story

ORDINARY MAGIC

I was married, briefly.  The nature channels tell me there are penguins with longer relationships.

Read Our Story

The ultimate Camino de Santiago Journey

By the time a judge brought down the curtain, my mother and I were six thousand miles away, standing at a waystation on a yellow-arrowed path, like characters in some 21st century update to the Wizard of Oz.  My mother wanted a cure for her cancer, or at least a break from “all the cutting and poison”, as she put it.  I hadn’t believed there were any answers for my uncertainties high on the wild-dog-infested and wind-swept spine of a mountain range in northern Spain, so I had sort of convinced myself I wanted nothing.

blockuote-white.png
Inge in Bilbao, Spain, days before starting the Camino de Santiago

NEW ADVENTURE

I stood at the foot of a high rubbled mound. I was holding my new Nikon SLR, which I’d just bought from Costco via the rationale of this very trip. The video was on: Mom had talked about this moment for months, and I am nothing if not a catcher, or perhaps I mean a chaser, of moments. She was picking her way up the mound, through the powdery gray and white rocks. My fifteen-year-old second-cousin, Carrie, had abandoned her massive backpack and was watching the scene from my left. In a field to my right an older man, very tall, sturdy boots, backpack, was weeping.

Camino de Santiago Cruz de Ferro
Offerings left behind at the Camino de Santiago’s Cruz de Ferro

The mound was pierced at its summit by a thirty-foot-tall oak post, about as big around as a telephone pole. The very top of the post was fitted with an iron cap, like the sort of hat an English bulldog might wear, if an English bulldog had scored an audience with the Queen. For a structure with the grand appellation of El Cruz de Ferro, an old Spanish-Latin term that means Cross of Iron, the cap supported an almost comically tiny iron cross whose three free arms ended in fleurs-de-lis. For thousands of years, some version of the Cruz de Ferro had spied on countless pilgrims – first Pagan, later Catholic, now mostly Pagan again – as they formed meaning out of this very waystation.

For thousands of years a mound of rocks marked the summit of this mountain range. A million pilgrims before us had built up the mound with hand-placed relics from their own private rituals of letting go: of anger, of grief, of resentment, of illness – letting go even of the fear of death. Because that is what people do on pilgrimages, of any kind, whether they mean to or not. They let go. That’s what the verb to forgive means. To forgive others, and, harder yet, to forgive oneself. Jesus was telling us what he knew about forgiveness, but the bastards killed him before he could show us how to forgive ourselves.

Sign up – or watch the new Camino movies on OrdinaryMagicBook.com!

An ancient tradition held that pilgrims should bring to the Cruz, from their own homes, a small stone and a more personal item, and to leave them behind at the Cross. My mother was now placing, among the rocks, a small stone she’d carried from an ancient canyon near her house in Colorado. Previous pilgrims had also brought and left behind other, more telling things. A tube of lipstick. A postcard of Bruges, scrawled in a woman’s hand. Folded pieces of paper and fragments of words in Spanish and English, German and Dutch, Korean and Basque. Underwear that raised certain questions. A Matchbox car that looked to my inner-nine-year-old’s eye like a ’68 Corvette, give or take two years. A toy soldier – missing a leg, poor bastard – and the half-eaten cookie on which he’d been subsisting among the pebbles.

On the wooden pole itself I could make out a tacked-up orange baseball cap and a clip-less biking pedal, a gourd on a string, a black-and-white photo of a European peasant family, circa 1930s, a 1970s photo of a boy, in a shirt with blue stripes, holding a Bible, a pre-printed fortune cookie’s fortune: Do not throw the butts into the urinal, for they are subtle, and quick to anger. I saw a Prada label, an AC Milan futbol jersey, and a broken pair of cheap sunglasses. A German pilgrim had erected a small German flag among the rocks. Not to be outdone, so had a Belgian. Or vice versa, let’s not start another war.

My mother, still with her back to my cousin and me, had reached the top of the mound. The Iron Cross now loomed over her, standing stoutly in the wind. She bowed her head and pulled her second, more personal offering from a pocket in her field jacket. She cupped it with both hands and held it over her head, a modest proposal to the cosmos about what she should be allowed to let go of. When I saw her shoulders start to shake I began to cry, too, but quietly, because I was the expedition videographer, not to mention its chief biographer, photographer, legal counsel, and practicing podiatrist.

I handed the camera to Carrie and went to join my mother.
And now the book, Ordinary Magic: Promises I Made to My Mother Through Life, Illness, and a Very Long Walk is finally here!

100_1652
SAM_1968

The End of This Way

Supporting

DSC_0395 (1)
” Inge’s most loving embrace. Reuniting with a fellow pilgrim “

Supporting Treatment

Inge is a fighter. She beat cancer after grueling surgeries and chemotherapy 11 years ago, and she walked nearly 500 miles across Spain, in late 2011, in part because she hoped the returning cancer might just go away on its own. But the Emperor of All Maladies, as it’s been called, is still with her.

She’s been sent to test after test, and there are probably more tests, and treatments, to come.  We’ve been asked for an easier way for her friends and supporters to help out with the expenses, so here we invite anyone who has been touched by her or her story either to (1) buy the amazing book True History of the Camino de Santiago, written by Inge’s son, Cameron, or (2) donate any amount you choose toward her treatment. Subscribe with your email, above right, to watch Inge’s progress.

See what the True History of the Camino de Santiago book is all about: www.TrueHistoryCaminodeSantiago.com.

Donate:

 

Below are two little movies we made of Inge on the Camino de Santiago. We think they show her passionate, fighting spirit quite well.

Watch Inge Symbolically Leaving Her Cancer at the Iron Cross

In Santiago at Last: How She’ll Look Once She Beats the Emperor Again!

You can donate any amount you wish. Buen Camino!

Next to Last Day: Arzúa to Pedrouzo

About

ABOUT US

In early 2001, Mom (Inge) was diagnosed with Stage 3 ovarian cancer.  She had surgery and then grueling chemotherapy.  Already a gourmet chef, she changed the food she bought and how she cooked it.  And she held off the cancer for a decade.

In around May 2010, the periodic tests she underwent revealed three new growths in her pelvis, lung, and neck.  She responded by even more radically altering her diet, lost fifty pounds, and, six months later, saw one growth disappear and another grow smaller.  One stayed the same.  In July 2011, she had the tumor in her lung removed; a biopsy showed it had shrunk yet again, from 12 to 9 millimeters, but that it was cancerous.

In the weeks before her surgery, though, Inge had decided she wanted to walk the Camino de Santiago, in northern Spain.  She began training on the trails around the Black Canyon, and convinced her son, Cameron, to go to Spain with her.

Inge was born in Erlangen, Germany, in 1944, and, after stints as a governess in Bavaria and England, as a student at the Cordon Bleu School of Cooking, and as a flight attendant in New York City, she emigrated to the United States, in 1963.  She now lives in Montrose, Colorado.

Screenshot 2025-07-01 200225

CAMERON

Cameron is a writer (currently awaiting publication by Random House of a work co-written with his former wife), founder of career coachinglawyer coaching, and attorney recruiting firms, Internet entrepreneur, and recovering attorney. He’s an avid skier and hiker.

Quick jump to Cameron’s posts.

Notes from Kilometer 18, Give or Take

Read Our Story

ORDINARY MAGIC

I was married, briefly.  The nature channels tell me there are penguins with longer relationships.

Read Our Story

The ultimate Camino de Santiago Journey

By the time a judge brought down the curtain, my mother and I were six thousand miles away, standing at a waystation on a yellow-arrowed path, like characters in some 21st century update to the Wizard of Oz.  My mother wanted a cure for her cancer, or at least a break from “all the cutting and poison”, as she put it.  I hadn’t believed there were any answers for my uncertainties high on the wild-dog-infested and wind-swept spine of a mountain range in northern Spain, so I had sort of convinced myself I wanted nothing.

blockuote-white.png
Inge in Bilbao, Spain, days before starting the Camino de Santiago

NEW ADVENTURE

I stood at the foot of a high rubbled mound. I was holding my new Nikon SLR, which I’d just bought from Costco via the rationale of this very trip. The video was on: Mom had talked about this moment for months, and I am nothing if not a catcher, or perhaps I mean a chaser, of moments. She was picking her way up the mound, through the powdery gray and white rocks. My fifteen-year-old second-cousin, Carrie, had abandoned her massive backpack and was watching the scene from my left. In a field to my right an older man, very tall, sturdy boots, backpack, was weeping.

Camino de Santiago Cruz de Ferro
Offerings left behind at the Camino de Santiago’s Cruz de Ferro

The mound was pierced at its summit by a thirty-foot-tall oak post, about as big around as a telephone pole. The very top of the post was fitted with an iron cap, like the sort of hat an English bulldog might wear, if an English bulldog had scored an audience with the Queen. For a structure with the grand appellation of El Cruz de Ferro, an old Spanish-Latin term that means Cross of Iron, the cap supported an almost comically tiny iron cross whose three free arms ended in fleurs-de-lis. For thousands of years, some version of the Cruz de Ferro had spied on countless pilgrims – first Pagan, later Catholic, now mostly Pagan again – as they formed meaning out of this very waystation.

For thousands of years a mound of rocks marked the summit of this mountain range. A million pilgrims before us had built up the mound with hand-placed relics from their own private rituals of letting go: of anger, of grief, of resentment, of illness – letting go even of the fear of death. Because that is what people do on pilgrimages, of any kind, whether they mean to or not. They let go. That’s what the verb to forgive means. To forgive others, and, harder yet, to forgive oneself. Jesus was telling us what he knew about forgiveness, but the bastards killed him before he could show us how to forgive ourselves.

Sign up – or watch the new Camino movies on OrdinaryMagicBook.com!

An ancient tradition held that pilgrims should bring to the Cruz, from their own homes, a small stone and a more personal item, and to leave them behind at the Cross. My mother was now placing, among the rocks, a small stone she’d carried from an ancient canyon near her house in Colorado. Previous pilgrims had also brought and left behind other, more telling things. A tube of lipstick. A postcard of Bruges, scrawled in a woman’s hand. Folded pieces of paper and fragments of words in Spanish and English, German and Dutch, Korean and Basque. Underwear that raised certain questions. A Matchbox car that looked to my inner-nine-year-old’s eye like a ’68 Corvette, give or take two years. A toy soldier – missing a leg, poor bastard – and the half-eaten cookie on which he’d been subsisting among the pebbles.

On the wooden pole itself I could make out a tacked-up orange baseball cap and a clip-less biking pedal, a gourd on a string, a black-and-white photo of a European peasant family, circa 1930s, a 1970s photo of a boy, in a shirt with blue stripes, holding a Bible, a pre-printed fortune cookie’s fortune: Do not throw the butts into the urinal, for they are subtle, and quick to anger. I saw a Prada label, an AC Milan futbol jersey, and a broken pair of cheap sunglasses. A German pilgrim had erected a small German flag among the rocks. Not to be outdone, so had a Belgian. Or vice versa, let’s not start another war.

My mother, still with her back to my cousin and me, had reached the top of the mound. The Iron Cross now loomed over her, standing stoutly in the wind. She bowed her head and pulled her second, more personal offering from a pocket in her field jacket. She cupped it with both hands and held it over her head, a modest proposal to the cosmos about what she should be allowed to let go of. When I saw her shoulders start to shake I began to cry, too, but quietly, because I was the expedition videographer, not to mention its chief biographer, photographer, legal counsel, and practicing podiatrist.

I handed the camera to Carrie and went to join my mother.
And now the book, Ordinary Magic: Promises I Made to My Mother Through Life, Illness, and a Very Long Walk is finally here!

100_1652
SAM_1968

Leaving Mercadoiro; Rene the Eagle

Read Our Story

ORDINARY MAGIC

I was married, briefly.  The nature channels tell me there are penguins with longer relationships.

Read Our Story

The ultimate Camino de Santiago Journey

By the time a judge brought down the curtain, my mother and I were six thousand miles away, standing at a waystation on a yellow-arrowed path, like characters in some 21st century update to the Wizard of Oz.  My mother wanted a cure for her cancer, or at least a break from “all the cutting and poison”, as she put it.  I hadn’t believed there were any answers for my uncertainties high on the wild-dog-infested and wind-swept spine of a mountain range in northern Spain, so I had sort of convinced myself I wanted nothing.

blockuote-white.png
Inge in Bilbao, Spain, days before starting the Camino de Santiago

NEW ADVENTURE

I stood at the foot of a high rubbled mound. I was holding my new Nikon SLR, which I’d just bought from Costco via the rationale of this very trip. The video was on: Mom had talked about this moment for months, and I am nothing if not a catcher, or perhaps I mean a chaser, of moments. She was picking her way up the mound, through the powdery gray and white rocks. My fifteen-year-old second-cousin, Carrie, had abandoned her massive backpack and was watching the scene from my left. In a field to my right an older man, very tall, sturdy boots, backpack, was weeping.Camino de Santiago Cruz de Ferro Offerings left behind at the Camino de Santiago’s Cruz de FerroThe mound was pierced at its summit by a thirty-foot-tall oak post, about as big around as a telephone pole. The very top of the post was fitted with an iron cap, like the sort of hat an English bulldog might wear, if an English bulldog had scored an audience with the Queen. For a structure with the grand appellation of El Cruz de Ferro, an old Spanish-Latin term that means Cross of Iron, the cap supported an almost comically tiny iron cross whose three free arms ended in fleurs-de-lis. For thousands of years, some version of the Cruz de Ferro had spied on countless pilgrims – first Pagan, later Catholic, now mostly Pagan again – as they formed meaning out of this very waystation.For thousands of years a mound of rocks marked the summit of this mountain range. A million pilgrims before us had built up the mound with hand-placed relics from their own private rituals of letting go: of anger, of grief, of resentment, of illness – letting go even of the fear of death. Because that is what people do on pilgrimages, of any kind, whether they mean to or not. They let go. That’s what the verb to forgive means. To forgive others, and, harder yet, to forgive oneself. Jesus was telling us what he knew about forgiveness, but the bastards killed him before he could show us how to forgive ourselves.Sign up – or watch the new Camino movies on OrdinaryMagicBook.com!An ancient tradition held that pilgrims should bring to the Cruz, from their own homes, a small stone and a more personal item, and to leave them behind at the Cross. My mother was now placing, among the rocks, a small stone she’d carried from an ancient canyon near her house in Colorado. Previous pilgrims had also brought and left behind other, more telling things. A tube of lipstick. A postcard of Bruges, scrawled in a woman’s hand. Folded pieces of paper and fragments of words in Spanish and English, German and Dutch, Korean and Basque. Underwear that raised certain questions. A Matchbox car that looked to my inner-nine-year-old’s eye like a ’68 Corvette, give or take two years. A toy soldier – missing a leg, poor bastard – and the half-eaten cookie on which he’d been subsisting among the pebbles.On the wooden pole itself I could make out a tacked-up orange baseball cap and a clip-less biking pedal, a gourd on a string, a black-and-white photo of a European peasant family, circa 1930s, a 1970s photo of a boy, in a shirt with blue stripes, holding a Bible, a pre-printed fortune cookie’s fortune: Do not throw the butts into the urinal, for they are subtle, and quick to anger. I saw a Prada label, an AC Milan futbol jersey, and a broken pair of cheap sunglasses. A German pilgrim had erected a small German flag among the rocks. Not to be outdone, so had a Belgian. Or vice versa, let’s not start another war.My mother, still with her back to my cousin and me, had reached the top of the mound. The Iron Cross now loomed over her, standing stoutly in the wind. She bowed her head and pulled her second, more personal offering from a pocket in her field jacket. She cupped it with both hands and held it over her head, a modest proposal to the cosmos about what she should be allowed to let go of. When I saw her shoulders start to shake I began to cry, too, but quietly, because I was the expedition videographer, not to mention its chief biographer, photographer, legal counsel, and practicing podiatrist.I handed the camera to Carrie and went to join my mother. And now the book, Ordinary Magic: Promises I Made to My Mother Through Life, Illness, and a Very Long Walk is finally here!
100_1652
SAM_1968

Inge – Rabanal to Mercadoiro and the Iron Cross

Read Our Story

ORDINARY MAGIC

I was married, briefly.  The nature channels tell me there are penguins with longer relationships.

Read Our Story

The ultimate Camino de Santiago Journey

By the time a judge brought down the curtain, my mother and I were six thousand miles away, standing at a waystation on a yellow-arrowed path, like characters in some 21st century update to the Wizard of Oz.  My mother wanted a cure for her cancer, or at least a break from “all the cutting and poison”, as she put it.  I hadn’t believed there were any answers for my uncertainties high on the wild-dog-infested and wind-swept spine of a mountain range in northern Spain, so I had sort of convinced myself I wanted nothing.

blockuote-white.png
Inge in Bilbao, Spain, days before starting the Camino de Santiago

NEW ADVENTURE

I stood at the foot of a high rubbled mound. I was holding my new Nikon SLR, which I’d just bought from Costco via the rationale of this very trip. The video was on: Mom had talked about this moment for months, and I am nothing if not a catcher, or perhaps I mean a chaser, of moments. She was picking her way up the mound, through the powdery gray and white rocks. My fifteen-year-old second-cousin, Carrie, had abandoned her massive backpack and was watching the scene from my left. In a field to my right an older man, very tall, sturdy boots, backpack, was weeping.

Camino de Santiago Cruz de Ferro
Offerings left behind at the Camino de Santiago’s Cruz de Ferro

The mound was pierced at its summit by a thirty-foot-tall oak post, about as big around as a telephone pole. The very top of the post was fitted with an iron cap, like the sort of hat an English bulldog might wear, if an English bulldog had scored an audience with the Queen. For a structure with the grand appellation of El Cruz de Ferro, an old Spanish-Latin term that means Cross of Iron, the cap supported an almost comically tiny iron cross whose three free arms ended in fleurs-de-lis. For thousands of years, some version of the Cruz de Ferro had spied on countless pilgrims – first Pagan, later Catholic, now mostly Pagan again – as they formed meaning out of this very waystation.

For thousands of years a mound of rocks marked the summit of this mountain range. A million pilgrims before us had built up the mound with hand-placed relics from their own private rituals of letting go: of anger, of grief, of resentment, of illness – letting go even of the fear of death. Because that is what people do on pilgrimages, of any kind, whether they mean to or not. They let go. That’s what the verb to forgive means. To forgive others, and, harder yet, to forgive oneself. Jesus was telling us what he knew about forgiveness, but the bastards killed him before he could show us how to forgive ourselves.

Sign up – or watch the new Camino movies on OrdinaryMagicBook.com!

An ancient tradition held that pilgrims should bring to the Cruz, from their own homes, a small stone and a more personal item, and to leave them behind at the Cross. My mother was now placing, among the rocks, a small stone she’d carried from an ancient canyon near her house in Colorado. Previous pilgrims had also brought and left behind other, more telling things. A tube of lipstick. A postcard of Bruges, scrawled in a woman’s hand. Folded pieces of paper and fragments of words in Spanish and English, German and Dutch, Korean and Basque. Underwear that raised certain questions. A Matchbox car that looked to my inner-nine-year-old’s eye like a ’68 Corvette, give or take two years. A toy soldier – missing a leg, poor bastard – and the half-eaten cookie on which he’d been subsisting among the pebbles.

On the wooden pole itself I could make out a tacked-up orange baseball cap and a clip-less biking pedal, a gourd on a string, a black-and-white photo of a European peasant family, circa 1930s, a 1970s photo of a boy, in a shirt with blue stripes, holding a Bible, a pre-printed fortune cookie’s fortune: Do not throw the butts into the urinal, for they are subtle, and quick to anger. I saw a Prada label, an AC Milan futbol jersey, and a broken pair of cheap sunglasses. A German pilgrim had erected a small German flag among the rocks. Not to be outdone, so had a Belgian. Or vice versa, let’s not start another war.

My mother, still with her back to my cousin and me, had reached the top of the mound. The Iron Cross now loomed over her, standing stoutly in the wind. She bowed her head and pulled her second, more personal offering from a pocket in her field jacket. She cupped it with both hands and held it over her head, a modest proposal to the cosmos about what she should be allowed to let go of. When I saw her shoulders start to shake I began to cry, too, but quietly, because I was the expedition videographer, not to mention its chief biographer, photographer, legal counsel, and practicing podiatrist.

I handed the camera to Carrie and went to join my mother.
And now the book, Ordinary Magic: Promises I Made to My Mother Through Life, Illness, and a Very Long Walk is finally here!

100_1652
SAM_1968

Sarria to Mercadoiro to Ventas de Naron

Supporting

DSC_0395 (1)
” Inge’s most loving embrace. Reuniting with a fellow pilgrim “

Supporting Treatment

Inge is a fighter. She beat cancer after grueling surgeries and chemotherapy 11 years ago, and she walked nearly 500 miles across Spain, in late 2011, in part because she hoped the returning cancer might just go away on its own. But the Emperor of All Maladies, as it’s been called, is still with her.

She’s been sent to test after test, and there are probably more tests, and treatments, to come.  We’ve been asked for an easier way for her friends and supporters to help out with the expenses, so here we invite anyone who has been touched by her or her story either to (1) buy the amazing book True History of the Camino de Santiago, written by Inge’s son, Cameron, or (2) donate any amount you choose toward her treatment. Subscribe with your email, above right, to watch Inge’s progress.

See what the True History of the Camino de Santiago book is all about: www.TrueHistoryCaminodeSantiago.com.

Donate:

 

Below are two little movies we made of Inge on the Camino de Santiago. We think they show her passionate, fighting spirit quite well.

Watch Inge Symbolically Leaving Her Cancer at the Iron Cross

In Santiago at Last: How She’ll Look Once She Beats the Emperor Again!

You can donate any amount you wish. Buen Camino!

El Acebo to Ponferrada: More Jamón and What I Miss

Supporting

DSC_0395 (1)
” Inge’s most loving embrace. Reuniting with a fellow pilgrim “

Supporting Treatment

Inge is a fighter. She beat cancer after grueling surgeries and chemotherapy 11 years ago, and she walked nearly 500 miles across Spain, in late 2011, in part because she hoped the returning cancer might just go away on its own. But the Emperor of All Maladies, as it’s been called, is still with her.

She’s been sent to test after test, and there are probably more tests, and treatments, to come.  We’ve been asked for an easier way for her friends and supporters to help out with the expenses, so here we invite anyone who has been touched by her or her story either to (1) buy the amazing book True History of the Camino de Santiago, written by Inge’s son, Cameron, or (2) donate any amount you choose toward her treatment. Subscribe with your email, above right, to watch Inge’s progress.

See what the True History of the Camino de Santiago book is all about: www.TrueHistoryCaminodeSantiago.com.

Donate:

 

Below are two little movies we made of Inge on the Camino de Santiago. We think they show her passionate, fighting spirit quite well.

Watch Inge Symbolically Leaving Her Cancer at the Iron Cross

In Santiago at Last: How She’ll Look Once She Beats the Emperor Again!

You can donate any amount you wish. Buen Camino!

High Up in El Acebo, We Are Served a Human Heart

About

ABOUT US

In early 2001, Mom (Inge) was diagnosed with Stage 3 ovarian cancer.  She had surgery and then grueling chemotherapy.  Already a gourmet chef, she changed the food she bought and how she cooked it.  And she held off the cancer for a decade.

In around May 2010, the periodic tests she underwent revealed three new growths in her pelvis, lung, and neck.  She responded by even more radically altering her diet, lost fifty pounds, and, six months later, saw one growth disappear and another grow smaller.  One stayed the same.  In July 2011, she had the tumor in her lung removed; a biopsy showed it had shrunk yet again, from 12 to 9 millimeters, but that it was cancerous.

In the weeks before her surgery, though, Inge had decided she wanted to walk the Camino de Santiago, in northern Spain.  She began training on the trails around the Black Canyon, and convinced her son, Cameron, to go to Spain with her.

Inge was born in Erlangen, Germany, in 1944, and, after stints as a governess in Bavaria and England, as a student at the Cordon Bleu School of Cooking, and as a flight attendant in New York City, she emigrated to the United States, in 1963.  She now lives in Montrose, Colorado.

Screenshot 2025-07-01 200225

CAMERON

Cameron is a writer (currently awaiting publication by Random House of a work co-written with his former wife), founder of career coachinglawyer coaching, and attorney recruiting firms, Internet entrepreneur, and recovering attorney. He’s an avid skier and hiker.

Quick jump to Cameron’s posts.

Mom at the Cruz de Fierro

Read Our Story

ORDINARY MAGIC

I was married, briefly.  The nature channels tell me there are penguins with longer relationships.

Read Our Story

The ultimate Camino de Santiago Journey

By the time a judge brought down the curtain, my mother and I were six thousand miles away, standing at a waystation on a yellow-arrowed path, like characters in some 21st century update to the Wizard of Oz.  My mother wanted a cure for her cancer, or at least a break from “all the cutting and poison”, as she put it.  I hadn’t believed there were any answers for my uncertainties high on the wild-dog-infested and wind-swept spine of a mountain range in northern Spain, so I had sort of convinced myself I wanted nothing.
blockuote-white.png
Inge in Bilbao, Spain, days before starting the Camino de Santiago

NEW ADVENTURE

I stood at the foot of a high rubbled mound. I was holding my new Nikon SLR, which I’d just bought from Costco via the rationale of this very trip. The video was on: Mom had talked about this moment for months, and I am nothing if not a catcher, or perhaps I mean a chaser, of moments. She was picking her way up the mound, through the powdery gray and white rocks. My fifteen-year-old second-cousin, Carrie, had abandoned her massive backpack and was watching the scene from my left. In a field to my right an older man, very tall, sturdy boots, backpack, was weeping.

Camino de Santiago Cruz de Ferro
Offerings left behind at the Camino de Santiago’s Cruz de Ferro

The mound was pierced at its summit by a thirty-foot-tall oak post, about as big around as a telephone pole. The very top of the post was fitted with an iron cap, like the sort of hat an English bulldog might wear, if an English bulldog had scored an audience with the Queen. For a structure with the grand appellation of El Cruz de Ferro, an old Spanish-Latin term that means Cross of Iron, the cap supported an almost comically tiny iron cross whose three free arms ended in fleurs-de-lis. For thousands of years, some version of the Cruz de Ferro had spied on countless pilgrims – first Pagan, later Catholic, now mostly Pagan again – as they formed meaning out of this very waystation.

For thousands of years a mound of rocks marked the summit of this mountain range. A million pilgrims before us had built up the mound with hand-placed relics from their own private rituals of letting go: of anger, of grief, of resentment, of illness – letting go even of the fear of death. Because that is what people do on pilgrimages, of any kind, whether they mean to or not. They let go. That’s what the verb to forgive means. To forgive others, and, harder yet, to forgive oneself. Jesus was telling us what he knew about forgiveness, but the bastards killed him before he could show us how to forgive ourselves.

Sign up – or watch the new Camino movies on OrdinaryMagicBook.com!

An ancient tradition held that pilgrims should bring to the Cruz, from their own homes, a small stone and a more personal item, and to leave them behind at the Cross. My mother was now placing, among the rocks, a small stone she’d carried from an ancient canyon near her house in Colorado. Previous pilgrims had also brought and left behind other, more telling things. A tube of lipstick. A postcard of Bruges, scrawled in a woman’s hand. Folded pieces of paper and fragments of words in Spanish and English, German and Dutch, Korean and Basque. Underwear that raised certain questions. A Matchbox car that looked to my inner-nine-year-old’s eye like a ’68 Corvette, give or take two years. A toy soldier – missing a leg, poor bastard – and the half-eaten cookie on which he’d been subsisting among the pebbles.

On the wooden pole itself I could make out a tacked-up orange baseball cap and a clip-less biking pedal, a gourd on a string, a black-and-white photo of a European peasant family, circa 1930s, a 1970s photo of a boy, in a shirt with blue stripes, holding a Bible, a pre-printed fortune cookie’s fortune: Do not throw the butts into the urinal, for they are subtle, and quick to anger. I saw a Prada label, an AC Milan futbol jersey, and a broken pair of cheap sunglasses. A German pilgrim had erected a small German flag among the rocks. Not to be outdone, so had a Belgian. Or vice versa, let’s not start another war.

My mother, still with her back to my cousin and me, had reached the top of the mound. The Iron Cross now loomed over her, standing stoutly in the wind. She bowed her head and pulled her second, more personal offering from a pocket in her field jacket. She cupped it with both hands and held it over her head, a modest proposal to the cosmos about what she should be allowed to let go of. When I saw her shoulders start to shake I began to cry, too, but quietly, because I was the expedition videographer, not to mention its chief biographer, photographer, legal counsel, and practicing podiatrist.

I handed the camera to Carrie and went to join my mother.
And now the book, Ordinary Magic: Promises I Made to My Mother Through Life, Illness, and a Very Long Walk is finally here!

100_1652
SAM_1968

The Cross of Chemo

Read Our Story

ORDINARY MAGIC

I was married, briefly.  The nature channels tell me there are penguins with longer relationships.

Read Our Story

The ultimate Camino de Santiago Journey

I was married, briefly.  The nature channels tell me there are penguins with longer relationships.

By the time a judge brought down the curtain, my mother and I were six thousand miles away, standing at a waystation on a yellow-arrowed path, like characters in some 21st century update to the Wizard of Oz.  My mother wanted a cure for her cancer, or at least a break from “all the cutting and poison”, as she put it.  I hadn’t believed there were any answers for my uncertainties high on the wild-dog-infested and wind-swept spine of a mountain range in northern Spain, so I had sort of convinced myself I wanted nothing.

I stood at the foot of a high rubbled mound.  I was holding my new

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NEW ADVENTURE

I stood at the foot of a high rubbled mound. I was holding my new

Camino de Santiago start
Inge in Bilbao, Spain, days before starting the Camino de Santiago

Nikon SLR, which I’d just bought from Costco via the rationale of this very trip. The video was on: Mom had talked about this moment for months, and I am nothing if not a catcher, or perhaps I mean a chaser, of moments. She was picking her way up the mound, through the powdery gray and white rocks. My fifteen-year-old second-cousin, Carrie, had abandoned her massive backpack and was watching the scene from my left. In a field to my right an older man, very tall, sturdy boots, backpack, was weeping.

Camino de Santiago Cruz de Ferro
Offerings left behind at the Camino de Santiago’s Cruz de Ferro

The mound was pierced at its summit by a thirty-foot-tall oak post, about as big around as a telephone pole. The very top of the post was fitted with an iron cap, like the sort of hat an English bulldog might wear, if an English bulldog had scored an audience with the Queen. For a structure with the grand appellation of El Cruz de Ferro, an old Spanish-Latin term that means Cross of Iron, the cap supported an almost comically tiny iron cross whose three free arms ended in fleurs-de-lis. For thousands of years, some version of the Cruz de Ferro had spied on countless pilgrims – first Pagan, later Catholic, now mostly Pagan again – as they formed meaning out of this very waystation.

For thousands of years a mound of rocks marked the summit of this mountain range. A million pilgrims before us had built up the mound with hand-placed relics from their own private rituals of letting go: of anger, of grief, of resentment, of illness – letting go even of the fear of death. Because that is what people do on pilgrimages, of any kind, whether they mean to or not. They let go. That’s what the verb to forgive means. To forgive others, and, harder yet, to forgive oneself. Jesus was telling us what he knew about forgiveness, but the bastards killed him before he could show us how to forgive ourselves.

An ancient tradition held that pilgrims should bring to the Cruz, from their own homes, a small stone and a more personal item, and to leave them behind at the Cross. My mother was now placing, among the rocks, a small stone she’d carried from an ancient canyon near her house in Colorado. Previous pilgrims had also brought and left behind other, more telling things. A tube of lipstick. A postcard of Bruges, scrawled in a woman’s hand. Folded pieces of paper and fragments of words in Spanish and English, German and Dutch, Korean and Basque. Underwear that raised certain questions. A Matchbox car that looked to my inner-nine-year-old’s eye like a ’68 Corvette, give or take two years. A toy soldier – missing a leg, poor bastard – and the half-eaten cookie on which he’d been subsisting among the pebbles.

On the wooden pole itself I could make out a tacked-up orange baseball cap and a clip-less biking pedal, a gourd on a string, a black-and-white photo of a European peasant family, circa 1930s, a 1970s photo of a boy, in a shirt with blue stripes, holding a Bible, a pre-printed fortune cookie’s fortune: Do not throw the butts into the urinal, for they are subtle, and quick to anger. I saw a Prada label, an AC Milan futbol jersey, and a broken pair of cheap sunglasses. A German pilgrim had erected a small German flag among the rocks. Not to be outdone, so had a Belgian. Or vice versa, let’s not start another war.

My mother, still with her back to my cousin and me, had reached the top of the mound. The Iron Cross now loomed over her, standing stoutly in the wind. She bowed her head and pulled her second, more personal offering from a pocket in her field jacket. She cupped it with both hands and held it over her head, a modest proposal to the cosmos about what she should be allowed to let go of. When I saw her shoulders start to shake I began to cry, too, but quietly, because I was the expedition videographer, not to mention its chief biographer, photographer, legal counsel, and practicing podiatrist.

I handed the camera to Carrie and went to join my mother.

100_1652
SAM_1968

Mom Approaches El Cruz de Ferro — the Iron Cross of Letting Go

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ORDINARY MAGIC

I was married, briefly.  The nature channels tell me there are penguins with longer relationships.

Read Our Story

The ultimate Camino de Santiago Journey

I was married, briefly.  The nature channels tell me there are penguins with longer relationships.

By the time a judge brought down the curtain, my mother and I were six thousand miles away, standing at a waystation on a yellow-arrowed path, like characters in some 21st century update to the Wizard of Oz.  My mother wanted a cure for her cancer, or at least a break from “all the cutting and poison”, as she put it.  I hadn’t believed there were any answers for my uncertainties high on the wild-dog-infested and wind-swept spine of a mountain range in northern Spain, so I had sort of convinced myself I wanted nothing.

I stood at the foot of a high rubbled mound.  I was holding my new

THE WORLD

IS YOUR HOME

blockuote-white.png
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt.
andre gide

NEW ADVENTURE

I stood at the foot of a high rubbled mound. I was holding my new

Camino de Santiago start
Inge in Bilbao, Spain, days before starting the Camino de Santiago

Nikon SLR, which I’d just bought from Costco via the rationale of this very trip. The video was on: Mom had talked about this moment for months, and I am nothing if not a catcher, or perhaps I mean a chaser, of moments. She was picking her way up the mound, through the powdery gray and white rocks. My fifteen-year-old second-cousin, Carrie, had abandoned her massive backpack and was watching the scene from my left. In a field to my right an older man, very tall, sturdy boots, backpack, was weeping.

Camino de Santiago Cruz de Ferro
Offerings left behind at the Camino de Santiago’s Cruz de Ferro

The mound was pierced at its summit by a thirty-foot-tall oak post, about as big around as a telephone pole. The very top of the post was fitted with an iron cap, like the sort of hat an English bulldog might wear, if an English bulldog had scored an audience with the Queen. For a structure with the grand appellation of El Cruz de Ferro, an old Spanish-Latin term that means Cross of Iron, the cap supported an almost comically tiny iron cross whose three free arms ended in fleurs-de-lis. For thousands of years, some version of the Cruz de Ferro had spied on countless pilgrims – first Pagan, later Catholic, now mostly Pagan again – as they formed meaning out of this very waystation.

For thousands of years a mound of rocks marked the summit of this mountain range. A million pilgrims before us had built up the mound with hand-placed relics from their own private rituals of letting go: of anger, of grief, of resentment, of illness – letting go even of the fear of death. Because that is what people do on pilgrimages, of any kind, whether they mean to or not. They let go. That’s what the verb to forgive means. To forgive others, and, harder yet, to forgive oneself. Jesus was telling us what he knew about forgiveness, but the bastards killed him before he could show us how to forgive ourselves.

An ancient tradition held that pilgrims should bring to the Cruz, from their own homes, a small stone and a more personal item, and to leave them behind at the Cross. My mother was now placing, among the rocks, a small stone she’d carried from an ancient canyon near her house in Colorado. Previous pilgrims had also brought and left behind other, more telling things. A tube of lipstick. A postcard of Bruges, scrawled in a woman’s hand. Folded pieces of paper and fragments of words in Spanish and English, German and Dutch, Korean and Basque. Underwear that raised certain questions. A Matchbox car that looked to my inner-nine-year-old’s eye like a ’68 Corvette, give or take two years. A toy soldier – missing a leg, poor bastard – and the half-eaten cookie on which he’d been subsisting among the pebbles.

On the wooden pole itself I could make out a tacked-up orange baseball cap and a clip-less biking pedal, a gourd on a string, a black-and-white photo of a European peasant family, circa 1930s, a 1970s photo of a boy, in a shirt with blue stripes, holding a Bible, a pre-printed fortune cookie’s fortune: Do not throw the butts into the urinal, for they are subtle, and quick to anger. I saw a Prada label, an AC Milan futbol jersey, and a broken pair of cheap sunglasses. A German pilgrim had erected a small German flag among the rocks. Not to be outdone, so had a Belgian. Or vice versa, let’s not start another war.

My mother, still with her back to my cousin and me, had reached the top of the mound. The Iron Cross now loomed over her, standing stoutly in the wind. She bowed her head and pulled her second, more personal offering from a pocket in her field jacket. She cupped it with both hands and held it over her head, a modest proposal to the cosmos about what she should be allowed to let go of. When I saw her shoulders start to shake I began to cry, too, but quietly, because I was the expedition videographer, not to mention its chief biographer, photographer, legal counsel, and practicing podiatrist.

I handed the camera to Carrie and went to join my mother.

100_1652
SAM_1968

Mom: Navarette, Azofra, Santo Domingo, Belorado, Burgos, Leon, El Acebo, Astorga

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“I Want to Go to that Cross and Leave My Cancer Behind”

The Energy Meridians of Mother Earth

I had heard people say that the Camino runs along on one of earth’s energy meridians, also called ley lines. I’d heard that in pre-Roman times, people of the Pagan religions, and, later, Christian mystics, walked the Camino route from Santiago to Leon, and which in its entirety, as it covers seven sacred sites corresponding to the seven chakras of the human body, is called the Celtic Camino.

The ley lines of the earth are said to correspond to the energy meridians of the human body, as in Chinese medicine. Throughout the world, indigenous peoples have viewed the earth as a holographic representation of the human form. The great travel writer Bruce Chatwin described the connection between the Australian Aboriginal people and the land they walked, and sang out loud — in a wonderful book called The Songlines. Lucien Lévy-Bruhl, speaking of the Aborigines, said “The land is a living book in which the myths are inscribed . . . A legend is captured in the very outlines of the landscape.”

The Camino is also said to perfectly parallel the Milky Way, and some people believe that by following a path so powerfully charged with energy, a person is more likely to have intensely spiritual or religious experiences. One etymology of the name “Compostela” argues that it comes from Latin campus stellae, “field of the stars”.

Does this refer to the Milky Way, or to the belief that the bones of St. James made their way to Santiago from Israel (in a boat, in seven days) and were found when a shepherd spotted a star and somehow deduced that the star, billions of light years away, hung in the sky over a specific spot — the spot where the bones were interred and where the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela now stands?  If you are able to replicate this feat at home, please leave a comment in the Comments section.*

I picture a line of druids solemnly walking the same path, oak staffs in hand, white-haired and regal like Gandalf in “The Lord of the Rings”, to Finisterre, literally “end of land”, or what was then believed to be the end of the known world.  But the Celtic Camino actually runs from west to east and back again: it stretches from Santiago – its start, in the first chakra – to Leon, Spain and Toulouse, France, and finally to Rosslyn, Scotland. Even today, some people walk this route, which has them walking against the current of the Camino de Santiago pilgrims.

Some people believe that the tomb that allegedly contains St. James’ bones (again, a dubious claim) does not, in fact, house the remains of Saint James, but of a pagan priestess, and that the Catholic Church, as it so often did with Pagan churches, symbolism (e.g., the fish symbol, Christmas in place of the winter solstice, the god-man born of a virgin and a god) and rituals, took advantage of the pre-existing meaning assigned to the Camino to spread Christianity as far and wide as possible. Yet another theory holds that if there are any remains on the spot, they belong to Priscillian, an ascetic from Avila who was beheaded by the Church as a heretic in Treves, France, in 385 CE, but who was venerated as a martyr in Galicia and other parts of northern Spain.

Here’s what I found on a website discussing the matter of energy:

As we walk and travel along this sacred path, we offer a healing to heal the split for Mother Earth, as we simultaneously heal our own split. We walk up Her chakras, and as we do, we offer our healing, our light and love to ourselves, and to the Earth along this powerful meridian of energy.

And this author quotes another, one Peter Dawkins, who says:

A certain pilgrim's footprint

A true pilgrim who pilgrimages in love leaves footprints of light. Many pilgrims leave many such footprints, and a well-walked pilgrims’ way can become a path of light. There are multitudes of pilgrimage routes crossing the earth, with thousands of people pilgrimaging them every year.

On the other hand, “Some of these meridians are polluted with . . . negative vibrational toxins such as battles, massacres, and the like. These vibrations are stored in the records of the land itself” – much as illness may be viewed as the storage of negative emotional energy – “reflecting back to its inhabitants and causing serious illness . . .”

If the history of the Camino tells us anything, it is that war was nearly continuous along it. Christians fought Christians, Moors and Saracens fought Christians, Christians persecuted Jews, and so on, ad nauseam. For most of the history of Spain, these wars were more about land and strategic advantage than religion. The Camino runs through an energetic wasteland of battles and massacres.

“Fortunately,” according to the same source, “these currents respond positively to spiritual impression.” And here we come back to the pilgrims, who walk it with prayers, mantras, and good faith in their hearts and minds. Once again, a practice that was originally Pagan has been superseded by Christian symbolism. Instead of walking along one of the great planet’s lines of energy, pilgrims redefined their seeking in a new narrative, a new storyline: We are seeking the legendary bones of St. James the Apostle.

The Human Scale

Mom said she’s been visualizing the energy blasting through her tumor. I’ve been told by more than a few people that my energy is palpable and can be felt in whatever part of a person’s body I direct it. I don’t know what to think of this, but I make a Cartesian wager when I place my hand on Mom’s lower back and visualize blocked energy getting unblocked, or see light and love flowing into her: there’s no penalty for being wrong, but what if it works?

Like the Catholics who would come later, Pagans often placed altars and other symbolism on the tops of mountains. Thus was the current site of the Cruz de Ferro, the Iron Cross, originally the site of a Pagan monument. It sits on the highest (or second-highest) point on the Camino.

The Cruz de Ferro, by tradition, is the place where pilgrims leave something behind. The place where they agree to let go of something. For months now, Mom has said, “I’m going to leave my cancer behind!” She has duly brought a stone, from home, and a paper copy of her PET scan with the third and last tumor circled in red.

And all of this has me worried.

 

 

* Another etymology is compositum, “the well founded”, or composita tella, meaning “burial ground”.

Astorga to Rabanal

Astorga to Rabanal del Camino, 22km. 

Friday, October 7, 2011.  I thought I’d have a solid night’s sleep, but I didn’t get to sleep until nearly 11, and between Mom’s snoring, Barbara’s (according to Mom), and apparently my own (per Carrie), the morning hours came far too quickly.  Mom got up far earlier than we did, as is her wont, and went to the kitchen to make some German-style potatoes.  She found the kitchen a disaster from the pilgrim revels of the night before (Mom thought “guitar-playing and drumming” would be too charitable, but there was strumming and banging involved).  The kitchen was the classic tragedy of the commons, but, Mom being Mom, she cleaned it.

We were on the road at about 7:40a.m.  It was cool, cool enough for two layers of Icebreaker wool.  Unlike in days past, when, after 30 or 60 minutes I’d take off the top layer, I wore both layers the whole 22 kilometers.  In fact, after my hands stopped functioning in any way but to hold my poles, I added gloves.  And my five-toed socks.  My nose ran the entire way, ran so hard and fast I feared it might reach Santiago without me.

Mom was pleased with the new Salomon trekking shoes she had bought yesterday.  “Oh,” she

Mom's dancing in the shoe store blurs the shot

said.  “I’m going to sleep in these!”  For the first time since we began the Camino, she walked an entire stage in one pair of footwear, and did not resort to her sandals.

Even before we’d left Astorga, we came upon a wonderful aroma of fennel.  It was like walking through a licorice factory.  The blue of the dawning sky was beyond description.  The power lines sizzled and buzzed overhead – something I’ve heard only in Spain.  In Murias de Rechivaldo, we stopped for Second Breakfast at a small but cozy café run by a woman named Pilar.  She addressed me as “senor,” and the bathrooms, to Mom’s delight, had both towels and soap, a rarity on the Road.  (As long as I’m wearing wicking wool, I find towels unnecessary).  These things would earn her a larger tip.

Pilar was playing Tibetan mantras on the stereo.  “For patience,” she said, pronouncing it “pot-ience”.  “And for compassion.”

Senora Pilar

 

“There isn’t enough of that along the Road,” Mom said.  Pilar agreed.  They discussed Pilar’s liver problems, and her efforts to remain positive, and they shared tips on alternative medicine.  Pilar said that good food had changed her life and her health — notably, she no longer ate jamon.  Meanwhile, I talked with a Galician who has lived in Alberta for many years, his Canadian partner, and an Italian woman from Bologna.

The countryside between Astorga and Rabanal is sparsely populated.  As the earth’s population climbs, I hope that people, especially those in China and India, will keep Spain in mind.  The semi-arid terrain reminded me of the land in and around the Great Basin of the western United States:  yellow grasses, light-green shrubs, heather, broom, wild

Stone corral

thyme, desert flowers, and a few types of dominant trees, none of them very tall, such as scrub oak.  In the distance I saw a few copses of aspens.

It should have been no surprise to see a sign, in El Ganso, advertising a Cowboy Museum.  (I couldn’t do it.  Not after the chocolate museum).  The soil was now red, too, reminding me that Colorado got its name from the Spanish – color red, color rado (red is now rojo in Spanish, but their explorers swept through the Colorado territory centuries ago).

We stopped for First Lunch in El Ganso and I took some notes and checked my email.  Mom fed stray cats bread with butter – “Have you noticed they only eat it if it has butter on it?” – and the cats all ended up standing on my feet because she was throwing the crusts between them.

For the first time since before Burgos – that is, since far on the other side of the plains of Castilla and Leon – we saw walls made of stone.  Some were in the fields, too large to have been a house, too small to enclose an entire property.  I decided they must have been corrals for sheep and cows.  The villages, too, were made of stone.  Roofs were made of mined slate or even thatch.  In the distance, hills, the ridgelines of which were covered with modern windmills too large for Don Quixote to tilt at.

We came upon a tree under which a young man in long curly hair had set up a table.  He had been to Santiago and was now making his way back . . . to somewhere.  For a donation, he was offering coffee, chai, hummus, and cake.  Nearby, and much more alluringly, a slender, raven-haired woman played a haunting flying-saucer-like

Spanish woman plays a hang in the middle of nowhere

instrument called a hang.  Invented by a Swiss, it had small dimples spaced around its perimeter, and by tapping the places in between, she caused it to make different notes.  The sound wasn’t too unlike the music played by the alien ship in “Close Encounters of the Third Kind”.  Hank, a young Dutchman, tried his hand at it, too.  I bought one of the woman’s CDs, and we moved on.

Hank and I walked for a while.  He told me about a man who was on the Camino with his daughter’s ashes, and who was walking an astonishing 75 kilometers per day.

He told me he himself was on the Camino to prove, as he put it, “that I can finish something.”  Shin splints had resulted in his early departure from the army, and his confidence had suffered.

“You thought something was wrong with you?” I said.  “You worried that it wasn’t just the injury but that you were weak?”

“Something just like that,” he said.  He was now traveling the world for a year, and filming his exploits.  He said he wanted to learn how to meditate, and for about an hour I talked to him about it.  Hank is probably the first person I’ve ever heard say, of English, “I love the language.”

“Why?”

“It’s just so easy and smooth.  Dutch is like German, they both sound so harsh.”

“To my ear,” I said, “Dutch sounds a little like German, but also a little like English, so in the end it sounds like the kind of language I would make up, if I were going to make up a language that sounded like complete nonsense.”

Rabanal Albergue entrada

Rabanal

The albergue in Rabanal was utterly charming.  Stone walls, wooden beams, an outdoor bar and patio, flowers and flowering bushes scattered about.  There’s even a mistletoe tree, about twelve feet tall.  I thought mistletoe grew only at Christmas, and near doorways.  The proprietress didn’t speak a lick of English, or anything other than Spanish, but she was all smiles, as was her mother, who must have been in her eighties.  The daughter, who was in her late fifties, walked through the dorm and would cry Hola!, and Mom and I answered a few times, until we realized that she was playing peek-a-boo with pilgrims sitting outside the windows.

Once I’d dropped my pack I headed to the restroom.  The light switch was not in the same room as the toilet stall.  That should have been my first warning.  Sure enough, after a few minutes of contemplation, I was cast into darkness.  This saves on electricity, but it necessitates the use of more paper.  I need to research how the Spanish are apparently able to do their business so quickly.  Is it all the oil in their diet?

Mom sat down at a table next to Barbara, the Bavarian woman, and Rainer, from

Okay, girls, this is a whole mistletoe tree. You know what to do.

Cologne.  He’d had a hard day of walking, he said, after having had too much of a local spirit.  Rainer said he was on the Camino because he’d had a rough two to three years, and he wanted to stop thinking about all his problems.

“Is it working?” I asked.  He shrugged.

Barbara had beaten cancer four years earlier.  She initially wanted to walk the Camino in order to spend some time by herself, but now, she said, she was feeling dankbarkeit, thankfulness or gratitude, for her life.  While away from her normal life, she realized how good she had it.  She had been married 26 years and she and her husband still felt about one another as they had when they met.  She had wonderful daughters.  She wanted everything, she said, to stay just the same.  There, I thought, was a dangerous thought to attach oneself to.

Atop the iglesias in Rabanal, the little churches, were more storks’ nests.  One of them, inside, was crumbling and rustic — perfect.  We went there for a Vespers mass, blessedly short, and attempted, in Latin, that odd reading/singing-without-a-clear-melody that Catholics are somehow able to do, perhaps right out of the womb.  We read a Psalm about the Lord crushing our enemies, and then we read from Romans about always doing things to please our neighbors.

“You did that really well,” Mom said to me.  “Like you’ve done it before.  But that priest was not going to let you be lead singer, no way.”

As we exited the church, another group of worshippers was waiting outside.  Two women looked at my footwear aghast, as if I’d just walked across the face of the Lord, stopped, backed up, and wiped my feet.  Soon the whole group had turned to watch me walking away, for all I know clutching their rosaries and crossing themselves.  It’s this sort of thing that could make even a sociopath self-conscious.

Across a narrow road from a hotel that had wi-fi, I sat down with my computer in the cold.  Vodafone charges me by the gigabyte, so when I want to upload pictures to Facebook or the blog, I use free wi-fi.  A cat sat across the road from me, near the door of the restaurant.  We exchanged a knowing glance, we two scavengers.

Morning in Rabanal del Camino:  An Ode to My Fellow Pilgrims

It must have gotten into the 30s last night.  Even with a blanket and two layers of clothes, I was cold.  There was very little snoring, at least that I heard.  I call this a miracle, and credit St. James himself.  Mom said Rainer was sawing away because he’d drunk two bottles of wine the night before.  In the morning he was nursing both a café con leche, from the bar and, in his left hand, a Coke.  He said he felt awful and didn’t know why.

“Alcohol?” I said.

“Could be,” he said.

Although we’re no longer at risk of walking in hot weather, at this altitude and with current weather reports, pilgrims continue to insist on going to bed before 10 and getting up before 7a.m. to begin walking.  And thus begins the second movement of each night’s Orchestral Maneuvers in the Dark (shout out to Yuka for the 80s reference).  At first, one tentative soul glides around, quiet as can be.  He is soon joined by another pilgrim or two.  There is rustling, but it’s tentative.

But then the broken-window phenomenon sets in.  With each new person, and each new noise, comes more permission for the next person to be louder.  Soon the rustling turns into a manic stuffing, and then a loud zipping, and sotto voce voices turn into whispers fit for artillerymen, and eventually, no matter how many bleary-eyed people are still enclosed in sleeping bags, pilgrims are now calling out to one another, stomping about, slamming

These are externalized costs, in economist-speak.

doors.  It’s truly amazing that these are the same seemingly normal, well-adjusted people we have met the night before.  Then again, once on the trail, some of them will also be unable to bury, or even to lift a rock to cover up, their used toilet paper.

I’m used to a wilderness ethic, at least in America, that says you pack out whatever you bring in.  In true wilderness areas, that even includes your own waste.  That’s what plastic bags are for.  The Camino, by contrast, needs either to educate pilgrims better or to provide trash cans.  Pilgrims disrespect their fellows, the locals, and the environment with their trash.

Tomorrow, we will finally reach the Cruz de Ferro, the highest point on the Camino and, by tradition, the place where pilgrims leave something behind — where they let go of something.  It is probably the most important part of the Camino for Mom.  “I’m going to leave my cancer there,” she said, a few months ago.  But will she?  And isn’t the hope itself dangerous?

 

León to Astorga, City of Chocolate

León to Astorga

To give Mom’s toe more time to heal, and because walking from León to Santiago would

Gaudí's Palace

have required an aggressive 18 kilometers a day, every day, for 12 days, we took a short bus ride from Burgos to Astorga.  Astorga is a pleasant little town.  Marie Anne had recommended that we be sure to stop here.  There is an embarrassing wealth of cathedrals and churches for such a small town, and a Museum of Chocolate, which Carrie was determined to see.  The old town in which we’re staying sits on a bluff overlooking the surrounding countryside.

Legend has it that both Santiago and St. Paul preached in Astorga.  Both legends seem to me unlikely, but the city did merit a bishopric of its own.  Because it’s at the foot of two very steep climbs, it became a place on the Camino for travelers to rest up before the next ascent.  As a result, there were once more hostels here than anywhere but Burgos.

Astorga was originally a Celtic settlement and in 14 BCE became a Roman stronghold in what was known as Asturica.  Still visible today are the ruins of a sumptuous private home, complete with baths (featuring, as in the baths I’ve seen in Israel, hot, cold, and

Ruins of a Roman Villa

even tepid water), and the town’s walls. Plinius called the city urbs magnifica, “magnificent city”, but most of what the Romans built was destroyed when the Visigoth Teodorico II defeated the Suevi tribe that had settled the area after the fall of Rome. The Moors later destroyed the Visigothic city.  After the campaigns of Alfonso I of Asturias (739-757) against the Moors, the city was abandoned until the 11th century, when it became a major stop on the Camino.  The city was unusually welcoming to its Jewish residents until 1492, when all Jews were either forcibly converted, killed, or expelled from Spain.

Astorga has a fine cathedral, to judge from the outside.  But both times we arrived it was

Astoga Cathedral

closed, so we’ll never know what’s inside.  It might have held the Holy Grail, or a BMW Z8.  We ran into the same problem at the neo-Gothic, fairytale Bishop’s Palace designed by the great and whimsical Antonio Gaudi.

Happily, in Astorga there is a fine little albergue.  The owners or managers are a Spanish couple, and the volunteer hospitalerosare German, this time a couple from a town near Koblenz.  Mom was utterly delighted with the kitchen, which led to a patio with a view for

Mom and a view of and from the Patio at the Astorga Albergue

many miles, and she could not have been happier about immediately going shopping and making lunch – German-style hamburger patties with onions and German potato salad, along with white asparagus, raw red peppers, banana slices, and grapes.

We got a room with a view – and the room holds only four people, the fourth being Barbara, a woman of a certain age from near Munich, whose daughter was once a satisfied exchange student in Iowa.  She has that Bavarian accent that reminds me of my relatives, and childhood, in Bavaria.  Barbara’s crown has broken, so she is off to see a dentist.  Curiously, this happened to another pilgrim just a few days ago.

I’m tired today.  I didn’t get much sleep last night.  At least one man, and maybe two, sounded like nothing so much as a motorcycle starting up.  I am becoming an aficionado of snoring sounds.  It’s like Nabokov, collecting and documenting butterflies, only with more rage.  Truly, hostels need to provide those little anti-snore strips and require that snorers use them.  It should also be made kosher for other pilgrims to wake a snorer without a strip and ask him to get one or to banish himself from the albergue, if not from society entirely.

I am looking forward to a greater probability of a full night’s sleep.  It would depress me beyond measure for Barbara’s crown, say, to get broken again.

Counting another bus trip, we’ll have about 169 kilometers to go, out of the original 800+.  If we budget 11 days (we leave from Lisbon on October 22, but wanted to spend some time in Portugal), then we need to cover 15.4 kilometers per day.  That’s easily doable, if we can avoid injuries and other health issues.  Apparently one must cover the last 100 kilometers to get the special badge of the pilgrim.  Or maybe it’s an embossed certificate from the Pope, along with an accounting of the sins remitted (and how does he know?  But then, Santa Claus knows, so why can’t the Pope know?)  Julio told us that in Santiago, the townsfolk offer to host pilgrims in their own homes, and that there is some kind of ceremony at the cathedral where the pilgrims’ names are called out publicly.

XOCOLATL

One proud native informed us that Astorga was the site of the first manufacture of chocolate in Europe.  (He also said the first shop was in Aachen, Germany).  I wasn’t able to confirm this with Google, and the Museo de Chocolate, for which we had high hopes, was of no help.  The museum appears to have been carved out of the living quarters of someone’s home, and it offers less an education in things chocolate than a collection of old chocolate-making tools.  But its curators’ primary interest seems to have been Spanish-language chocolate advertising in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.  Somewhere in the world, a Ph.D. student with an esoteric thesis will be very happy someday.

The Spanish were the first to bring chocolate to the Old World, and like so much else, they got it from the Aztecs.  Montezuma drank the stuff eight times a day, and believed it was the key to good health.  When Hernán Cortés, the conquistador who destroyed Aztec civilization, broke into Montezuma’s palace, in 1591, to rob his treasury of its gold and silver, he was astonished to find only a truck-load of cocoa beans.  Cortés brought Xocolatl! to Spain, where the bitter stuff was made more palatable to European tastes by mixing the ground roasted beans with sugar and vanilla.  When more and more sugar was added, it became edible to Americans.

Catching Up: Logroño and Navarette

Logroño

Checking into the municipal albergue is now old hat. The one in Logroño was staffed with more unfriendly, unsmiling volunteers who speak a rapid Spanish that none of us can follow. What it boils down to is, we need to show our credentials and show our passport, then take a shower and come back to pay. We received throw-away sheets and pillowcases, which is what some albergues do now. We had arrived so quickly that we didn’t know what to do with ourselves. The 9 kilometers were so easy, but I was still tired. We tried to find a notary for Cameron and a grocery store.

This albergue has a nice big kitchen, but the two stoves have been removed and only a slow microwave exists. We bought veggies and salad (tomatoes, cucumbers, cheese, and chorizo, and bread, of course). I haven’t eaten so many carbs in a long time. But there’s absolutely no choice. I wonder if the veggies are sprayed. I am so far off my diet, I don’t even see it anymore. My energy level is down, and I would even consider eating meat just to get something of substance into my stomach. I bought two large, lovely red peppers to eat on the way in case there were only the uncovered mayo tuna tapas.

The guys took off to do business, and Marie Anne and I went to a café in the square. We were people-watching while we had our café con leche and mousse. It’s a lovely afternoon and people are busy going to and fro. Most of them are very nicely dressed. The more mature women as well. Their hair is coiffed, clothes match, nice shoes. We don’t see many overweight people. There was a beautiful cathedral with an ornate façade.

After washing our clothes and arranging the service to take Quasimodo to the next village in the morning (who has been replaced by a fat-baby daypack). We had another salad for dinner, and I went to bed to read for a while. There are three dormitories and probably 36 people in each. There were only two toilets and two showers for women, and as many for men. Toilet paper is a rarity, and one had better bring one’s own or be caught with one’s pants down. I hear people speak Spanish and laugh, some in broken English, and finally lights are out, and all is quiet . . . until midnight.

The snoring concert begins, and it’s awful. I went to the bathroom and then tried to go back to sleep. The Irish guy who was up a little while ago, tending to his injured foot, is now talking in his sleep. At two o’clock I’m still awake, and all four snorers are snoring at the same time. Nothing helps. I even contemplated dragging my mattress into the kitchen.

Even though I had only 13 or so kilometers to hike the next day, it’s a lot when you’re tired.

The flax (which I call “my dirt”) started to work, so I was up again. Finally, I took ibuprofen, and slept one-and-a-half hours before the plastic rustling began. I tried to go to the bathroom first, so I could take care of my dental issues. I snuck back to my bunk and retrieved coffee. There was not a pot to heat water.

A young Spanish man pantomimed that I should place a glass of water into the microwave. “Ahh,” I said. “Good idea.”

And then I decided to take my flax in the mornings, because I believe it will work much better, and won’t give me so many colon issues.

Logroño to Navarette

Marie Anne, Carrie, and I left Logroño while it was still cool so we could arrive before the hot noon sun caught us. Cameron and Julio were once again dealing with the notary. We made decent progress, and only stopped several kilometers out of town. The landscape changed back to being hilly, with lots of vineyards. We stopped at a bar, luckily open, and had our morning café con leche. I had to take of two blisters on my right foot. It was a beautiful spot by a pond, surrounded by green hills.

Then we started again and the Camino ran along the highway, divided by a chain-link fence. Every link had a hand-made cross in it, some made of wood, others of plastic bottles. I fashioned one from yellow flowers and placed it there as well. I remembered my visit to Oklahoma City, where people had done the same thing. I tried to explain that the bombing had hit the sangre de couer of the people of Oklahoma City, and she understood.

I was thinking as we were walking about the ancient pilgrims, and their hardships. How they were often robbed, and if they didn’t have enough, they might be beaten and thrown into the river. So in spite of all my issues, they were much worse off.

I was also having a food obsession: where to get it, what I would do with it, if they didn’t have what I wanted, what we’d do instead. Once that problem was taken care of, then came the bathroom obsession. Where to put it all, when there was not even a tree.

Everywhere the harvesting of grapes had begun. The weather was still perfect, and I’m sure they’re very happy to have such a great year.

Navarette

We arrived in Navarette early, and the albergue was still closed. We waited at a nearby café, where other pilgrims sat, and got sleep in the warm noon sun. Soon, we saw Cameron and Julio. Both made the 13 kilometer trek in 2 hours – a serious butt-kicking. “Cheesus Crise!” Julio said as he sat down. “Jour son is trying to keel me.”

We heard some music that sounded like from an ancient time. We hurried to check in, but there was no hurrying the process. And so we got another lesson in patience.

I had had two blisters between my toes, so the going was a bit tough. When we reached the square, situated right by the church, under some very old trees that shaded a stage, we saw children in elaborate, very starched white dresses with colorful flowers on them. They danced some old folk dances while throwing shy glances at their beaming parents. We were starving, but found out that everything was closed due to the fiesta to come. I would have thought that a priest or two would care for these hungry pilgrims. What are pilgrims to do on days like this? I had read about locals coming with water or food to greet the pilgrims. Well, I don’t know how long ago this was, but we sure haven’t seen anyone, except hungry feral cats. We did find a restaurant open and ate a fairly decent meal, but it cost 50 Euros. As Julio says, “the fleecing of the peregrinos”.

Carrie is catching a cold, and I hoped wasn’t getting worse. I can feel my throat tickle, and I groaned inwardly about yet another malady. We showered and changed, washed clothes, and arranged Quasimodo’s ride to the next town, since I really can’t carry mine with all these issues.

We wanted to visit the church, but due to the fiesta, it was closed. This is a smaller town, and rural, so I would imagine they would take their fiesta pretty seriously. During the fiesta, I had two bowls of the best soup ever!

Santo Domingo de la Calzado to Belarado – This Post Sponsored by Ibuprofen

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Navarette, Azrofa, Santo Domingo de la Calzado

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Supporting Treatment

Inge is a fighter. She beat cancer after grueling surgeries and chemotherapy 11 years ago, and she walked nearly 500 miles across Spain, in late 2011, in part because she hoped the returning cancer might just go away on its own. But the Emperor of All Maladies, as it’s been called, is still with her.

She’s been sent to test after test, and there are probably more tests, and treatments, to come.  We’ve been asked for an easier way for her friends and supporters to help out with the expenses, so here we invite anyone who has been touched by her or her story either to (1) buy the amazing book True History of the Camino de Santiago, written by Inge’s son, Cameron, or (2) donate any amount you choose toward her treatment. Subscribe with your email, above right, to watch Inge’s progress.

See what the True History of the Camino de Santiago book is all about: www.TrueHistoryCaminodeSantiago.com.

Donate:

 

Below are two little movies we made of Inge on the Camino de Santiago. We think they show her passionate, fighting spirit quite well.

Watch Inge Symbolically Leaving Her Cancer at the Iron Cross

In Santiago at Last: How She’ll Look Once She Beats the Emperor Again!

You can donate any amount you wish. Buen Camino!

An Audience with El Notario

El Notario was a very sober man. Small, neat, with a short-sleeved white shirt and a modest tie (so modest it bordered on immodesty), he exuded authority and self-assurance.

Julio made sure to legitimate me right away.

El es un abogado de Princeton,” he said.

“Harvard,” I said.  The Spaniards thought this was funny.

El Notario placed before us the documents that Eva had drawn up. He verified Julio’s identity and made him swear to translate faithfully (Julio would violate this by saying “blah blah blah” over extensive portions of the document). The documents contained so much legalese that even when they were upside-down, an American lawyer could read them: Latin is still the lingua franca of the legalist. They said that Don Cameron Christopher Powell did not understand Spanish, and that Don Julio Angel Redondo Garcia was acting as interpreter and translator. They also appeared to say that they had no real legal effect.

When all the preliminaries had been completed, El Notario reached for a Bic pen and held it up before me as if he were putting Excalibur into my care. He held up my passport before me and pointed at my signature as if to say, “It should look like this”. (Perhaps he did say that). I signed my name in two places.

He appeared to think we were done.

I explained to Julio that a document with only my signature on it would not be useful to the American authorities, who rather expected that the State, County, signature, and commission expiration would be filled out by a notary on the same document, and who would neither look at nor understand the beautifully produced four-page instrument that Eva had so carefully prepared for El Notario’s stylish signature.

To my dismay, El Notario was not reaching for his pen. “Notaries in Spain never expire,” Julio translated. “Their license to print money is forever, perhaps beyond death.”

“Could he write ‘No expiration’?”

Sadly, he could not.

He told us to come back in an hour, so that the separate, Spanish documents could be changed to reflect the fact he would be applying his pen to the English-language document. Like a man sitting in a cab from New York to Washington, D.C., I could see the meter ticking upward.

But there was one good thing to come of it all. “For the rest of Camino,” I told Julio. “You will call me Don Cameron.”

From Pamplona to “Ave Maria” in Los Arcos

Pamplona to Cizur Menor

I didn’t walk from Pamplona, as I was feeling very shaky.  I thought perhaps it was due to low

Lunch in Cizur Menor

blood sugar (the H’s hurt with each step) and I just couldn’t face even walking four miles.  Carrie, Marie Anne, and I took a cab with Cameron’s pack too.  In Cizur Menor was a lovely albergue, with a small pool filled with goldfish and turtles, blooming hydrangeas and other lovely foliage.  It was more like a small resort.  Julio cooked again and we sat outside and ate pasta.  I was pretty tired and in bed by 8:30.  I slept well until all the snoring started.  I got up at 2 for the bathroom again, then at 3:10 and once more at 4.  At 5:30 I gave up to handle my dental issues and have a cup of tea.

To Puente La Reina

We started out at 7:30 and walked approximately 8km, had a decent lunch, and walked through beautiful countryside that reminded me of Tuscany.  We had to climb up another hill, and down a rocky path, but the view on both sides and around us was well worth it.  Large fields, now empty and harvested, cypresses and blackberry bushes.  My foot started to hurt and it was getting hot, but I will not complain.

Finally, we came to Puente La Reina.  Beautiful old monastery. Upon arrival we were told that our backpacks hadn’t made it.  Julio took over, helpful as usual, helping us immensely with language.  We had the packs brought by taxi.  Marie Anne and I tried to find a grocery store, but, it being Saturday and a fiesta for running the bulls, everything was closed.  Lots of movement in town, with people sitting all over outside, picturesque houses again, with lots of flowers.

We went to see the old bridge and I took pictures.  Got the rest of our little family and

Puente La Reina

went to see the bulls being run.  A DJ played good loud music and Marie Anne and I danced.  It was so much fun.  Then the two little bulls came running up and down the street as young men tried to touch their horns.  The bulls sure looked tired after a while, but it was all in good fun.

Julio found a store and we invited a young man who has been walking from England since June.  Carrie has made a friend.  An older gentleman and artist.

Estella

Estella.  I call her the elusive, because I was under the impression that the town was only 19km from Puente La Reina, but the walk seemed to go on for a long time.  Problem was we got a late start due to some miscommunication, so we were behind everyone.  The path looked in some places like Douglas Pass, or in any case like the road to the Black Canyon.  We walked up the hill and I was really breathing hard.  When I reached the top, there was the little family giving me a standing ovation.  Then

Julio interrogates an olive tree

we saw lovely vineyards, hills, olive trees, and figs.  Julio picked some of each and offered them to me to make up for the lack of veggies.  Later, Julio cooked a whole pot of pasta, which we shared with others.

My legs are sunburned and red like lobsters.

The Way of the Camino

The way of the Camino is such that everyone, regardless of nationality or religion, is

English lasses with ready medical supplies

immediately helping.  The sharing and caring makes it so worthwhile.  They don’t ask your interpretation of the Bible before they’re willing to help.  No one holds himself above another.  Sometimes the aid is as small as a band-aid.  Other times, people stop and dig through their entire backpack to find what you may need.  People call out a friendly “Hola!” when the pass, and everyone wishes you “Buen Camino”.

When I rest for a minute to catch my breath, the ones who pass always ask if I’m okay.

The Long Road to Los Arcos

Morning came early and we hurried to get started, as I could not face another day with most of the time in 100 degrees Fahrenheit.  Our journey today will be 21km to Los Arcos.  Again we made a good start in the cool morning mist.  The stars were shining and we heard the click-clack of the walking poles. (I have two BFFs, Preparation H and ibuprofen).  The many hills that I have to climb don’t elicit any more comments from me.  It is what it is.

The last two-plus kilometers were really, really hot, and it was all I could do to place one foot in front of the other.  Finally, we see Los Arcos, and I was soooo glad.  (It turned out to be 24km).

When we got inside the albergue, Julio was already there, helping us with the credentials.  The front desk was staffed with volunteers.  When it was my turn, one of them barked at me, “Do you speak English?”  I said “Yes”.  Then she said, “Well, how come he” – Julio – “has to do this for you?”  I didn’t understand her attitude or what she was getting at, and I said, “I’m sorry, but I feel really sick, and right now I can’t even manage my name.”

She looked at me and said, in the same tone, “What do you want me to do?”

I was so exhausted and in pain that this was all it took to make me tear up, and I said, “For what I have, there’s nothing you can do.”  Tears flowed freely, and I wondered whether we had walked into a prison camp by mistake.  Then my son took over and told her in no uncertain terms what he thought of her and her sour attitude.  Then Julio, in Spanish, said many words.  I stumbled off to find the dormitory before I collapsed, led by my son.

The Mourning Father

After a shower and a rest, I felt somewhat improved once more, and we decided to go and look at the cathedral.  When we opened the heavy, ornate door, I stood speechless in front of the golden splendor and beauty.  Gold, carvings, painted walls, and stunning decoration.  As we stood to gaze at some statues, Cameron put his hand on my lower back, where the tumor resides, and I felt the energy, and I was choked up and couldn’t speak.

I lit five candles, for four of my loved ones who had passed, and for the son of my friend Pat, her only son, who died last year not long after his marriage.  She misses him so.  After he died, instead of giving her a card, I had given her a small, potted tree for her to plant.

We sat in silence in the pews, when suddenly, there was this grand voice, starting “Ave Maria”.  We looked up in surprise, and I saw a lone man with both hands stretched before him, imploring the statute of Mary, who had her place of honor in the center of the altar.  His voice was brimming with emotion, and I started to cry.  I was remembering how violinists played “Ave Maria” at my brother Gunter’s wedding to Elfriede, and they were so beautiful and young.

Looking over at Marie Anne, I saw her crying too.  Everyone had stopped to sit or stand and listen.  Then the singer paused, and after a moment, he started another “Ave Maria”.  He went on for over ten minutes.  His voice carried, and the acoustics were phenomenal.  By this time, I was no longer thinking that he was singing from religious devotion, but from some other emotion.

He came down, and people approached him to shake his hand and thank him for his beautiful gift.  I also shook his hand and he said something in French, which I didn’t understand.  I just placed my hand over my heart to let him know how he touched me.  We walked to the courtyard and I was still wiping my face when I found out that he sang as a tribute to his son, who had died a short time ago, and that today would have been his birthday.  I looked at him as tears streamed down his face, and there was such deep pain (I cry as I write this).  I folded him into my arms and he sobbed, in English, “My son, my son”.

I could only touch my heart in silent communication.  Everyone – Cameron, Julio, Marie Anne, and a few others – was openly weeping now.  Later, when we returned to the albergue, we told the story, and everyone wanted to hear him sing.  They were affected the same way.

Morning Meditations in Logrono

It’s a crisp morning in Logrono.  It’s going to be another beautiful day in Spain, if perhaps a bit hot, especially given our late start.  The women have gone ahead, while Julio and I sit in a café-bar called Ibiza and consume bocadillos and café con leche (me) and hot chocolate (Julio).  Julio reads El Pais, one of the national papers, and translates for me the occasional outrage.  Julio often sounds outraged, but you don’t ever detect

Julio sweetly presents Carrie with a stolen flower

real anger, resentment, or bad faith.  It’s more of a stance, like performance art done by someone who’s a comic at heart.

I’m now sitting at a table outside Ibiza, opposite a park.  The streets are largely deserted.  The dearth of thinking I have done on where I shall live, or what I shall write, or what direction to take next in my vocations, is more than a little surprising.  There was a time when I could not get certain topics off my mind.  Now I can walk and have nary a thought enter my head that’s aimed more than a few hours into the future.

But I must credit my instinct with knowing what I need, and apparently what I need is, truly, a break from the thinking and weighing and analysis.  Indeed, yesterday I had an intimation, a sense, that the detachment I feel from the life I led before the trip would prove to be fertile ground for feeling my way into what’s next.  I had the sense that I needed to quiet the chatter of before so as to be receptive to the whisperings of what I might want now.  This is a change from what I expected, which was to have ideas drop into my head via the alchemical process of walking meditatively.

Some of the Spanish cheeses are delicious.  Yesterday I discovered ventero, a soft cheese reminiscent of freshly-made parmesan.

I’m hoping Mom’s ailments do not worsen.  It would be ironic if, on this spiritual-

Mom claps along in Puente La Reina

emotional-health pilgrimage, her health deteriorated simply because she could not get access to the food she needed.  Her diet in the U.S. is so rarefied and esoteric (compared to what now passes for nutrition in our country) that she usually has to shop and cook for herself to stay on it.  It’s even more difficult to be a vegan in Spain than in the U.S., and that’s not even counting the pilgrim’s diet.  To eat as a vegan here would require her to do more investigation in each town, walk farther, and spend considerably more.

But her spirits are indefatigable.  There is so much life in her that it’s unimaginable that it could leave her anytime soon.

Soaking the feet

A Visit to the Notary

ADVENTURE

ABOUT US

In early 2001, Mom (Inge) was diagnosed with Stage 3 ovarian cancer.  She had surgery and then grueling chemotherapy.  Already a gourmet chef, she changed the food she bought and how she cooked it.  And she held off the cancer for a decade.

In around May 2010, the periodic tests she underwent revealed three new growths in her pelvis, lung, and neck.  She responded by even more radically altering her diet, lost fifty pounds, and, six months later, saw one growth disappear and another grow smaller.  One stayed the same.  In July 2011, she had the tumor in her lung removed; a biopsy showed it had shrunk yet again, from 12 to 9 millimeters, but that it was cancerous.

In the weeks before her surgery, though, Inge had decided she wanted to walk the Camino de Santiago, in northern Spain.  She began training on the trails around the Black Canyon, and convinced her son, Cameron, to go to Spain with her.

Inge was born in Erlangen, Germany, in 1944, and, after stints as a governess in Bavaria and England, as a student at the Cordon Bleu School of Cooking, and as a flight attendant in New York City, she emigrated to the United States, in 1963.  She now lives in Montrose, Colorado.

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From Viana to Logroño

ADVENTURE

ABOUT US

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WHAT PEOPLE SAY

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Julia Duncan
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Ryan Dyson

Viana and the Monastic Life

Recipes

I don’t know for a fact that the food I eat will reduce or eliminate your cancer or other illness, but I do know what healthy food has done for me and many others.  I’m a gourmet chef, with training at the Cordon Bleu School of Cooking in Paris, and I’ve put together some amazing menus of food that

  • tastes great and
  • is based on the latest science on how to starve cancer cells by depriving them of their primary foods:  fats, sugars, and other toxins.

I share my recipes, the stories behind them, in the blog.  Click here to enjoy!

La Bruja en Los Arcos

ADVENTURE

ABOUT US

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WHAT PEOPLE SAY

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Julia Duncan
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Miranda Collins
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Ryan Dyson

Toward Los Arcos and the Heisenberg Uncertainty Principle

The End of Childhood is the End of Certainty

I won’t get into how, but I found myself explaining to Carrie what I know of the imago, or our image of what attracts us in a mate, and the operation of transference, rationalization, the unconscious, and denial.

The moment we realize that our parents, teachers, or other mentors are flawed – that they are human – is the end of innocence.  The god-like are seen in all their messy humanity.  To come to see the limitations of those we look up to and depend upon is a necessary, if painful, rite of passage.  But not everyone makes this passage.  Not everyone is ready, in this sense, to grow up.

The fundamentalist, the narcissist, the dependent and the victim for example, will simply double-down, insisting on their belief in certainty, such as in someone’s infallibility (in the case of the narcissist, his own), or the inerrancy and clarity of a text.  The fundamentalist purports to see absolute clarity in texts that are not only not clear, but were never claimed to be clear by anyone at anytime before Darwin.  The entirety of modern-day American-style fundamentalism is not “fundamental” to the Bible at all, but a relatively recent invention of the mid-1800s.  Rapture theology, for example, did not occur to anyone before it occurred to the Englishman John Darby in the 1830s.  How clear could it be?

But in the black-and-white, in easy answers, there is comfort and certainty, and comfort and certainty were never needed so much as when Darwin’s natural selection and geologist George Lyell’s dating of rocks, in the mid-1800s, both showed the earth to be far older than a literal reading of the Biblical myths would suggest.  Indeed, before the advent of science and reason in the Enlightenment, which was terrifying to some of the pious (and which Republican presidential candidate Michele Bachmann recently, and revealingly, identified as the root of all of America’s problems), no religion ever insisted upon the historicity of their sacred texts.  They did not take it literally.  They saw the tales as mythos, the stuff of finding meaning and of understanding the sacred, and not as logos, the province of fact, rationality, history – or science.

Once you confuse mythos with logos, it becomes difficult to think clearly.  Once you start building museum dioramas, as one can now find in Kentucky, in which humans frolic with dinosaurs, purportedly only a few thousand years ago, you will have so successfully rejected science that you are now at liberty to dispute without either evidence or science-based rebuttal the nearly universal conclusion of scientists worldwide that the earth is warming dangerously.  The same science that sends people into space, powers GPS, runs your cell phone, and heals the sick is dismissed when it runs into conflict with our beliefs, tribal mores, or other indices of identity.

If we are meaning-seeking creatures, then it is great comfort for meaning to come easily, and for answers to be readily at hand.  Humans fear few things so much as uncertainty.  The unknown has always been terrifying to our species.  And so we may seek to remain in, or return to, the comforts, the lack of uncertainty, of childhood.

On the Cushion

Yesterday morning I found myself once again thinking, Now, why am I doing this again….this Camino?  Is it fun?  If it is, will it remain fun?  Is fun even the right question?  I have slowed down a great deal, but apparently not so much that I have stopped craving more stimulation than is available.  Rural trails, small towns largely emptied of the young (or the middle-aged), few cafes, no night life.  I don’t even have books.  I suppose I could download more onto my MacBook’s Kindle app, but lights go out at ten.

Here is what is different.  I am not doing much on online dating sites.  I don’t check my phone for emails or texts – there are none there.  I’m not doing any coaching, and sending and receiving few emails about it.  Some of the Tourette’s tics (but only Type I – I don’t get to shout or curse, damnit) are largely in remission.  Because Tourette’s is exacerbated by stress, I take this as the clearest, most objective evidence of change.  One tic that had become quite prominent over the summer arose from an urge to pop my left knee as you might crack your knuckles.  I haven’t seen it in about a week.

Yes, this is embarrassing.  I’m out now.

And I’m still not giving much thought to where to live.  The house in Bend already seems a memory.  By the time I return, it will be completely out of mind – just as my things will be out of the house and in storage.  I may never see it again, and that’s all right.  The letting go really sped up in the end, surprising my expectations.

Nevertheless, I am reminded of meditation retreats, where people may at times find themselves wanting to run away, screaming.  But that is exactly the point of watching the mind.  You will eventually see things that you aren’t keen to see.  Resentment, cravings, attachments, irritability, annoyance, jealousy, rage, desire, rejection, discomfort.  Meditation doesn’t make the unpleasantness of the outside world go away – it brings our relationship with the outside world into sharp focus.  The path to any kind of enlightenment isn’t filled with peak moments.

You could even say the path doesn’t go anywhere in particular.  The goal may simply be to stay on the path, the middle path, in which we neither cling to, indulge in, or identify with, nor push away, reject, repress, or condemn.  We may choose either erroneous path out of a craving for certainty, whether the need to have an identity or an explanation we can cling to, or the need to reject what is going on in order to hold on to the storylines we have, or to avoid painful feelings.  The middle path is the one where we observe our experience without judgment (pushing away) and without attaching ourselves to it (clinging).  Only then can we see clearly, and make decisions rooted in what we know to be best for us.

To Los Arcos

Monday morning. Woke up many times in the night, and knew I was sick.  I can feel it in my chest.  Further dreams of seeing clearly, and of letting go.  I decided to take the bus to Los Arcos (“The Bows,” named for the decisive role archers played in winning a great battle) rather than suffer through a 20k walk.  Mom and Carrie sent their bags ahead and the group of four left me at the bus station.  At the bus station I ran into three young Israeli women whom I’d seen prior albergues, and two Lebanese women I met last night.  I helped them find the right bus and introduced them all to one another.  The countryside we passed through was gorgeous, all greens and browns and yellows, everywhere rolling hills and citadels and iglesias, and granite cliffs in the distance.

Once in Los Arcos, I walked around for a bit, finding the stores (drinkable yogurt,potato chips, muesli bars), the public hostel (albergue municipal, always the cheapest), and a Café-Bar called Abascal, where I had a green-and-red-pepper omelette bocadillo and tea.  I leafed through a Spanish magazine and got caught up on which American celebrities are sleeping with which other American celebrities.  I still don’t understand who Kim Kardashian is, or why she is.  I especially can’t understand what would justify the Spanish caring.

In the tiny plaza outside Abascal I sit abreast of my new amigos, or the local retired community of hombres.  A seventy-something man walks back and forth over the 35 yards as if counting steps, as if trying to catch the distance in the act of being different on just one of his passes, and thus reveal even una plaza to be subject to the Heisenberg Uncertainty Principle, one big cosmic joke.

Puente La Reina and the Running of the Small Bulls

On Saturday night in Puente La Reina we walked the 300 meters to the main plaza, where carpenters were putting the finishing touches on elevated platforms in the shape of a rectangle with three sides, with the missing side opening into the main street.  In this street two mid-size, or at least economy, bulls were run back and forth to exhaustion by a band of teenagers, gelled up, in sneakers and soccer shorts, and a few old hands, one of whom did actually get one of the bulls by the horns for a few seconds.  A brass band comprised of men in their fifties and sixties, and a long-haired youthful tuba player, was entirely drowned out by a DJ spinning modern pop for a group of dancing adults, each holding a beer in one hand and the beat in the other.

In the same plaza, in 1315 and again in 1345, two Jewish men were burned alive as sodomites, so the use of running bulls as public sport could reasonably be seen by some as an improvement.  Last night, it was a young man who got the raw end of the deal when he didn’t get out of bull’s way soon enough, and found its horns dug into his back, throwing him face-down onto the street, where he could be seen lying until he was surrounded by the locals who ran to him.

In semi-autonomous Catalonia, the last bullfight was just conducted last night.  The Catalonian legislature has outlawed the practice, though it’s unclear if it was on grounds of animal cruelty, the subsidies the sport was increasingly requiring from local governments, or the EU’s opposition to effectively subsidizing farms that were producing bulls for activities illegal elsewhere in Europe.

In the morning, Julio was dyspeptic.  It was going to be nearly 100 degrees, he said, and we were starting much too late.  “We should have started at quarter past six,” he said.  “It’s going to melt all the Camino.”

The Walk to Estella — 24km

Puente La Reina to Estella.  24 km, very hot, some climbing and descending.  The country has grown drier since the lush riverside we found on the way to Pamplona.  We walked through vineyards for much of the day.  The others found the heat overbearing, but for some reason, perhaps that I was the only one wearing a thin wool shirt (which wicks and breathes), it didn’t bother me much.  My feet offered me the least pain of the trip so far.

In Cirauque, a Basque term meaning “nest of vipers,” we came upon the cobbled stones and flagstone borders of a Roman road, and, after a while, a Roman bridge.  While most of the Camino follows the Roman Via Traiana, the best-preserved remains of the entire route are here.  But the Roman road continued only for a few kilometers, until “improvements” by Camino designers covered it up.  Then we wound through more dry, beautiful country, through hills where hermits came to live a thousand years ago, including in the still-extant Ermita de San Miguel.

In a tunnel, amongst the graffiti, someone had written, “The Camino has nothing to do with Compostela.  The Camino is right here, right now.”  Which is true.  The camino, or way, is not about where you end up.  It’s how you choose to perceive and respond to the right here, right now.

Communication on the Camino 

Communication on the Camino can be a curious thing.  Many languages are spoken, but the main two are Spanish and English, the latter being the lingua franca in most conversations in which the speakers aren’t from the same country.  The Asians seem to be the most at sea; very few of them speak even a little English, and they have no Spanish at all.  How brave they are to come here anyway.  They keep largely to themselves.

Communication between bikers and walkers is almost non-existent.  So far I have heard only one biker use a bell to signal his approach.  None have announced themselves by words.  And what would they say?  Even among English speakers, it can be confusing for hikers to share a trail with bikers.

“On your left!” bikers say, signaling where they are.

To the left a surprised or even terrified hiker jumps, right into the path of the biker.

Or take this example of on-trail communication.  I was in the lead, and passed a lone sneaker that someone had tossed onto the orange furrows of a ploughed field.  “Shoe alert!” I said, pointing with my right stick.

“What did he say?” my mother said, in third position.

“I think he saw something but I didn’t catch the first word,” Carrie said, in second.

“Oh!” says Mom.  “A bird?”

“What bird?” demands Julio, in fourth position.

This is how legends, myths, and religious stories get passed down, not to mention fabulist tales such as that of President Obama being a foreign-born Muslim planted here nearly 50 years ago by Al Quaeda for nefarious ends.

Walking into the Future: Pamplona to Puente La Reina

We spent a few hours yesterday in a café-bar in Pamplona.  The woman tending bar there thought I looked like a certain actor.  I left to get a haircut.  Several places offered them for 30 Euros, but I found one that was available for only 18 if you were willing to get your cheek cut with a razor.  When I got back to the bar, the bartender said, “You are very handsome today.”  Today.  Mom thought this was just grand.

Morning, Zubiri.  Is it really necessary that pilgrimages begin before first light?  I can just as well do my penance in daylight.

“Well,” said Julio, from his bed, “there was no concert,” said Julio, “last night.”

“Oh yes there was,” Mom said.  “David and my son.  My son snored all night.  I was hoping someone would adopt him.”

An ever-smiling woman from Salt Lake, Lela, heard of my mother’s struggles to get some healthy food and handed her some packets of greenness, some kind of dietary supplement.  She refused to take payment.  She asked to see the calf.

“Got some mental blocks today, eh?”  She was under the impression that my calf issue was, in addition to being psychosomatic, something new.

“If I’ve got mental problems they pre-date today,” I said.  “But I was very handsome yesterday.”

She began to massage the calf.  “Oh, it’s very hot,” she said.  “You do have some inflammation there.”  After a bit, she hugged and kissed Mom, saying, “You’re so cool!” and took her pack and was off.  I don’t think she had stopped smiling since the day before.

We said goodbye to the turtles in the pond, to the grounds of the albergue in some disrepair, and the hopeful, half-finished second-floor addition that had been interrupted when the Jesus y Maria albergue in nearby Pamplona came about.  And then we left Cizur Menor.

Stiff and tender.  The left calf, of course, and now a flash of pain in whatever that part of the foot is called that’s at the very top.  Thankfully it was on the same foot, so one limp took care of both of them.  So I had that going for me.  We had 19 kilometers to cover.

It was beautiful country.  It put me in mind of both Northern California and Tuscany.  Once again we were blessed by the weather gods.  Stick, stick, stick.  I did some walking meditation as I’d learned it from the Shambhala Center in Portland, attending to the feeling of the feet hitting the ground, the way they rolled, the feel in my ankles and knees and hips.  It was good.

“Walking into the future”.  A nice thought, that of walking toward Santiago and arriving in my future – with firmer ideas of where

I’d live, for example, and what writing projects I might do — but it’s still just a story, not a reality.  I have thought many times that I have seen or felt the last of something, or someone, and been wrong.  For example, coming here I thought certain things were behind me.  But there last night, defeating all storylines, was an email from someone who shall remain nameless, declaring me responsible for all the bad that had happened in the world in the last half-century, with the possible exceptions of the Kennedy assassinations, the modern concept of jihad, and U.S. representative Michelle Bachmann.

So sometimes I was not in the present, the only place joy is found.  Sometimes I was in the past, and at others, I was in the future.

Ungrateful . . . take responsibility . . . victim . . . ow . . . foot . . . get those personality disorders under control . . . hungry . . . interesting landscape . . . wind turbines . . . like north of San Francisco . . . OKCupid . . .  New York . . . thirsty . . . chocolate . . .

Mom sang German lullabyes.  I filmed one of them.  “I used to sing that when you were young,” she said.  “Before I started yelling.”

“Ah, you didn’t yell that much.”

“I know.  I was just always so stressed out.  I always wanted it to be later on so I couldn’t be in the moment.  ‘If it was only ten years from now,’ I’d say.  Now I’d do anything to get those years back.”  Stick, stick, stick.  “But I could never have imagined in a million years I’d be here.”  She then gave thanks to her beloved brother Gunter, now deceased fourteen years, and his wife Elfriede.  “Because Gunter earned it, and Elfriede saved it and then passed some of it on to me when she left.”

 

I asked Julio about women.

“Well,” he said, as if approaching a subject of some enormity.  “I am using –“ he stopped and searched for a word.  “I have been using—“

“In English we say hookers,” I prompted.

“No, not hookers.  That was in Cuba.  Recently I put an advertisement for someone to travel around the world.  For one year.  Man or woman.  Most of the responses I received were from women.  And they were not so interested in traveling as in finding a husband.  So that’s that.  Maybe I will try again.”

“But what about dating?”

“I tried twice and it did not work.”

“I don’t mean Marie Anne.  Dating now.”

What he said was complicated, but it seemed to involve his lack of interest in women who either spent all day before the mirror or wanted men to repay several hundred years of chauvinism immediately.  “And when they start talking about a family I go the other way,” he said.

“Do you think you could be what we call a commitment-phobe, Julio?”

“Maybe,” he said.  “It could be.”

“I used to think I was.  I thought the solution would be to get married.”

“Of course,” he said, as if it were the most obvious thing in the world.

 

Puente La Reina.  The public albergue charges only 4 euros, and we sleep in rooms of eight.  I met a social worker from Tel Aviv, Schlomit, who had heard of the Camino only two months ago, a young Brit, Jethro, who’s been walking for three months, from Britain, and an Italian, Marco, who runs a hostel in southern Brazil.  Mom and I explained to Jethro that English accents make everything sound more intelligent and more funny.  And he was in fact quite witty.  He said he was out of money, so I invited him to join us for dinner with the understanding that he would entertain.  He didn’t disappoint. Marie Anne had somehow turned rice and mushrooms and other ingredients into something like a great risotto.  Marco also joined us for dinner.  He and Jethro and I watched YouTube videos of James Brown, and then we all went to bed.

Real Obstacles

I don’t mind pain.  It’s damage that concerns me.

Today I seem to have struck a new collective bargaining agreement with the unions that operate my right calf, but the left is implacably opposed to my designs.  In past days it would warm up once I began walking, until at some point I usually could barely feel it anymore.  But today the soreness and tightness persisted for all of Julio’s and my 5K walk from Pamplona to Cizur Menor.  I suppose it’s possible to limp another 470 miles.  I can manage some pain and inconvenience.  But is it wise?  Could I be doing permanent damage?

Pamplona

Pamplona is a fine little town of around 200,000 people.  The old part of town has narrow cobbled streets and a cathedral with fine examples of medieval art.  The other jewel is the Plaza del Castillo, surrounded by fine buildings with metal work and balconies reminiscent of New Orleans.

Hemingway wrote of the town with great affection.  He is the one who drew worldwide attention to the Festival of St. Fermin, also known as the Running of the Bulls.  The places where he ate and drank – and Hemingway seemed to enjoy only writing about shooting and killing more than he loved writing about eating and drinking – have been prominently marked by their owners.  We tried to have a morning coffee in the Iruna Café, full of elaborate carving and glazed mirrors, but its announced 8a.m. opening time was apparently aspirational.  At about 8:20 I jokingly suggested that Julio alert some nearby policia, who came over to take a look into the café after he called to them.  I was hoping they would batter down the door, or at least drag the owner out of bed, but after a brief conversation they departed.

Marie Anne said I spoke Spanish with a South American accent, and spoke, or maybe it’s more correct to say pronounced, French with — well, she didn’t have a word, she just glowered and mimicked spitting out the words.  “Very grrrr!”

“It’s Vichy French,” I said.  She burst out laughing.

Mom’s energy was quickly waning.  She felt dizzy and lacked the energy to walk.  Was it because of the diet here?  “They think ham is a vegetable,” she told a young peregrina from Germany yesterday.  She’s expressing a lot of surprise at how different her energy is compared to when she’s able to eat her healthy diet.  Once we were in Cizur, though, Marie Anne, who was born in Morocco, made a wonderful meal of cous-cous mixed with salad.  I took her suggestion of adding salt and cumen.

In Pamplona… no bull

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The ultimate Camino de Santiago Journey

I was married, briefly.  The nature channels tell me there are penguins with longer relationships.

By the time a judge brought down the curtain, my mother and I were six thousand miles away, standing at a waystation on a yellow-arrowed path, like characters in some 21st century update to the Wizard of Oz.  My mother wanted a cure for her cancer, or at least a break from “all the cutting and poison”, as she put it.  I hadn’t believed there were any answers for my uncertainties high on the wild-dog-infested and wind-swept spine of a mountain range in northern Spain, so I had sort of convinced myself I wanted nothing.

I stood at the foot of a high rubbled mound.  I was holding my new

Ordinary-Magic-Book-Cover-Fotor-Low

THE WORLD

IS YOUR HOME

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NEW ADVENTURE

I stood at the foot of a high rubbled mound. I was holding my new

Camino de Santiago start
Inge in Bilbao, Spain, days before starting the Camino de Santiago

Nikon SLR, which I’d just bought from Costco via the rationale of this very trip. The video was on: Mom had talked about this moment for months, and I am nothing if not a catcher, or perhaps I mean a chaser, of moments. She was picking her way up the mound, through the powdery gray and white rocks. My fifteen-year-old second-cousin, Carrie, had abandoned her massive backpack and was watching the scene from my left. In a field to my right an older man, very tall, sturdy boots, backpack, was weeping.

Camino de Santiago Cruz de Ferro
Offerings left behind at the Camino de Santiago’s Cruz de Ferro

The mound was pierced at its summit by a thirty-foot-tall oak post, about as big around as a telephone pole. The very top of the post was fitted with an iron cap, like the sort of hat an English bulldog might wear, if an English bulldog had scored an audience with the Queen. For a structure with the grand appellation of El Cruz de Ferro, an old Spanish-Latin term that means Cross of Iron, the cap supported an almost comically tiny iron cross whose three free arms ended in fleurs-de-lis. For thousands of years, some version of the Cruz de Ferro had spied on countless pilgrims – first Pagan, later Catholic, now mostly Pagan again – as they formed meaning out of this very waystation.

For thousands of years a mound of rocks marked the summit of this mountain range. A million pilgrims before us had built up the mound with hand-placed relics from their own private rituals of letting go: of anger, of grief, of resentment, of illness – letting go even of the fear of death. Because that is what people do on pilgrimages, of any kind, whether they mean to or not. They let go. That’s what the verb to forgive means. To forgive others, and, harder yet, to forgive oneself. Jesus was telling us what he knew about forgiveness, but the bastards killed him before he could show us how to forgive ourselves.

An ancient tradition held that pilgrims should bring to the Cruz, from their own homes, a small stone and a more personal item, and to leave them behind at the Cross. My mother was now placing, among the rocks, a small stone she’d carried from an ancient canyon near her house in Colorado. Previous pilgrims had also brought and left behind other, more telling things. A tube of lipstick. A postcard of Bruges, scrawled in a woman’s hand. Folded pieces of paper and fragments of words in Spanish and English, German and Dutch, Korean and Basque. Underwear that raised certain questions. A Matchbox car that looked to my inner-nine-year-old’s eye like a ’68 Corvette, give or take two years. A toy soldier – missing a leg, poor bastard – and the half-eaten cookie on which he’d been subsisting among the pebbles.

On the wooden pole itself I could make out a tacked-up orange baseball cap and a clip-less biking pedal, a gourd on a string, a black-and-white photo of a European peasant family, circa 1930s, a 1970s photo of a boy, in a shirt with blue stripes, holding a Bible, a pre-printed fortune cookie’s fortune: Do not throw the butts into the urinal, for they are subtle, and quick to anger. I saw a Prada label, an AC Milan futbol jersey, and a broken pair of cheap sunglasses. A German pilgrim had erected a small German flag among the rocks. Not to be outdone, so had a Belgian. Or vice versa, let’s not start another war.

My mother, still with her back to my cousin and me, had reached the top of the mound. The Iron Cross now loomed over her, standing stoutly in the wind. She bowed her head and pulled her second, more personal offering from a pocket in her field jacket. She cupped it with both hands and held it over her head, a modest proposal to the cosmos about what she should be allowed to let go of. When I saw her shoulders start to shake I began to cry, too, but quietly, because I was the expedition videographer, not to mention its chief biographer, photographer, legal counsel, and practicing podiatrist.

I handed the camera to Carrie and went to join my mother.

100_1652
SAM_1968

Roncesvalles to Zubiri to Pamplona

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ORDINARY MAGIC

I was married, briefly.  The nature channels tell me there are penguins with longer relationships.

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Exotic Routes
Ulllamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat.
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Weekend Trips
Minim veniam, quis nostrud ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip
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Great Shots
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Friendly Guides
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Read Our Story

The ultimate Camino de Santiago Journey

I was married, briefly.  The nature channels tell me there are penguins with longer relationships.

By the time a judge brought down the curtain, my mother and I were six thousand miles away, standing at a waystation on a yellow-arrowed path, like characters in some 21st century update to the Wizard of Oz.  My mother wanted a cure for her cancer, or at least a break from “all the cutting and poison”, as she put it.  I hadn’t believed there were any answers for my uncertainties high on the wild-dog-infested and wind-swept spine of a mountain range in northern Spain, so I had sort of convinced myself I wanted nothing.

I stood at the foot of a high rubbled mound.  I was holding my new

Ordinary-Magic-Book-Cover-Fotor-Low

THE WORLD

IS YOUR HOME

blockuote-white.png
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt.
andre gide

NEW ADVENTURE

I stood at the foot of a high rubbled mound. I was holding my new

Camino de Santiago start
Inge in Bilbao, Spain, days before starting the Camino de Santiago

Nikon SLR, which I’d just bought from Costco via the rationale of this very trip. The video was on: Mom had talked about this moment for months, and I am nothing if not a catcher, or perhaps I mean a chaser, of moments. She was picking her way up the mound, through the powdery gray and white rocks. My fifteen-year-old second-cousin, Carrie, had abandoned her massive backpack and was watching the scene from my left. In a field to my right an older man, very tall, sturdy boots, backpack, was weeping.

Camino de Santiago Cruz de Ferro
Offerings left behind at the Camino de Santiago’s Cruz de Ferro

The mound was pierced at its summit by a thirty-foot-tall oak post, about as big around as a telephone pole. The very top of the post was fitted with an iron cap, like the sort of hat an English bulldog might wear, if an English bulldog had scored an audience with the Queen. For a structure with the grand appellation of El Cruz de Ferro, an old Spanish-Latin term that means Cross of Iron, the cap supported an almost comically tiny iron cross whose three free arms ended in fleurs-de-lis. For thousands of years, some version of the Cruz de Ferro had spied on countless pilgrims – first Pagan, later Catholic, now mostly Pagan again – as they formed meaning out of this very waystation.

For thousands of years a mound of rocks marked the summit of this mountain range. A million pilgrims before us had built up the mound with hand-placed relics from their own private rituals of letting go: of anger, of grief, of resentment, of illness – letting go even of the fear of death. Because that is what people do on pilgrimages, of any kind, whether they mean to or not. They let go. That’s what the verb to forgive means. To forgive others, and, harder yet, to forgive oneself. Jesus was telling us what he knew about forgiveness, but the bastards killed him before he could show us how to forgive ourselves.

An ancient tradition held that pilgrims should bring to the Cruz, from their own homes, a small stone and a more personal item, and to leave them behind at the Cross. My mother was now placing, among the rocks, a small stone she’d carried from an ancient canyon near her house in Colorado. Previous pilgrims had also brought and left behind other, more telling things. A tube of lipstick. A postcard of Bruges, scrawled in a woman’s hand. Folded pieces of paper and fragments of words in Spanish and English, German and Dutch, Korean and Basque. Underwear that raised certain questions. A Matchbox car that looked to my inner-nine-year-old’s eye like a ’68 Corvette, give or take two years. A toy soldier – missing a leg, poor bastard – and the half-eaten cookie on which he’d been subsisting among the pebbles.

On the wooden pole itself I could make out a tacked-up orange baseball cap and a clip-less biking pedal, a gourd on a string, a black-and-white photo of a European peasant family, circa 1930s, a 1970s photo of a boy, in a shirt with blue stripes, holding a Bible, a pre-printed fortune cookie’s fortune: Do not throw the butts into the urinal, for they are subtle, and quick to anger. I saw a Prada label, an AC Milan futbol jersey, and a broken pair of cheap sunglasses. A German pilgrim had erected a small German flag among the rocks. Not to be outdone, so had a Belgian. Or vice versa, let’s not start another war.

My mother, still with her back to my cousin and me, had reached the top of the mound. The Iron Cross now loomed over her, standing stoutly in the wind. She bowed her head and pulled her second, more personal offering from a pocket in her field jacket. She cupped it with both hands and held it over her head, a modest proposal to the cosmos about what she should be allowed to let go of. When I saw her shoulders start to shake I began to cry, too, but quietly, because I was the expedition videographer, not to mention its chief biographer, photographer, legal counsel, and practicing podiatrist.

I handed the camera to Carrie and went to join my mother.

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“It is the first stage, to Roncesvalles, that breaks people”

Bilbao and the Bus to Bayonne

On the bus to Bayonne, 7:30a.m.

Heading to the subway and bus station en route to Bayonne and St. Jean Pied de Port

The rain continues, but the fog and mist add a cozy spice to the mountainous terrain and lush forest of the Pyrenees. Julio took us to a wok restaurant last night, in a largely successful attempt to get Mom her first cancer-smart meal.  Thus far it has not been easy.  It’s not possible to find a restaurant in Bilbao that will cook a meal before 8:30p.m., so if you want to eat before then, you must choose from among various bread-heavy pintxos (peenchos), known everywhere else as tapas, which, whether containing brie or salmon or crab, sport large dollops of what appears to be the regional spice of choice, mayonnaise.

At the wok restaurant, I wanted a glass of red wine.  Julio ordered a bottle, saying Spanish wine was predictably good if it cost more than 5 euros, but that if it cost less than that, your head would let you know.  (“I woke up with a headache,” I would tell him the next morning.  “At 3, 4, and 6 a.m.”)  Julio drinks his wine like I drink water.  When I returned from supervising the cooking of my food in the wok area the bottle was nearly empty.  “Did you spill the wine?” I asked, looking under the table.

The Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, and the flower puppy

Bilbao is a lovely city, and one of the main cities of the Basque Country, a relatively autonomous region of Spain with a strong independent streak.

“Last night Real Madrid was beaten by a football club of beginners,” Julio announced when we met him this morning.  “There will be suicides before it is light.  But the rest of the country could not be more happy.”  Madrid is the locus of the Spanish central government, and the people of both the Basque Country and the equally fiercely independent Catalonia love to see it fail.

While in Bilbao we visited the truly astonishing Guggenheim Museum, a sculpture far

Santiago Cathedral in Bilbao, with the trademark scallop shell of St. James and the Camino

more impressive than the rather precious concept art we saw inside it.  We walked along the Gran Via, Bilbao’s equivalent of Fifth Avenue, enjoyed the transparent, Art Nouveau shell-like entrances to the subways (called Fosteritos by the locals) that had been designed by English architect Sir Norman Foster, took in cityscapes enhanced by the Rio Nervion, ducked into our first Santiago Cathedral, complete with the trademark scallop shells on the exterior, toured the extraordinary multi-use Alhóndiga, each of whose dozens of giant inner columns were unique, and walked the pedestrian streets of Casco Viejo, the charming older part of town in which our hotel was located.  We’d have to carry for hundreds of miles anything we bought, so, in spite of all the great shopping to be had, we bought nothing.

Julio says that the city was transformed almost overnight by the Guggenheim.  Initially, he said (and I recall reading this in news reports), many people did not understand the strange new structure, and they did not like it.  The estimate of 200,000 visitors in the first year was exceeded by 2.2 million, though, and Bilbaoans soon went from seeing themselves as a city of industry to a city of aesthetics, tourism, and cutting-edge design.  Now there are many fine examples of modern architecture, a nice complement to the many beautiful older buildings, from the Gothic cathedrals to the Beaux Arts municipal building and Teatro Arragio.

We were up at 6a.m., never an easy task on one’s second morning of jet-lag, and at the bus station by 7.  A young man with a backpack approached Mom, Carrie, and me while Julio was away.

“Excuse me,” he said.  “Do you have a map of Spain?”

“No,” Mom said.  “But our friend will be back in a minute.”

The man looked confused.  I explained.  “We decided to bring along a Spaniard instead.”

Now we wend our way through the forested hills, lulled by the hum of the bus and the sound of water against the tires.  In the forested cleft of a misty mountain to my left I notice a sinuous thread of fog in the shape of a question mark.

I am writing this post largely in order to take my mind off my body, which is contorted fiendishly in seats that appear to have been designed and manufactured for, and perhaps by, small children.  They’re so narrow that Julio and I are forced to cross our arms just to co-exist.  The seats also come equipped with an anti-lumbar feature, surely patented, that sends the lumbar spine backward in space.  Higher up, my middle and upper back are forced forward, after which the seat, also too short, again curves away, so that in order to rest my head it is necessary to throw it back and look up to the ceiling.

My knees are jammed tightly into the seat in front of me, kneecaps crushed against the grey plastic.  Even to type these words, my hands must dangle from my chest like the useless appendages of a T. Rex.  When the three-hour ride is over, I will require work by both a chiropractor and a shrink.

St. Jean Pied de Port is an hour away by train.

Lisbon, Part 1 of 2

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By the time a judge brought down the curtain, my mother and I were six thousand miles away, standing at a waystation on a yellow-arrowed path, like characters in some 21st century update to the Wizard of Oz.  My mother wanted a cure for her cancer, or at least a break from “all the cutting and poison”, as she put it.  I hadn’t believed there were any answers for my uncertainties high on the wild-dog-infested and wind-swept spine of a mountain range in northern Spain, so I had sort of convinced myself I wanted nothing.

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Shutting Up My Boss

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By the time a judge brought down the curtain, my mother and I were six thousand miles away, standing at a waystation on a yellow-arrowed path, like characters in some 21st century update to the Wizard of Oz.  My mother wanted a cure for her cancer, or at least a break from “all the cutting and poison”, as she put it.  I hadn’t believed there were any answers for my uncertainties high on the wild-dog-infested and wind-swept spine of a mountain range in northern Spain, so I had sort of convinced myself I wanted nothing.

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Letting Go of the Life We Have Planned

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The ultimate Camino de Santiago Journey

I was married, briefly.  The nature channels tell me there are penguins with longer relationships.

By the time a judge brought down the curtain, my mother and I were six thousand miles away, standing at a waystation on a yellow-arrowed path, like characters in some 21st century update to the Wizard of Oz.  My mother wanted a cure for her cancer, or at least a break from “all the cutting and poison”, as she put it.  I hadn’t believed there were any answers for my uncertainties high on the wild-dog-infested and wind-swept spine of a mountain range in northern Spain, so I had sort of convinced myself I wanted nothing.

I stood at the foot of a high rubbled mound.  I was holding my new

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Tearful farewell

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Cricket Alarm…

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Just moving along

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The ultimate Camino de Santiago Journey

I was married, briefly.  The nature channels tell me there are penguins with longer relationships.

By the time a judge brought down the curtain, my mother and I were six thousand miles away, standing at a waystation on a yellow-arrowed path, like characters in some 21st century update to the Wizard of Oz.  My mother wanted a cure for her cancer, or at least a break from “all the cutting and poison”, as she put it.  I hadn’t believed there were any answers for my uncertainties high on the wild-dog-infested and wind-swept spine of a mountain range in northern Spain, so I had sort of convinced myself I wanted nothing.

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Kids would love this too

A new creation and my friend Bonnie came over to volunteer for taste testing. I am glad to report that not only did she survive but pronounced this dish, ‘very, very good’.

Potatoe Nest with steamed Veggies and Portabella ‘Burger’.

(Serves 2)

6 Yukon Gold Potatoes, 1/4 tsp nutmeg, 1/4 tsp rock/or sea salt, 1 Tbsp butter, 1 Tbsp parsley, 1 tsp dry roasted sesame seeds, mini carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, yellow/green zuccini, Asparagus (was on sale you can omitt). (Portabella is in recipe archive under ‘Portabella revisited.’

Cook, peel and mash potatoes, (best if you have a ricer). Season potatoes with salt and nutmeg , add parsley, butter. If consistency is too dense, add a little hot broth. Place in 16″ inch pastry bag with large star tip. Spray cookie sheet with Pam (or use a little butter) Squeeze pastry bag and create 3 tiered circles, approx 4-5 inches room in the middle. (You can draw circles onto parchment paper and then trace with bag. Sprinkle with sesame and bake @350F for approx. 10 min.

Meanwhile steam veggies, add herbs. When nests are done, place them in the middle. Serve with Portabella Burger. This is a very nice lunch or dinner for anyone.

Running away from chemo

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The Cutting Edge

Yesterday, late afternoon, my little buddy was here and we were just enjoying a movie and a sandwich when the phone rang and my ‘other’ reality interferred. Oncologist/Radiologist from Cyberknife asked to speak to me and then explained the following to me. (Very nice and patient Doctor.)

Seems that I am a candidate for this procedure. Seems it’s not quite that simple, yet again. Pro- there may be only 3-4 treatments necessary to get rid of that tumor. Con- there may be some damage to some areas due to location of that tumor. AND, I still may need chemo!

Conventional treatment: Surgery, would be more informative as they could check surrounding areas, IF there could be additional nodules, which then would be biopsied for positive/negative results. Then follow up with chemo for a better quality of life. (Sounds backward to use ‘quality’ in the same sentence with chemo.)  Still not an easy choice. Still wondering which road to take? If, if, if.

I have to wonder again, WHY they did not take this lymph node out 10 year ago? I’ve had two surgeries within 2 weeks.  That’s when they told me, afterward, IF this lymph node made any problems, it would be diffilcult to remove. (I had purchased a long, purple zipper which I’d put under my hospital gown , so when they’d took it off before surgery, they saw it laying on my belly. Message: You sew that in there for easier access. They had a good laugh about that.) So, now I’m stuck with this cancerous, enlarged lymph node, like some ugly souvernir and have to make these awfully hard decisions. ( Am I whining? Well. Sometimes I get to do this.)

Even though there were other health problems that came in rapid succession, I was always in gratitude and proclaimed, “As long as it’s Do-able.” It’s still do-able but in a more sinister way and it’s not leaving a lot of room for erroneous decisions.

There’s another choice: Cancer Centers. Closest one is in Phoenix. I have some good friends, living close by.

Before all of that, there’s still hope that some ‘miracle’ will happen and through this long walk on the Camino, my body will heal itself. Then, we do a P.E.T scan, bloodwork and SEE what happened. (Although the P.E.T does not show everything, either, I am told.)

I’ve been up since 4:00 A.M again and these thoughts are circling like big birds. (Sure hope they don’t turn into Vultures.)

Any medical voices out there that want to weigh in?

 

Eat fresh, organic and raw

Well, at least raw twice a day. That does not mean a raw potato.  You don’t have to wait until you have a life-changing illness to change your lifestyle.

During my cancer journey, last time, I could barely eat anything. Chemo changed the taste of so many food items. Then, there was hardly any appetite due to long lasting nausea.

I would buy fresh products and create dishes. I would experiment with new items but what I neglected was organic. First reason, there was no organic market here. I’ve learned just because something looks green, or like a sweet potato, it doesn’t make it organic. It’s been sprayed into oblivion. It’s been trucked across and sometimes left sitting in the hot sun or cold weather. By the time, we pick it up, it’s been altered considerably. I thought I bought fresh. I did not know about mercury in fish. I did not know a whole lot about GOOD healthful food.

Then, about 3 years ago my health started to deteriorate. I had a myriad of ‘phantom’ complaints. I made the doctor rounds and no one knew what was the matter with me. I had heart palpitations. My hair started to fall out. I started to gain weight and had fluid retention. My eyes were so grainy and burning, I thought that I had severe allergies. My right kidney hurt. I had to go to the bathroom 12-14 times a day. (I went to the Urologist and he diagnosed me with ‘Interstitial Cystitis.’ This is when the mucuous lining of the bladder ‘eats itself’,breaks down. Very painful and chronic. Finally, I couldn’t stand the pain any more and went to a different Urologist, who diagnosed me with kidney stones. Geez. Eighteen month of pain. and a wrong call. I had a Lithotripsy to remove them. I finally got some Thyroid medication for the other problems.

Then, I got Plantar’s Fasciitis and couldn’t walk. It felt like I stepped on broken glass.  Months later, I finally saw a very good Foot Therapist and he helped with that. My friend Carla, tried to get me to eat ‘organic’. She  tried to impress its importance. She said, I needed to change my food. I kept saying to her, ‘ but I eat well and fresh. I can’t afford organic’.  When the lab report came back, it stated the stones were ‘calcium’ based, meaning ‘you eat wrong.’

On the right, this is what they look like The most painful ordeal. Child birth is a low 1 point on that scale!! This procedure cost $16,000. (Imagine the amount of organic food that would’ve bought.)

Finally, when I was re-diagnosed with cancer, 18 mos ago, I was so scared I changed my lifestyle over night! One of the first things I did, was, to appologize to my friend, Carla. For being stubborn, un-believing of her many years of knowledge and the gentle, loving way she tried to make me see.

I learned that even though, I knew a LOT about food and butter and cream sauces and wonderful dishes and pastries, I knew very little about NUTRITION. You can eat and still be nutritionally malnutritioned. That’s where the trouble starts. Your Immune system is falling apart, sending desperate signals of ‘symptoms’, which we ignore or, silence them with prescription drugs because hardly anyone is interested in the CAUSE. God forbid, we should do without that cheeseburger and lab-created, plastic maccaroni and cheese. Or, we think, that this only happens to other people.

I look at the many cooking shows where some designer Chef pours massive amounts of oil into pots and pans. Or, like the one lady who uses pounds of butter and sugar to make things taste good. Well, it takes a better chef to make food taste good without all that stuff.

Changing my lifestyle, even as a senior citizen, was the best thing I have ever done for myself. I’ve lost all that piled-on weight (43 lbs so far.)  No more pains, no more kidney stones. My skin is glowing, my eyes are bright. I have very good energy. I am full of Tatendrang (desire to do great things.) Some people do not really believe that I have cancer. How can I look, feel this good?  Well, I have no clue. The scans, bloodwork and tests say, I do. The first P.E.T scan showed 3 tumors. One in lower abdomen, this one disappeared with lifestyle change and never came back. One, in my lung (removed with VATS (1 at the inside of my spine (it’s the last one and that’s the one I’m researching for Cyberknife procedure.  (Remember? Non invasive, painfree, hard to get to place?)

I have renewed my attention and committment to eat better. I eat two raw meals a day (salad with 5-8 ingredients and home made, wonderful tasting dressings. I juice and do smoothies. I walk for miles, at least 3-4 days in the week. I feel great.

What I would like to impress on my family and friends, especially for my grandchildren, is, to start NOW. Start better habits. I worry about the sugar they eat, the bad carbs, the lack of raw, organic foods. Just think about it. Just love yourself enough to change.

The medical side wants to do surgery, chemo. I still try to hold that off and walking the camino is one of my ideas.

Long, long ago…

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Let’s all go Nuts

I spend a large amount of time researching. On all German speaking websites, too. (Austria, Switzerland). I go to ‘Heidelberg, Munich, Cologne and other Universities. I check their wellness program and cancer approach. Last spring, when I went to Wuerzburg University to have a CT scan and bloodwork, I also visited the famous ‘Immunobiology Therapy’- Hufeland Clinic in ‘Bad Mergentheim’, Germany. It was an amazing experience.

They treat all kinds of Immuno-problems, holistically. Their Motto is:

1. Detox

2. Regenerate

3. Activate Defense.

They had a waiting list as patients come from all over the world. People come  to be treated without chemo or radiation but especially after they’ve already had one or both, to help put them together from all that toxic mess. I would have loved to stay but I just couldn’t afford it. While I waited for my appointment I ate a bowl full of nuts.

What I have learned, is that they all use the same dietary approach. Organic, local if possible and seasonal, low fat, very little sugar.

I have gone nuts over the nut approach. They’re easy to get, easy to eat and have tons of healthy attributes. MOST importantly though, they must be raw, organic, and unsalted. Here are the most important ones:

(Clinic is near this wonderful park.)

ALMONDS: have as much calcium as milk. They contain Vitamin E, selenium, magnesium and lots of fiber. (Most people need that, for sure.)

CASHEWS: are rich in minerals, like copper, magnesium, zinc, iron and biotin. Good news is that they’re low in fat and have a high concentration aleic acid which is great for heart health as well. Research states that one, big handful of cashews provides one, to two thousand milligrams  of tryoptophan, which will work as well as a prescription of Prozac.

BRAZIL nuts are a great source of protein, copper, niacin (more on that important one later) magnesium, fiber, selenium and vitamin E.

PINE nuts have vitamin A,B,D,E and contain 70% of required amino acids. Sprinkle lots on your salad, in your soup.

PECANS  are loaded with vitamin E and A, calcium, aolic acid, magnesium, copper, phosphorus, potassium, manganese, zinc and a few B-vitamins.

WALNUTS your heart and brain loves them and they contain cancer fighting antioxidants as well.

Now, maybe you’re looking for the PEANUT. Well, it’s missing on purpose from this honorable line up. Peanut, is not a nut but belongs to the bean family. It is very high in Omega 6 fat acid, which suppress the immune ssystem and can increas tumor growth.

Most (if not all) Peanut Farms use pesticides and therefor all is contaminated. They can also contain a carcinogenic mold, called aflatoxin.

Use ORGANIC Nut butters. Almond or Cashew. I’ve recently posted a recipe how to make that one yourself.

So. Mix up a bowl of nuts and seeds and go NUTS.

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Great ideas and helpful hints

A friend sent me an e-mail with these great suggestions.

So here are some good ideas. — It’s hard to get kids eat salad but this may do the trick. You will need: 1 head of iceberg lettuce, 2 med carrots, peeled and sliced, 1 small cucumber sliced, 1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes, 1 pint mini-mozzarella cheese balls.

In bowl, whisk together 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, 1/4 cup balsamic (or regular) vinegar, 1/2 tsp ground mustard (or Dijon) pinch of sugar, 1 Tbsp chopped parsley and/or basil.

Wooden skewers.

Cut iceberg lettuce into wedges then into 1 and 1/2″ cubes. Thread wooden skewer, alternating with sliced carrots, cucumber, lettuce cubes, tomatoes and cheese. Serve with Balsamic dressing to dip in. This would be a different salad treat for your next BBQ as well.

DON’T throw out left over salad. You can use this wilted green and make a delicious Gazpacho soup. In a food processor or blender pulse 2 cups of salad (including the vinaigrette and croutons) 1 small, chopped onion and 1 clove garlic until coarsely chopped. Transfer to a large bowl and add 2 cups of vegetable juice and chill. Low calories and fast. Serve with garlic- buttered bread.

Fluffy, summer pancakes: Swap the milk or buttermilk in the recipe for seltzer. It’ll make for a light, bubbly texture. Add the seltzer last and gently fold it so you won’t lose the fizz. Cuts down on calories as well as lactose intolerant people can eat pancakes.

Nightmares -“Daymares”

Of course, that’s a made up word but since I seem to have nightmares even when I’m awake, perhaps it’s a new word. It seems that the peaceful, calm times are getting shorter. I wake up at odd hours from a night mare. I hear my doctor telling me, ten years ago,  that if the cancer came back, it would be ‘really bad, worse than the first time.’ I wonder why I had to have this information? It lay dormant for that many years only to emerge in the blue hours of the night.

My other doctor telling me, that if that small ‘thing’ on my spine ever became a problem, it would be very diffilcult to operate, if not impossible. So! These old records, echoing their voices from long ago, as it has become my reality. But, at the same time there’s new technology. There are different options and choices. They need to be more careful what they throw out, even when meant well. Goes to show how very powerful words are and not just from the medical side. The impact of careless words. Like wild horses. Once they’re out and gallopping, you can’t call them back.

I also dreamed that I couldn’t find my purse and ran all over the place, looking. When I did find it, everything was taken. Just an empty purse and at the sight of that open, black, gaping hole, I couldn’t breath. The remaining hours of interrupted sleep, stretching before me like a long, bumpy road. The crickets chirped relentlessly but I was grateful for their incessant noise. I know, I really do, that I could call my friends, even at that hour but what would be different? They’d lose sleep, too.

I had my son call my doctor and ask him a lot questions but I did not want to know, at this point in time.  I cling onto the camino like a life saver raft. Running away. How long is that leash?? I would love to unzip my skin and step out of it at those times. Even get away from myself. I am not a whiner, usually. I’ve dealt with a lot of set backs, hard knocks. But all of that was ‘do-able’ I don’t mind so much adversity in life as I’ve become rather good at dealing with things as long as it is ‘DO-ABLE.’

I’ve noticed I’ve also become somewhat short tempered at people’s ‘problems’. They’re having a bad hair day. They imagine their jeans make their butts look big. They broke a perfect nail. Their husband/wife is not listening. The laundry detergent is not making their underwear white. ‘Let’s trade places’. I know. I know. It’s not fair. It’s not their fault I’m saddled with this crap. I promise, this does not last very long. Only the time span of a Hummingbird cough.

I was so moved and touched to tears by my son and daughters’ loving support and willingess to carry some of this burden. My friends rallied around, coming by, spending quality time.

I drove to Grand Junction and visited my ‘adopted’ family. We went to have lunch down town. Lovely street, art work shops and restaurants. (Had salad and a Portabella. This one, on a rosemary-herb roll.) I actually wanted to sell some gold but when he offerd a low price, I kept it. Sentimental value was so much more.

Hungarian Goulash

I am constantly trying to expand my list of meatless, low fat, sugar-free dishes. It’s not that easy! But, here is a winner and keeper. (My friend Bonnie says so.)

This recipe is for 4 hungry people:

2 yukon gold potatoes

2 sweet potatoes

2 onions

3 Portabellas

1 can (salt free) diced tomatoes, fresh is better

1/2 can of tomato paste

2 cloves of garlic

2 Tbsp sweet paprika, salt, pepper, dash chili flakes, 2 bay leaves, 1/2 tsp caraway seeds

Vegetable broth

1 cup Merlot

Dice onions, garlic and sautee in coconut oil, add diced Portabella’s, sautee for about 5-8 min. Then, add diced potatoes, broth and red wine. Simmer on med heat for approx. 1 hr. Then add paprika, tomatoes and all speices. Simmer an additional 15-20 min. Sprinkle Ital parsely on top.

Serve with steamed broccoli or baby bok-choy.

Awesome Black Canyon

Everyone has heard of the Grand Canyon. This is God’s smaller, just as impressive, more compact miracle. The Black Canyon is only 20 minutes from my house. Practically in my back yard. I love going there. Especially in the morning, when all is quiet, except for an occasional bird calling, or the tourists show up with their loud motorcycles and speeding cars. The pictures do not give justice to the dizzying depths. There are places, where the sun has never, ever touched the rocks. Rock formation that are over one Billion years old. Makes one feel insignificant before such wonders. How lucky am I to live so close and get to go any time I want? VERY lucky, indeed.

Sunday morning when I went on a 3-hour hike to prepare for the Camino, I met this doe. It did not move, just stood at attention, watching me. It did make some low sounds, almost like growling. I wonder if there was a fawn in the underbrush?

The Gunnison river is below. One can hear it rushing and thundering.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Invasive thoughts are still there

I’ve received a long e-mail from my only niece, who lives in Germany. Very talented, gifted and pretty young woman. Two years ago, she too, had cancer. She’d noticed a little blister-like spot on the underside of her tongue. She thought that this was from a tooth that had an uneven edge. When she finally went to the Dentist, he immediately send her to the hospital for tests. It was positive and already in her lymphnodes.

How I admire her for going through this horrid time. Of all places to get cancer, this is just awful.

She had one of the best micro-reconstructive, surgical teams, who, in an 8 hr operation, ‘cut’ her throat and amputated half of her tongue, then took a piece of flesh out of her upper arm and fashioned a new ‘half’. They followed up with precision radiation (cyberknife?) and she’s alright. Although she can’t ever have the simple joy of ‘licking’ an ice cream cone. All her food had to be pureed and she had to learn to talk all over again. (She’s doing very well on that account too.)

Meanwhile I received a copy of my pathology report and there it is, in black and white. Four impersonal, clinical sentences that are responsible for my interrupted- night sleep. I am not going to write the result here. I’m just a little superstitious! If I do, then it’s like written in marble and forever there. I don’t want to have these thoughts in my brain nor ‘here’. With each time that it is mentioned, it’s as if it’s pounded real some more. And yet…yet, how can I stop thinking?

I spend a lot of time researching. People send me lots of info. It would be a lot easier if I had a sounding board or, someone to bounce these ideas back and forth.

Another Doctor, whom I’ve talked with yesterday, also encouraged me to have surgery and chemo! What IS this, with the cutting?? And the chemo? I wanted to say to him, in a childish, little fit..’ well, you go have it then!’

Well. I don’t have to make a decision, yet. First, the camino. I can’t believe that I am actually going. This was only a fleeting thought, a couple of months ago and here I am preparing. ‘Behave as if it’s going to happen’ and I did. Bought only small, inexpensive items at first. Started hiking different places and longer. Started to research Camino de Santiago more and felt a growing excitement. As if it was calling me, pulling me there like magnet. Even when I thought I had to go by myself and woke up questioning my sanity, the feeling of having to go, persisted.

Now, I’m getting ready to go to the Black Canyon, this huge, gorgeous cathedral, for my Sunday morning walk , solitude and prayers of gratitude. .

Same green, amazing smoothie

I’ve learned a new word, yesterday and thought it was most

fitting. “Entheogen” is from the Greek and means “Creates God within” (en=within, theo=God, gen=creates or generates).  This smoothie was created with kale, a stalk of celery, baby spinach, Italian parsley, and a green apple. All organic, of course. (I served this in a Bavarian hand carved glass. Because I’m worth it.)

Yesterday, I also spent a couple of hours creating this scrumptious Bolognese sauce. Also, known as a different form of Ratatouille. (Without the rat.) This is a true labor of love but it makes a whole bunch and freezes very well.

This gorgeous Bolognese sauce is made from: peppers of all colors, celery, carrots, onions, garlic, (sauteed in coconut oil and just a little butter) Italian parsley, mushrooms (sauteed in dry sherry) canned-salt free tomatoes, tomato paste, home made vegetable broth, red wine, oregano, a few chili flakes. Simmered about 2 hours.  This can also be served with potatoes and brown rice. Of course, I’m using spaghetti squash.

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Portabello-revisited and new creations

After I’ve received a few calls from friends to post some pictures of the Portabella revisitedportabello lunch, I’ve decided to make this for them. A few changes need mentioned.

I live at high altitude so your cooking time may vary. Also, my friends did not like Provolone and so I chose a local cheese. All natural, called “Portabello-Leek-Jack” which has more flavor. (No. I did not eat that one. Mine is on the right.)

Now, I will be prepping a huge amount of vegetables for my Ratattouille.

 

Portabella

Such a lovely name. I did not give this fungi the respect it deserves until about a year ago.

Since my lifestyle change, I had not eaten any meat and wanted something more substantial and of a texture different from that of potatoes, rice, or salads. This is what I created and it tastes great.

  • 2 Portabellas (per person)
  • Mrs. Dash seasoning (or equivalent)
  • roasted red pepper (from glass or,  fresh if you have time to roast
  • green and yellow zucchini
  • 1 Tbsp Liquid Smoke
  • 1/2 tsp coconut oil
  • 1/2 tsp butter
  • (Provolone cheese if you’re not Vegan.)

Wipe the portabellas with a paper towel. Do not wash them because they’ll get water-logged and unsuitable.  Heat the oil and butter in pan, add the portabellas, top down, then red peppers on the side.  Sautee covered, for about 10 minutes on medium heat.

Cut zucchini (like french fries) and add to pan. Sprinkle with Mrs. Dash. Turn the portabellas, zucchini, and red peppers, and continue to sautee, covered, for another 5-8 minutes. Place red peppers on top of the portabellas and then add cheese and Liquid Smoke.  Cover again and cook for another few minutes until the cheese has melted. Looks really nice and colorful. (I was going to upload a picture, as I made this last night but was too hungry to wait.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Multiple arms like ‘Kali’

This is what I thought about, yesterday, as I tried to get so many things done. Kali, the Indian Goddess with multiple arms. Took my old friend to the airport and just ‘threw’ her out so I wouldn’t weep. No long good bye’s. I came home to a silent, empty house and started a flurry of acitvities to fill the silence.  With some people you can’t wait until they leave and others, it gets really tough when they do. Cleaned the guestroom, washed laundry, vaccumed, prepped veggie food. Cooked some black bean burgers. In between I researched for options and read all these opinions on cancer cures, that some people swear by. I’d like to meet them. I almost started the Hydrogen Peroxide (oxygenating cells) until a Doctor told me that even though it did help with cancer, later on in most cases, these people developed bone cancer. So, it seems, you swap one for the other.

The Gerson method, which makes the most sense, is also very, very diffilcult to do alone and very expensive.

My mail box is filled with links and suggestions. All from well meaning, good friends. The multitude of choices is staggering. How to decide which one is THE one?

To help sort it out and make an informed decision I wrote to Prof. Dr. K. in Wuerzburg. He is a renouned Lung Specialist in Germany. ( He has the same first names as my brother who died of lung cancer in 2000.) While I visited my relatives, I went there to have my bloodwork and a CT scan done. Very kind and compassionate. Very encouraging, knowledgable and efficient. While I had to wait here for weeks and then for days to hear about results, he answered the next day. (I am sure he’s very busy as well as he has a whole Hospital to take care of.) He’s willing to lead me through this maze of choices as I’m not at all sure whether my decisions would be fear based. His parting words to me were:

‘I wish you could stay so I could make you well’. I was in tears as no one ever said this to me before.

I’m regrouping this morning. Hope.  Can’t beat it down. There it is. A new, little sprig, green and fresh. I am also going shopping to buy a whole bushel of cruciferous vegetables… and start more juicing… and take my vitamins by the handful… go out and get vitamin D which is so plentyful in Colorado. (All the while pray short and longer versions of the same prayer: ‘ please let this pass’. I want to see the beauty of this gorgeous world just a little bit longer. I want to see my son and daughter happy and my grandchildren graduated.

I want to have my friends over to share  food and laughter. I want to get a dog although right now I travel too much but there’s neighbor’s dog ‘Cassie’ who fills that spot.

Critics weigh in…

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Super Green start of the day

I have been going a little side ways with my healthful lifestyle. I am coming back to it this morning, hailing it like a dear old friend, sorely missed. A super green smoothie will make my cheeks pink and my cells smile. (I’m trying to make this very appealing)

You will need:

1 hand full of fresh, organic spinach

2 celery stalks

1 green apple, cored

sprig of parsley

1-2 Kale leaves

Throw into mixer, add some good water (not from faucet) and give it a good whirl. To sweeten just a little, you can add a banana. I add 1 Tbsp of ground Flax seeds which makes this look like Pond scum but the taste is great.

 

Stockmarket feelings

When the call came, I wasn’t prepared. I can barely remember what all Doc said except that my cancer markers went up. Not just one or two points.  Although not an exact science, we have relied on this for ten years. Now, I’m not so sure that I can outrun this ‘thing’. Time is not as abundant as a few months ago. My confidence is slipping and fear is raising its ugly head. My emotions have this Yo-Yo effect. Or, up-down like the stockmarket. (It did recover?)  My best friend held me while we cried. I didn’t quite realize how much I had hoped for lower numbers until they were not.

My son said not to worry. We’ll find the best treatment and  money. Friends rally and surround me with theit love and support. Even unknown facebook friends are right there with advice and encouragement.

Although I would be a good canditate for Cyberknife ( I still like the idea of no cutting, no pain best!) It seems that Medicare won’t pay for this treatment. They view this as experimental?? Really? Only ‘traditional radiation’ pay. If I had a Grandma, I’d have to sell her to cover these inflated costs. Should I research other ‘alternative options?’ Which one to pick? Which one is only smoke and mirrors? How can I make a reasonable decision when there’s molasses in my brain?

I have written an e-mail to German University. Not that I believe they’re better but so far, they’ve been cheaper. University of Heidelberg has a state of the art oncology-cyberknife center.

We still hang on to the thread of hope to ‘lose’ this 50 cent size tumor on the camino. I have enough time to do that.

Am I ungrateful in this ‘whining’? At least there are options. Many people don’t even get that much. Well, one thing for sure. I will have plenty of  quality time to think about any and all of this when I walk the camino. There are still miracles out there. I’ve had two, ten years ago, within six month of each other. But, that’s another story.

For those of you who would like to know what this Cyberknife is all about.

rocky mountain cyberknife center

Rest from the party.

Computer kept crashing this morning and that is why there’s a part II. This is the castle in Erlangen, Germany. (The lovely, young lady is my granddaughter.) This is also where my best friend and I played ,on the castle grounds and marvelous gardens, pretending we owned it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It ain’t over until the fat lady sings!!!

 

 

 

 

 

Time flies…

…when you’re having fun and I’ve had more than my fair share of it, lately. The pictures are from our ‘Bavarian grill party.’ With food, song and ‘wine’ and a perfect Sunday afternoon with good friends. I did try to yodel after one drink but that was a sad imitation of the real thing.

I have been remiss in my hiking and feel vaguely guilty. The same kind of guilt that I felt, when I ate half a bratwurst. But, I also served a lot of vegetable kebabs.

We’re driving up to the Black Canyon this morning for a hike and  sight seeing with my best friend.

Lifetime friends for sixty-three years. We’d met in Kindergartenin Erlangen, Germany. Lived on the same street. It’s a rare treasure to find someone of that quality, faithfulness and unconditional love.

 

Brats, not Tapas

The last few days have been a whirlwind of activities. First, driving to Grand Junction and visit the ‘girls’. Then, taking Carrie and mom to R.E.I and other outfitting places to get Carrie started. I was excited for her and she was in (happy?) shock. (Carrie, my niece. If not by blood but by mutual consent and love.)

Then  we drove to the airport to pick up my dearest friend, Irene,  now known since childhood days. We met at Kindergarten and lived in the same street, which makes this special bond lasting over sixty plus years! She knows all my history and we can communicate with just one word and go back to ‘Adam and Eve’.

This is her ‘quiet time’ visit. Coming from Las Vegas, there’s not much to compete with in the way of entertainment. But, of course, we have our canyon and mountains and cute, little towns.

Not much time for walking but will pick it back up on Monday. I am so grateful that Julio will accompany us the first few days on the camino. (I am also very grateful that my son has taken out that much time, to travel with me.)

I was going to have a Spanish theme party, with Tapas and Sangria and a little flamenco music. Sort of ‘going away’ party a little early. But then, some friends called and wanted to do a Bavarian ‘Zither’ get together and they chose my place to do it. (Food may have been a deciding factor.) So. My theme would not go with this music. Hence, we’ll have Brats, potato salad, Bowle (spiked strawberry punch) wicked stuff, really. Several salads and apple-plum sheet cakes. Pictures will be posted tomorrow.

(All the while, listening with one ear for the phone to ring and Doctor telling me the numbers of cancer marker. It’s been five days.) Really would like to know.

 

The Return of Senor Julio Redondo

Julio (pictured here next to the Camino sign) just returned from a 165-kilometer jaunt on20090624_00240 the Camino, “an average of 20 kms a day, lovely walk,” and says to me, “Seventeen of september i´ll be waiting for you at the airport, following day we could get bus to Pamplona, and from there to Roncesvalles … and from there  ¡ Be ready for the camino … almost 900 kms!”

But, he says, “Gossip is not my business,” so he’s not sure he wants anything to do with all this blog and Facebook stuff.  Still, he says, “i´ll change my mind for a couple of days and we´ll see what happen.”

And then some parting words of advice from the master trekker:

I´ll remind you , secret of the camino is the weight, only the indispensable, boots already used, and good humour.

Julio’s second email neatly tied up the rest of any of the details that added complexity to our trip:  how to get from the airport at Bilbao to the start of the Camino on the French side of the Pyrenees, at Saint Jean Pied de Port (which literally means Saint John at the foot of the mountain).

I just checked Internet and confirm there is several trains from Hendaya to Bayonne, where we can get the small train to Saint Jean Pied de Port.  From Bilbao there are several buses going Hendaya, just the border, at about 200 yards to train station.

So that’s that.  Now, how to train when I don’t like walking, much less for six hours a day?

In general, I’m going to rely on a reasonable amount of fitness to get in more Camino shape as I go.  In other words, the first day on the Camino is great prep for the second and third.  But I have to be able to recover from that first day, which, going over the Pyrenees, is widely regarded as the most difficult of the entire trip . . .

Adam, is there anything on that sign Julio is standing next to that’s of interest?

Welcome to the Camino, Carrie!

Carrie LaneWhat an extraordinary girl that is now joining us on the Camino – Carrie Lane, 15, who is related to me in two or three ways, though all of them are apparently legal.  Mom has come to know her and her mother, Laurel, and her sisters quite well over the last year; they’ve been very supportive of Mom, and have visited her in Montrose several times.  And the girls, especially Carrie, have really taken to Mom.  Which is nice.

But I’ve never met her, and until recently wasn’t sure how she fit into the whole Colorado cosmology.  Let’s see if I can work it out:

Carrie’s mother is Laurel, the daughter of one of my many Colorado cousins, Christie Powell, and Terry Lancaster (and because Aunt Jayne Powell long ago married a Lancaster, the Lancasters and Powells are sort of one family).  Laurel has four girls, Rachel (18), Carrie, Grace (12), and Hayden (3).  Meanwhile, Carrie’s father was in school, in Rangely, Colorado, a year or so behind me . . .  So it’s all sort of overlapping.

I am still amazed that she got permission to go.  What kind of enlightened school administration would let a child leave the comforts of rote learning and conformism to launch herself into the real world and see that it is, in fact, bigger than previously imagined?  Carrie will learn a great deal, and I suspect she’ll learn a lot about how mature and capable a 15-year-old can be – which will give her valuable confidence as she heads into the challenges of the high school years.

As a coach, I can also say she’s also shown an initiative and passion she’ll well remember in later years:  she saw a goal, that of joining my mother for five weeks on the Camino in the middle of her sophomore year of high school, and then she worked her way through all obstacles in her path – starting with first one parent and then the other until they were swayed to her vision.  And then came convincing the school district of Central High in Grand Junction, Colorado, whose hand, so to speak, I still want to shake.

They won’t be sorry!  She’ll pick up more than just added confidence.  She’ll learn how to read a map; how to convert European measurements; all sorts of history, especially that of Spain, Europe, and Catholicism, all of which I know a bit about; the Spanish language (and thus some Latin); geography; currency conversion; and much more, but she’ll especially learn a great deal from the variety of seekers who come to the Camino from all over the world.  Last but not least, imagine the education, if that’s the right word, that she’ll get from watching a sixty-seven-year-old cancer survivor walk 500 miles on feet that until recently had been too scarred from prior rounds of chemo to enable much walking.

What a major accomplishment, already, for a young woman of such tender years!  She’ll remember it forever.

Which is nice.

Welcome, Carrie!

Various home made dressings

For awhile now I’ve been making my own dressings as that ‘gummy’ concoction from a bottle is nearly nauseating. Especially the ‘fat -free’  stuff. Here are a few, basic great tasting alternatives. Remember, only coat the salad. Don’t drown it in dressing.

Classic French Dijon:                                                  Cilantro Lime

1/3 cup white wine vinegar                                      1/4 cup fresh lime juice

1/2 tsp each, kosher salt                                          2 Tbsp cider vinegar

and black pepper                                                       1/4 tsp cayenne pepper

1 Tbsp Dijon mustard                                               1/2 tsp ground cumin

1 Tbsp sugar                                                              1/4 tsp kosher salt

2 tsp chopped Thyme, Estragon                              1 Tbsp honey

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil                                     2 Tbsp cilantro

2/3 cup (or less) canola oil

_____________________________________________

Raspberry Balsamic:

1/3 cup balsamic vinegar

2 Tbsp water

4 tsp raspberry preserves

1/4 tsp kosher salt/ 1/2tsp gr black pepper

1 Tbsp finely chopped shallot

2/3 cup extra virg olive oil

_________________________________________________

Ve hef ze technolochy, or, Why I feel sorry for Camino walkers from countries without an REI store

It’s a beautiful summer day in Seattle, a city that’s particularly beautiful on beautiful summer days.  I’m sitting on the sidewalk of Espresso Vivace, a coffee shop across the street from the flagship REI store north of downtown.  For those of you who don’t know, REI began in Seattle, and it’s based here, and the main store is situated on a block that’s like a forest, complete with waterfalls and trails, in the middle of the city.

With the help of a phalanx of knowledgeable REI staffers, including a good fellow named Ron who lavished at least an hour on my wanderings in the store, I spent over three hours and six hundred clams on a good portion of all that I’ll carry in Spain. It makes me wonder what people do who hail from countries without REIs.

It’s expensive, traveling light!

Everything but the pack is super-light, and you pay extra for the technology that makes things light. Here’s a list, from memory, of what I bought to take along, and why:

The centerpiece, a 48-liter backpack, weighing in, according to the Camino scuttlebutt I have read, at a relatively hefty 3 pounds 10 ounces.  Some Caminoderos boast of packs under a pound, which sounds suspiciously like wearing a g-string.  But I’m carrying a heavy laptop (4-6 pounds) too, and I decided that, perversely, a heavy pack with appropriately padded shoulder and waist straps was the best thing to support all the increased weight.  If the recommended limit to carry on one’s back is about 20 pounds, you can see I’m starting heavy.

A camera pack.  I don’t know what most walkers do for cameras, but I’ll be damned if I’m going to spend the rest of my life looking at pictures taken on a cell phone camera, or any other camera that fits in a shirt pocket or can be skipped across a pond.  Those cameras are to photography what iTunes files are to real music files:  a pale imitation of the real thing.  Fitting the camera pack on the front of the backpack took some carabiners and some doing, but with Ron’s help I think I found a solution.  Only testing the contraption around Bend, and maybe New Jersey, will tell.

Convertible, wicking walking pants and two fitted, short-sleeved smartwool shirts.  I love smartwool.  I’ve skied for two winters in it, and it not only wicks away moisture but, unlike synthetic fabrics, you simply can’t stink it up, no matter how hard you try.

Five-toed wool socks to go with my Vibram FiveFingers footwear.  That’s right:FiveFingers1  I’m not wearing boots, as all the Camino chatrooms insist you must do.  I’m wearing the equivalent of padded rubber gloves on my feet.  If God had meant us to walk long distances with our feet all enclosed he’d not have given us balancing toes and high arches.  More and more evidence is showing that our ancestors ran after game for unimaginable distances (like 100 miles – the whole tribe, old men, young, and women with infants), and that our bodies are perfectly formed – that is, sans shoes – for running barefoot.  See Christopher McDougall’s Born to Run for a fascinating read; it’s one of the most provocative and fun-to-discuss books I’ve read in years.

A heating element and metal cup for tea, coffee, and hot toddies.  It wouldn’t have occurred to me to get this, but Mom mentioned it.  She probably needs her morning coffee and doesn’t want to rely on the hostels.

A compression sack for my mummy-style sleeping bag (probably over 10 years old, my REI aide told me it’s still pretty light; it’s warm to 20 degrees F).  Camino vets recommend a large backpack, like 60 liters, but I decided to strap the 16-liter compressed sleeping bag to the outside of the pack and save on the internal space.

Synergy,Tandem and invisible companions.

Alone today at the canyon at 6:30 A.M with back pack, water and a sandwich. Beautiful, cool and peaceful.  Thoughts coming through and I wonder at their source. First, I was thinking of my daughter, who lost her job, with 10 other co-workers, by their company’s downsizing. My granddaughter who has no job either. Then I had to let that go. After awhile, I became aware of the click-clack sound my poles were making. Everything moving in tandem. Step-clack-step-click, inhaling well, heart pumping, lung expelling without any pain from previous surgery. Feet moving in comfy boots. ( I LOVE those hiking socks!!)

I thought of ‘Quasimodo’ the handicapped bell ringer of Notre Dame and the beautiful Esmeralda. They became my invisible companions. He had a weight on his back, which he couldn’t take off.  ‘ Mochila’ means back pack in Spanish but I will name my lumpy weight pack ‘Quasimodo’. Almost like a Siamese twin for the whole way. I could feel my hip bones under this added weight. A few years ago, I had a bone density test and was told that I had the ‘hips of a twenty year old’. So. Thank you ancestors and parents for my functional hips.

I was shaken out of my reverie by the piercing cry of a falcon? I started singing old Folk songs. I was feeling my kidneys a bit too. But to think that  a mere 2 years ago I had kidney stones and a whole assortement of other problems, I revel in feeling so well.

Then I thought of my parents. Hard working, honest laborers. Giving me the gift of tenacity, perserverance and courage and a good dose of ‘optimism from Mom, who sang even when she was despairing, although some of those ballads sure had us bawling.). Gifts more worth than money. I hope I passed them on to my son and daughter.

And thus, I walked 5.5 miles or nearly 9 Kilometers, in two hours at 9000 feet altitude. Not too bad for an old broad. When I got home and took ‘Quasimodo’ off, the sudden liberation unbalanced me for a few steps  and I zig-zagged like a drunken bee. (Bumble bee before I’d lost the weight.)

Not the same ol’ breakfast

When my friend Bonnie came last week to help out with domestic chaos, I rewarded her and myself with this wonderful breakfast.

Pumpkin Pancakes:

1 and 3/4 cups whole wheat ( or whole grain) pastry flour

2 Tbsp light packed raw sugar

2 tsp baking soda

1 Tbsp pumpkin pie spice

1/4 tsp salt ( a. k. a ‘pinch’)

1 cup canned pumpkin puree

1 and 1/2 fat free ( or skim) milk

1 large egg (or 1/2 cup liquid egg substitute)

2 Tbsp unsweetened apple sauce

2 Tbsp cider vinegar

In large bowl mix dry ingredients. In a small bowl whisk together pumkin puree, milk, egg, apple sauce and cider vinegar. Stir this mix into dry ingredients until ‘just’ blended. Let batter rest for 5 min. Preheat skillet or griddle to med high heat and mist with cooking spray. For each pancake, pour 1/4 cup batter onto skillet. When edges are dry, flip. ( 1-2 min per side). Only 133 cals and 1 g fat.

Serve with pear sauce. Heat medium skillet over med heat, coated with cooking spray. Add 2 pears (cored and sliced) and 1 Tbsp crystallized ginger. Cook and stir for approx. 5 min. add 1/4 to 1/2 cup of lite syrup. Cook for one more minute and keep warm.

 

More than excited…

Just as I’d returned from the ‘Bloodsuckers’ and leaving several vials of good looking red behind, Cameron called. He’d researched ticket pricing and routes. Just to say the names of these European stops and how they roll of my tongue, even though a bit awkward. It’s like great tasting candy. Soft, mellow and then a few teutonic R’s thrown in (like Frankfurrrt). Then, there’s Bilbao which I confused more than once with “Bilboa’ something other entirely. But, it has not dampened my excitement and my cells are jumping with joy, like on a trampoline. This is an effect that NO medicine can provide.

Tomorrow I am hiking again with back pack. Training, training for the Camino. Bought some lambs wool belt cover to put on pack straps, to soften the shoulder pressure (suggestion from Connie) and it makes the world of difference.

The other thing that happened which is soo great. My friend Billy found another of our old friends whom we’ve tried to find for years. He lives in Huntsville, Al. (Imagine. I lived there as well. Maybe just a few streets apart? Such is fate.)

 

Triumph Over Inertia

Cameron at Port (2)

Since I last blogged here I’ve been in Newport Beach, then back to Bend; then I drove down to San Francisco to see if we still had that old chemistry (we did). Drove back to Bend. Worked on my Bend vacation rental (which I link to here more for the search engines than for you, I’m afraid), and drove up to Seattle; met with some Earth Class Mail alumni (Rajeev, Ross, Steve) and Dr. Bob (whom I met 20 years ago while he was on a year-long sabbatical at Harvard and I was in law school), and continued to wonder if I might feel myself again anytime soon.

That’s something for a different post.  My post here today is evidence that I have somehow triumphed over the inertia that considered a trip to Spain, in the midst of so much change, a sort of distraction from the real business of post-divorce:  selling house, screwing up the courage to sell house now, deciding where to move (considered by some one of the most important decisions a person can make), selling contents of house, finding an apartment in a new city, packing, moving to the new city, building revised coaching and writing and entrepreneurial career in the new location, constructing a new social life, and so on.  Oh, and stick a five-week trip to Spain in there somewhere.

But of course you will say that a month-long meditation through rural France and Spain is exactly the sort of “distraction” I need, and perhaps as much as I could possibly hope for.  It would certainly go a long way toward slowing down the thoughts, the indefatigable thoughts, that motor through my mind.  Dr. Bob believes, on the evidence of a recent dinner meeting, that I am engaged in “frenetic” activity.  Perhaps that’s a nice word for “compulsive”?

I suspect that in time the timing of this trip will seem more providential than a scary disruption of some other ideas of life.  It’s starting to feel one step closer to that way already . . .

Today I held my breath and took the step of booking myself for a five-week trip thatCIMG4650 disconnects me from normal life, for better or for imagined worse.  On September 16, I’m flying from Newark, NJ (month-long stay in Jersey City sponsored by Adam Weiss and his partner-level legal recruiting) to Bilbao, Spain, home of Frank Gehry’s world-famous Guggenheim Museum (and its contents, which people tend to forget about) and, as if that weren’t enough, home to our uber-trekker friend Julio (who has been on the Camino himself, and therefore has been silent for as long as I have been).

Once we walk from western France to northeastern Spain, it will be time for another kind of reward:  European civilization, a defining passion of both Mom’s and mine.  We decided today that we’ll head down through Porto, Portugal, home of Port wine, and then farther south, through the teeming cork fields (corks also invented in Portugal) to Lisbon, once home to a great empire and now one of Western Europe’s most affordable cities.  On October 22, we’ll fly back, I to Newark and then to Bend, Mom and our new teenage companion (to be announced soon!) to Montrose.

In the meantime, let’s see how many of the questions I have receive an answer.

Crepes filled with veggies

When my daughter, Candy, was little, she’d ask me what a crepe was. I would tell her a crepe was a pancake that had gone to the Sorbonne.  🙂

This is a really good, simple dish. You can use whole wheat flour (1 and 1/2 cups) 2 eggs, milk, 1/4 tsp salt. The batter should have the consistency of (liquid) whipping cream. Let the batter rest in fridge for at least 2 hrs.

Dice and saute small carrots, zuccini, and celery in coconut oil. Use a little Mrs. Dash for seasoning. Then use coconut oil to sautee and fry the crepes.  When each crepe is done, spread cashew butter on it then add veggies. Add salad greens and a sliced tomato for garnish.

A beautiful Crepe is a highlight of the day...

My young days

This is one of the only pictures as a child. In 1944, when I was born

in Erlangen (Bavaria) Germany, war was still going on and there was no money for a camera.

A Photographer came and took  pictures at the Kindergarten when I was 4+ years old.

(Lovingly mended sleeves on a hand-me-down

dress from my sister.

 

First day of school in 1950. We all had our ‘cone’ an old tradition. Filled with sweets and school supplies.

Mother Nature’s Jewels

These are great choices for a summer salad collection.

Either by itself or as a elegant first course. The green one is ‘Lambs lettuce’

or Rapunzel. In the store it’s under Mache’. A little apple cider

vinegar and walnut oil, Then we have red beets,

a dash of cinnamon, raspberry vinegar, and 2 Tbsp walnut oil.

Cucumber and tomato salad, grated daikon. These have only

seasoned rice vinegar and same amount of water.

 

Enema bag for sale….

The past few days have been extremely busy, what with all this cleaning, juicing, preparation of food, very early morning enema, and occasional adjustment of attitude. After all this I have come to the conclusion that I am not cut out for this particular therapy at this time. I am still juicing just not hourly.

The sheer amount of food and cost was staggering as well the exhaustive way to implement all of it. Friends came and helped out with tasks as well as buying bags of raw veggies. (God bless good friends!!) My emotional equilibrium had hit a few pot holes, trying to manage it all. I had to stop hiking which gave me such peace and joy and this whole thing was becoming overwhelming and stressful.

After the fourth or fifth juice I was nauseated. No matter what I said to myself, I was a hair away from vomiting and my stomach revolted. No matter what I tried and I did try, I could not hold the enema liquid for longer than three minutes. ( I fixed the connecting tubing problem with Duct tape. My best friend.)

I remember, after the last cancer I’d said: ‘I’m almost grateful for the cancer because it taught me so much and I learned so much about myself and loved ones and attitude, faith and gratefulness toward things.’ While this was true, I know I carried this acceptance too far. The object is to get rid of it. That’s why I did not wish to ‘own’ it, this time.

I should not have created such a nice, cozy environment for cancer to move into. (Of course worry, problems, financial matters, errant cells, etc) did the rest as well. Cancer is a symptom. We must find out the cause and must become our own detectives in this search. Having a medical professional, who is supportive certainly makes things easier. Not always the case when opinions differ from main stream medicine. An Italian oncologist believes that cancer is a fungus.

I am in search of another workable solution to treat myself. It’s like the Holy Grail. Everyone you ask for directions gives you a different one.

I remember when I talked to Senior Physician at the ‘Hufeland Clinic’ in Germany. She said that, in some cases they opt for lowering a person’s blood sugar. Cancer cells are really hungry for sugar, so they receive it as it along with a low dose of chemo and this does the trick, sneaking past the guard. The cancer cells really slurp up that sugar, then sneaking to those cells and  ‘BOOOM’. In this case the cells get poisioned, not the patient. Do we know this approach, here? Makes sense to me. This is different than toxic overload chemo usually done here.

What I remember too, is that each Physician that I saw, here and across the big pond, was telling me how lucky I am. I was of course puzzled and not only a bit irritated. Here I sit and have cancer and they’re telling me I’m lucky! Then explanation was added. To have had that many years without recurrence is extremely rare. (It had been nine years). Especially with ovarian cancer. My Doctor had told me, way back that if cancer would come back, it would be very difficult! I really wish they wouldn’t tell you things like that. I stays in the back of ones mind. So. To have ‘only’ a few small, tumors and they had not spread, was amazing. The one in the lung, was right at the edge. Clean, without creeping ‘fingers’ and easy to pluck out. Which we did. Only one left. At the spine attached to the aorta. What a place to be. Very hard to get to. This one, I’ll walk off on the camino. (There’s a plan B as well.)

Tomorrow, more tests to see the internal picture and cancer marker. I have stopped all supplements, vitamins, etc. I want a true reading.

Oil change in the kitchen

Before we start cooking, it’s very important to know a little about what to use to cook/fry/saute food with.

Margarine: Lab created. It looks like grey sludge before they bleach it and then add yellow color. Some are made from cottonseed oil which is not for human consumption due to their toxic substance. Others are named ‘Canola’ which is actually ‘rapeseed’. Look it up. They created that one for cars.

All oils, even expensive olive oils, should never see the ‘light of day’. You can use it sparingly when cold but never heat it. It will release radicals which will stay in your body.

The ONLY fat that is healthful and goes right through, is, Coconut oil. Still a fat but a much better one for you.

Butter has gotten a bad rap for a long time and it’s still not the most ideal but of course, much better than above margarine which uses expensive ads. (Especially one with ‘Fabio’ long haired, aging Italian who’s swinging from Garlands  and running up steps in Venice, to sell this stuff.

You can substitute dry sherry, orange juice, apple juice, mineral water to fry and saute. This will brown your meat  and or vegetables without fat.

Flaxseed oil is one of the other healthy oils. It comes in dark bottle and has to be refrigerated. It’s never just sitting for month on a shelf.

Just making a small change can mean so much.

Can we talk?…

You will excuse my hurried post this morning. I’ve been up since 4:00 A.M. although surpised, somewhat, that I could sleep at all after the ‘not-so-new-news’.  I am thankful to the powers that be, to give me peace of mind after the initial shaking and quaking. The running hither and fro with terror and flight of life feelings. After I’d told a friend, she suggested that, perhaps I had to ‘own’ the cancer to start to get better. I said, I ‘owned’  it last time and this time I’d just want to rent.

I thought, I may as well start my increased attention to the matter on hand. Coffee enema. I lost precious time while trying not to upset my ‘tender sensibilities.’ Yesterday came the push I needed. So. I boiled my (organic) coffee (with distilled) water the prescribed method and time. After it cooled I put it in the bag. Well, I’ll spare you the details. Let me just say, that the hosing is a piece of crap (no pun intended) and as I was laying there, being quietly pleased how well this was going, the coffee (four cups ) ran without interruption all over the bath room. Looked like a battlefield. Me included. After cleaning it up the first time, trooper that I am, I did it again with nearly the same results. Ninety minutes later, I am exhausted and it’s not even 7:00 A.M.  Definitely need a new contraption. I am now preparing laundry!

This I must do for the next four weeks. I am committed and serious in doing all I can to avoid chemo/radiation. Inspite of a messy start, this is so much easier than having to do chemo which, by the way has the same bathroom results when you’re sick and everything within you wants to come out. God, that was sooo bad!!

Then, I had to hurry to get my first juicing in as I have to follow the schedule, every hour on the hour. Who would come and help? Need someone for shopping or prepping food. I promise I’ll do the  enema’s myself.

Got to run.

Answers…

I need to order my thoughts before I try to put the kaleidoskope of thoughts down, following the phone call from Doc.

The explanation of the test would be long and in medical language. The slide that was done (and they’d stake their reputation on it) is, that it is cancer and as there is still that last tumor, near my spine, we need to proceed with a therapy and or treatment. Of course, the first thought was denial in some form. Maybe 50%. I don’t want it to be there, or, with all that I’m doing the tumor has regressed.

I forgot to ask about a ‘name’ and I forgot to ask if there’s a ‘stage’. (Maybe I don’t want to know until way down the road.)

The word ‘radiation’ surgery/chemo, nearly took my breath and I’ve begged off for a time, yet. I told my Doctor, I really want to do the camino first. He agrees that this would be a grand thing to do. I am doing so well that it is very difficult to perceive there’s anything traitorous going on in my body. This is the push that I needed to go ahead with Gerson’s therapy. Now, that the juicer is working and I have little else occupying my mind other than taking care of myself. Having my coffee in a different way.

There are still more tests on August 2nd and waiting for those answers. If camino and my faith in a higher power do not work, the next step would be plan ‘B’ and Cyberknife’. But before that, I want to have a scan to make very sure that there is actually something there. My thoughts right now are really like wild birds flying in every direction.

This, I know for sure. I am going on the Camino de Santiago and nothing will deterr me.

Vegan dessert

 

If you think that Vegan Food is boring or restrictive, there’s another reality. It’s much more colorful and with a few tricks and a bit know-how can be excellent, even ‘gourmet’.

I got this recipe of a T.V cooking show and recreated it the same week when I had company. (Got huge raves.)

1 lb Vegan chocolate

1 can of coconut milk

muffin liners

powdered sugar

Divide chocolate. Melt over hot water.  Then, brush muffin liners (3/4 up to top) place in fridge or freezer. ( I do this step a day ahead.) A couple of hours before dinner and /or guests, melt second half of chocolate, poir into mixing bowl. Open can of coconut milk and just use the ‘fat part’ which has accumulated on the top do NOT use the liquid.(Save for another use.) Add 3 Tbsp of powdered sugar and whip choc. coconut mix.

Get chocolate muffin liners, let it stand at room temparatur for a few minutes and then carefully peel off the paper. Add a couple of spoons of choc mousse, then place all back into fridge.

You can make a raspberry ‘coulis’ (sauce) with this and it looks great. Press raspberry through a fine mesh sieve, add a couple of Tbsp powdered sugar. (2 Tbsp of ‘Kirsch’ if desired and I’ll tell you you will desire this.) ‘Paint’ sauce onto plate, set choc mousse cup next to it. Voila. Great dessert.

 

Cashew Butter

Although not fat-free this tasty spread is amazingly good. You can reduce your cow butter-fat quite a bit. For 1/4 cup serving size it only has 11 g of fat.

2 cups raw cashews

1 cup filtered water

1/3 red pepper, ribs and seeds removed

2 and 1/2 Tbsp green onion -diced

2 Tbsp fresh cilantro- minced

1 tsp garlc minced

1/4 tsp salt

pinch crushed red pepper flakes

Place cashews in a small bowl and add enough water to barely cover. Let stand for a few hours. Then place in a blender (or use immerser) and blend until very smooth. Assemble rest of ingredients and add to ‘butter’. Serve immediately or place in a glass container with a tight fitting lid. Place in fridge and use between 3-4 days. This can also be used a a dip base for your party or summer grill.

 

Calling to find out…

Against my earlier self-advice I did call Doc’s office yesterday and left a message with my question about test result. Of course, then I waited and jumped every time the phone rang. My reason was/is, that when I do know I need to have time to research my options and can’t wait until the last minute.

Finally, in the late afternoon I get a call from the nurse only to tell me that Dr. is out of the office as well as today and if he has not called by Thursday, to call back. Geez!! It’s been over two weeks. This whole thing is like a crap shoot.

I had a hard time, yesterday not eating ‘Kielbasa’. When I was at the grocery store, suddenly I absolutely craved a piece and imagined biting in to it with the fat running down my chin. Luckily, this only lasted a second or two and I was once again, sane. (Could be I’m missing some protein??) I don’t have to plan what to eat (or  avoid) as I’m invited to a Veggie lunch. Just had a tall glass of wonderful carrot/apple juice, all the while imagining my cells jumping in this bright red, healthful ‘bath’, splashing and having a grand time. Sure makes one feel better right away. … and then, they rest on a tiny lounge chair wearing tiny sun glasses. haha (I swear there are no drugs involved.)

Bavarian Slims- perfect for Camino

After reading the book “To the Field of Stars’ and describtions of food in Spain while on the Camino, I am convinced that this cookie would be a perfect snack. Lightweight, chock-full of wonderful ingredients and perfectly filling with a drink. Now, how do I pack 5 lbs of them into my back pack?? I’d have to give up my second pair of shoes? Or, my rain poncho?

Chilled Soup on Hot Day

After yesterday’s hike and heat, it would’ve been great to come home to a cold soup. This one is very simple, very healthful and very good. With only 170 cals and 1 g fat, it’s ideal too.

Chillded  Melon Soup:

(makes 2 cups) adjust to more servings)

1 lg honey dew or cantaloupe melon, rind removed

1 cup coconut water

2 Tbs freshly squeezed lime juice

pinch chili powder–and cayenne–and cinnamon

Dash agave nectar (optional)

Blueberries (optional)

fresh mint leaves

Cut melon in half and remove seeds

Place melon in blender and add coconut water, lime juice and seasonings. Blend on low speed until well mixed.

You can use different fruits for different soups.

 

Waiting….

Phone calls are becoming more frequent with family and friends wanting to know the test results from the VATS. (Video Assisted Thoracic Surgery). The first result was incorrect and my Doctor ordered a new test from the Mayo Clinic. We know it is cancer. We just don’t know what ‘type’. What to call it. Give it a name. Well, I don’t want to name it. That would mean it’s going to hang around like a pet.

Meanwhile I also received my new ‘Champion Juicer’. Have to figure out how to work it. Bought 25 lbs of carrots. (Nearly the weight of my back pack!) That’s a lot of juice and I’m supposed to drink 8 oz every hour. (I wonder how quickly I’ll get tired of the taste? )Means, I can’t leave home. By the time I start and clean it up, here I go again. I think, I need to move someone in to help me with all this stuff. Then, the assortment of Vitamins and preparation of fresh, organic food. Of course, keeping a good attitude all the while, as well.

I’m having Lentils and potatoes with Bok-Choy today. A salad to start.

Roasted Peacock

In my last post, I mentioned that my father had given me a recipe for roasted peacock.  I thought for sure he was joking.  But here’s the recipe, just in case:

The young peacock should be killed 3 days prior to use. Pluck feathers and hang in an airy place. Remove head and then tie neck and wings together. Wash inside and out. Then rub all over with salt and pepper. Add 1 bay leaf, parsley and basil into cavity. Place bacon slices onto its belly and roast slowly. Or, you can roast him over a rotisserie, then add butter while turning.

Morning hike in stretched boots

Yesterday was a fairly busy day. I packed my back pack with nearly all the needed things to try out this weekend at the canyon for a lengthy hike. Already it’s over 20 lbs and not all is in there. My fancy water bladder was not filled and my buddy said that 1 gallon weighs 8 lbs?? WTH? I have to take it all out and see what I can do without. Although right now I NEED everything!! Then, I had an ‘aha moment’. What if I lose 5-7 more lbs? Then I could transfer that to my pack.

This morning I walked in my stretched boots and they felt ever soo much better. Rather than having to spend $180.00 on serious hiking boots and have to break them in.

Glorious morning hike. Fresh cut hay giving off that lovely summer smell. The mountains still with a bit of snow on some. A cool, light breeze. Then, I saw peacocks. What gorgeous birds they are. Well, the males anyway. Noisy, screeching things. A little further down the path I remembered that my dad told me a recipe for ‘roasted’ peacock. He learned of it when he was P.O.W in France. I didn’t believe him and thought he was pulling my leg. I mean, who would eat a peacock? But then, some people in this world eat stranger things. I’ll look for it and put it in my recipe section.

 

Mango Arugula Salad

2 Tbs orange juice

2 Tbs olive oil

1 Tbs  each fresh cilantro and chives

1 lime, zested, juiced and divided

1 and 1/2 tsp white wine vinegar

pinch of cayenne pepper

1 med ripe avocado

6 cups baby arugula/spinach leaves

1 ripe mango cut into wedges

1/2 cup red onions

1/4 cup sliced red peppers

In bowl whisk together orange juice, oil, cilantro and chives, 1 Tbs. lime juice, 1/4 tsp lime zest, vinegar and cayenne. Season w salt & pepper.

Halve, pit and thinly slice avocado. Brush avocado slices with remaining lime juice. Place arugula on serving platter. Top w avocados, mangos and red pepper.

Drizzle salad w vinaigrette just before serving.

 

Must lessen the load

Already I’ve learned to pack less. After reading this great forum on www.caminodesantiago.me which is filled with tips, advice and cheering section when it get’s tough. These ‘pilgrims’ are a wonderful community to know and from all over the world. I am looking very much forward to meeting them.

I will pack my back pack (new) and go for a longer hike this week end, just to see what I won’t need. Seems ‘the way’ is filled with blisters, inflammation, sore tendons and incredible joy of having done it. Been there and experienced the up’s and down’s. Just like life?

Food Gathering

This morning was still dark when I got up and not quite bouncing with energy but never the less got ready for a hike. My friend Monika went with me and we drove to the canyon  not the altitude top this time but to the bottom. Hair pin curves are a bit scary and the surrounding is breath taking between high canyon walls and lush, green, narrow valley. The Gunnison River is mandering through there and we even saw a fly fisher. A buck and doe crossed the street before us, not even worried, still chewing whatever they’d found. Rabbits and chipmunks. Only birds sang, otherwise it’s this velvety peace and stillness.

There was no hard breathing at the bottom. Nice change from the lung burning, air grasping hike on top. Next time, we’ll go 10 miles. I have to go farther than a few miles in readiness for the camino.

At home, the same old problem. What to eat? Running off to get fresh vegetables and then putting it together in a pleasing manner. How easy just a couple of eggs would’ve been. Or, a nasty burger and fries. Well. I did the veggies. Boiled my potatoes and added Italian Beans. Love those. (My subconscious waiting for the phone call and results from the Mayo clinic.) Also a side salad with pears chopped in.

Went to price hiking boots. Yikes. On Sale, they’re still $170.00 but did not buy those. They hurt my shins. (Shins are devices for finding furniture in the dark.) They did offer to stretch my boots, free service. Maybe that will make them better. Sure hope so.

French Onion soup

Although this has cheese, it only has 13 g of fat, so as an occasional treat it’s a great soup:

6 portions

1 and 1/2 lb mild onions

2 Yukon gold potatoes

3 Tbsp butter

1 cup white wine

5 cups vegetable or beef broth

1 bouquet Garni (Thyme, bay leaf, parsley) fresh if possible

S&P

2 cloves of garlic

6 pieces wheat or white bread, 1 day old ( not super market type) but Farmer’s

5 oz grated Emmentaler (Swiss cheese)

Cut onions into thin slices. Peel pot and wash. Melt butter, saute onion to a golden brown. Add wine and let cook on med high. Grate potatoes and add. Pour broth and add bouquet (tied) garni. S&P, reduce heat and simmer 20 min. –Preheat oven to 200F. Peel garlic and rub over bread slices. Remove herbs (garni bouquet) and pour soup into fireproof bowls. Add one piece of bread and thick layer of grated cheese. Bake until golden brown. (approx. 10 min)

Bon appetit.

 

Filled with anticipation and committment

Yesterday, middle of the night, I’d woken from another message send by a worried brain. It  seems that every time I am stressed, I dream that I have to move into a trailer. (Having lived in a couple of them, it’s not an insult to folks who still do.) This one was a double wide but still had dark paneling and I was trying to find cubbyholes where I could hide my few, inherited treasures. I had a sign outside the tiny yard which stated : Villas Miseras American Style.’ A phrase I’d coined after I was in Brazil, may years ago and saw their ‘Villas’ like bird’s nests, poorest of the poor, nestled atop this mountainous prime real estate.

I was stressing about the camino, again. How to book a multiple city flight, how to be able to afford this venture. Instead of staying in bed fretting, I got up and went on the camino forum, wrote a short request and then went back to bed. I had 2 answers in the morning. One, from a 72yr old lady, who has walked the camino six times and is going once again, in October. To her I posted questions this morning about what ‘things’ I would really need and what type of boots to buy. (The ones I got on ebay are hurtin my right foot.)

Later, my ‘girls’ came from Grand Junction and we all went to the Black Canyon to show them the Beauty. Took a hike. Carrie (15) great young lady, and I managed 5 miles in 90F and that was a bit rough so short a time after surgery. Altitude made my lung burn. We talked about the possibility of her coming along on the camino. Lifetime experience. I told her, before you get married, you go on that hike with your ‘prospective hubby’ because you will really get to know him, his quirks, etc. in those six weeks. When I showed her some clips of the camino on ‘you tube’ I got re-inspired, excited and totally committed no matter what. I am not going to listen to my own objections nor will I give in to my fears and doubts. I went by myself on a train when I was five, to the next town because I wanted to travel. I went to Nuernberg by myself, on the bus, with nothing but my doll in a shopping net, to visit my aunt. (Mother didn’t know and I was punished when I was brought home.) I went to Munich by myself when I was fifteen and to England when I was seventeen. I can do this!!

Had a good conversation with Adam who put me in touch with a friend of his, who lives in Leon and I could ask him more questions. Cameron called as well and we’re trying to figure out the length of time he could go.

Another coincidence?

Just got back from town and buying more stuff. Sports Authority, where I now own a corner. I was checking out back packs and this guy wanders over to help me. In the course of the conversation, after he tells me, what an awesome idea this is to walk the Camino and I told him why I’m going, he asks:” Do you know about the Gerson Therapy?’ I was speechless for a second. Not only that but in specific about the coffee enemas. My goodness. This is Montrose. Seems like there are a few enlightenend people here.

Bought the backpack but probably end up taking it back as it weighs twice (over 3 lbs) of what should be available, according to research. I need every ounce and every spare inch.

Doubts creep in

For some reason I woke at 1:50 A.M. and chaotic thoughts came marching through on hob-nail boots. I wondered if I could really do this Camino? This long stretch of unknown path. Doubts followed and I was wide awake. How will I eat my special ‘diet’? What if I can’t find anything that agrees with me? How will I ask for ‘Fixodent’ in Spanish? Wonder if my right foot will hold up as nearly 2 years ago, I couldn’t walk for seven months due to a severe case of ‘Plantar’s Fasciitis’. Is this a reasonable expectation…’at my age’? Although not a vacation but a purpose of health intervention, will it work? What if it doesn’t? What will I do for plan B? How will I get to where I need to start? What if I can’t get to a Hostel in time and won’t get a bed? Right now, in the blue hour of the morning, it’s a bit overwhelming. I’m looking at all the ‘stuff’ I purchased and wonder how I’ll get it into a back-pack. (I’ll have to practice this too.) Then, the conversation with Cameron where he can only accompany me for a little while… then, I’m on my own.

Red Beets are natures rubies

Red beet ‘chips’.

Fresh, organic red beets (3-5)

Panko bread crumbs

organic coconut oil

1 egg  (Vegans– no egg)

A dash of “Mrs Dash”

Trim leaves off  beets, wash, cut in half. Boil unitl tender. Approx. 30-35 min. Peel skin then cut into slices. Beat egg and dredge slices through then coat both sides with panko bread crumbs and a dash of Mrs. Dash. Add 1 tsp coconut oil to pan and ‘fry’ slices on both side until golden. (Kids love this.)

Synthetic nightmare is over

Upon waking this morning and hearing the birds, right outside my window, I felt peaceful. Breathing in the cleansed, moist mountain air from the great rains, once more I buoyed (is that even a word?). There are no discernible aftershocks from the emotional lava. I did come to the conclusion, that even though I have genuine feelings about this whole cancer trip, yesterday was mostly due to the side effects of the painkiller. I would rather feel the pain than go through another crappy day like yesterday, if I can avoid it. (Makes me wonder how many people take meds that alter their emotions and thinking? Then take more to deal with that.)

I will learn a little more after my Doc’s appointment today. Meanwhile, I will order some items for our hike. I also noticed, how I missed going up to the early morning sun-lit black walls of the canyon. Maybe this weekend.

Train wreck

Well. I didn’t see that one coming. I am totally wiped out and could wipe the puddle on the floor, that is me.

After months, weeks and days of utter cheerfulness and Pollyanna method, the mighty self crumbled and I’m weeping over any damn little thing. Could be the pain meds. Could be that I feel that having cancer once was enough. That I paid my ‘dues’. I feel like I carried this big sack up the mountain, slid back down, picked it back up and go again.. and again. I feel overwhelmed and sad. I wish I could find a Naturopathic Doc who would lead me through this jungle of choices. Which one to do? Which one to avoid?

I don’t want to repeat, even one more time, what my test result was and how this brings the reality closer and closer. Then again, tomorrow is another day and I’ll carry on, chin up, etc.— Thanks Cameron for catching me and giving me a soft place to fall.

The Gerson Therapy: Cancer Cure, or Health Risk?

It sounds reasonable enough.  According to the Gerson Institute the Gerson diet:

is naturally high in vitamins, minerals, enzymes, micro-nutrients, extremely low in sodium and fats, and rich in fluids.

The following is a typical daily diet for a Gerson patient on the full therapy regimen:

  • Thirteen glasses of fresh, raw carrot/apple and green-leaf juices prepared hourly from fresh, organic fruits and vegetables.
  • Three full vegetarian meals, freshly prepared from organically grown fruits, vegetables and whole grains. A typical meal will include salad, cooked vegetables, baked potatoes, vegetable soup and juice.
  • Fresh fruit and fresh fruit dessert available at all hours for snacking, in addition to the regular diet.

Then things get confusing.  Reading about the Gerson Therapy is like my first weeks as a judicial clerk for a federal judge, where I could still be swayed by whichever argument I was reading.  Witness the Gerson Institute’s common-sensical explanation:

Throughout our lives our bodies are being filled with a variety of disease and cancer causing pollutants. These toxins reach us through the air we breathe, the food we eat, the medicines we take and the water we drink. As more of these poisons are used every day and cancer rates continue to climb, being able to turn to a proven, natural, detoxifying treatment like the Gerson Therapy is not only reassuring, but necessary.

The Gerson Therapy is a powerful, natural treatment that boosts your body’s own immune system to heal cancer, arthritis, heart disease, allergies, and many other degenerative diseases. One aspect of the Gerson Therapy that sets it apart from most other treatment methods is its all-encompassing nature. . . . [T]hirteen fresh, organic juices are consumed every day, providing your body with a superdose of enzymes, minerals and nutrients . . . break down diseased tissue in the body, while enemas aid in eliminating the lifelong buildup of toxins from the liver.

With its whole-body approach to healing, the Gerson Therapy naturally reactivates your body’s magnificent ability to heal itself – with no damaging side-effects. Over 200 articles in respected medical literature, and thousands of people cured of their “incurable” diseases document the Gerson Therapy’s effectiveness. The Gerson Therapy is one of the few treatments to have a 60 year history of success.

The Institute goes on to add that “it is rare to find cancer, arthritis, or other degenerative diseases in cultures considered ‘primitive’ by Western civilization. Is it because of diet? The fact that degenerative diseases appear in these cultures only when modern packaged foods and additives are introduced would certainly support that idea.” Gerson’s solution:  “Stay close to nature and its eternal laws will protect you.”

The Gerson Therapy seeks to regenerate the body to health, supporting each important metabolic requirement by flooding the body with nutrients from almost 20 pounds of organically grown fruits and vegetables daily. Most is used to make fresh raw juice, one glass every hour, 13 times per day. Raw and cooked solid foods are generously consumed. Oxygenation is usually more than doubled, as oxygen deficiency in the blood contributes to many degenerative diseases. The metabolism is also stimulated through the addition of thyroid, potassium and other supplements, and by avoiding heavy animal fats, excess protein, sodium and other toxins.

Degenerative diseases render the body increasingly unable to excrete waste materials adequately, commonly resulting in liver and kidney failure. To prevent this, the Gerson Therapy uses intensive detoxification to eliminate wastes, regenerate the liver, reactivate the immune system and restore the body’s essential defenses – enzyme, mineral and hormone systems. With generous, high-quality nutrition, increased oxygen availability, detoxification, and improved metabolism, the cells – and the body – can regenerate, become healthy and prevent future illness.

According to critics, however, the evidence for the efficacy of the Gerson Therapy is lacking.  While the Institute cites “peer-reviewed” studies, critics claims Gerson’s people (Gerson being deceased half a century ago) haven’t provided any objective, peer-reviewed evidence for its efficacy, and Wikipedia cites numerous authorities who refuse to endorse the therapy, and even claim evidence of harm. So which is it?

Peer-Reviewed Studies:  Gerson’s Side

I’m not able to evaluate the “peer-reviewed” studies the Institute cites.  Most, though, are around sixty years old, and many of them pre-date the diet’s use on cancer specifically (first uses were on migraines and tuberculosis), with the latest study in 1978.  In the current climate, so favorable now to raw and whole foods, the lack of any studies since 1978 is a red flag.

I also see in the Institute’s explanations a certain anxiety in the war of propaganda apparently being waged: “No treatment works for everyone, every time. Anyone who tells you otherwise is not giving you the facts. . . . In most cases your trusted family physician only has knowledge of conventional treatments, and is either unaware of, or even hostile toward alternative options.” They sound defensive, which does not give me confidence. On the other hand, some proponents of the Gerson diet say they are battling far better funded pharma companies and doctors who have an economic interest in remaining indispensable. But is that enough to explain even the Institute’s own apparent failures to cite evidence supporting their claims?

Peer-Reviewed Studies:  The Critics

The American Cancer Society (ACS) – which I do not assume is without economic and other bias, says:

There have been no well-controlled studies published in the available medical literature that show the Gerson therapy is effective in treating cancer.

In a recent review of the medical literature, researchers from the University of Texas MD Anderson Cancer Center identified 7 human studies of Gerson therapy that have been published or presented at medical conferences. None of them were randomized controlled studies. One study was a retrospective review conducted by the Gerson Research Organization. They reported that survival rates were higher than would normally be expected for patients with melanoma, colorectal cancer and ovarian cancer who were treated with surgery and Gerson therapy, but they did not provide statistics to support the results. Other studies have been small, had inconclusive results, or have been plagued by other problems (such as a large percentage of patients not completing the study), making it impossible to draw firm conclusions about the effectiveness of treatment.

Quack Watch reviews the Institute’s claims in more seemingly devastating detail, saying the Institute’s claims are typical of several “Typical Misrepresentations”:

Proponents of questionable methods typically claim that marketplace demand and testimonials from satisfied customers are proof that their remedies work. However, proponents almost never keep score or reveal what percentage of their cases end in failure. Cancer cures attributed to questionable methods usually fall into one or more of five categories:

  • The patient never had cancer.
  • A cancer was cured or put into remission by proven therapy, but questionable therapy was also used and erroneously credited for the beneficial result
  • The cancer is progressing but is erroneously represented as slowed or cured.
  • The patient has died as a result of the cancer (or is lost to follow-up) but is represented as cured.
  • The patient had a spontaneous remission (very rare) or slow-growing cancer that is publicized as a cure.

I know enough about statistics and the scientific method to find these critiques worth a pause.  If the critics are correct, the failure to produce any evidence of effectiveness over six or more decades is a serious one. An even-handed review by the seemingly more sympathetic (and Europe-based) Complementary and Alternative Medicine for Cancer (CAM-Cancer) also could not find support for the Institute’s claims, summarizing the matter thus:

Overall, the treatment has not been found to be effective as a cure for cancer. However, attempts to evaluate the Gerson therapy as a whole are problematic due to the complexity of the treatment, time taken for its possible effectiveness and poor record keeping/tracking of previous patients by the Gerson Institute.

So What?

Does it matter if the method isn’t effective at curing cancer?  Only if (1) it precludes using or slows the efficacy of other methods or (2) it’s actively harmful.

My understanding is that Mom doesn’t intend to use the Gerson diet in lieu of any effective therapy.  Chemotherapy, for instance, is not effective on lung cancer like hers. So it may not matter at all that the Gerson Institute does not recommend the use of chemotherapy with its diet (on grounds “the chemotherapy is seen as a poison in the body, and during detoxification the body would find difficulty in dealing with the level of toxins” – see CAM-Cancer).

Can the Gerson diet be harmful?  Apparently it can, according to the critics and CAM-Cancer:

Gerson therapy can lead to several significant health problems. Serious illness and death have occurred as a direct result of some portions of the treatment, including severe electrolyte imbalances. Continued use of enemas may weaken the colon’s normal function, causing or worsening constipation and colitis. Other complications have included dehydration, serious infections and severe bleeding.

The therapy may be especially hazardous to pregnant or breast-feeding women.

Coffee enemas have contributed to the deaths of at least three people in the United States. Coffee enemas “can cause colitis (inflammation of the bowel), fluid and electrolyte imbalances, and in some cases septicaemia.” The recommended diet may not be nutritionally adequate. The diet has been blamed for the deaths of patients who substituted it for standard medical care.

Relying on the therapy alone while avoiding or delaying conventional medical care for cancer has serious health consequences.

(Citations omitted; see Wikipedia).

How can we prevent these negative effects, Mom, while still getting the undeniable benefits of whole, raw food?

The Verdict: Cancer. Again.

A few days ago, Mom must have been having thoughts of mortality again, because she arranged for me to have power of attorney over some funds she has in an account in Germany “in case anything happens to me”.  She also mailed me her “UBC [USB] stick”, which has her notes on her life story, illness, and, not least, recipes.

Today she Facebooked this:

Dr. just called with Pathology report. Yes. It was cancer but he’ll send it off to Mayo clinic as he disagrees with pathologist [who erred in one of his key premises, that Mom’s lung cancer was her “primary” cancer, when her primary is the one from ten years ago:  ovarian]. It was “clean” without any others in there.

And she sent me a message from there too:

Just got report and it’s what I knew. Will now start the ‘Gerson method’ for sure. Need a different juicer. Mine’s crushing and not expelling the juice.– Will you start checking on flight cost? Where are we starting? French side? It’s the prettiest. :-)

In other words, she’s as determined as ever.  So here’s where things stand:

1.  We expect a report on the actual kind of cancer, and type of cells, from the Mayo Clinic within several days’ time.

2.  She’s throwing herself into the Gerson Method.  We’re looking into juicers that actually facilitate the whole point of juicing – at costs of around $1000 on eBay, but stay tuned to see who – we humble deserving sorts or the faceless eBay masses — wins the next auction (I’ll even take bets on who wins the betting).  Pricey, but we think it’s worth it.  Penny-wise, pound-foolish – and Mom’s pounds, so to speak, make up some very precious cargo!

3.  Mom is now clear that she wants to spend six weeks in Europe, walking as much of the Camino as she’s able, and then – and this thrilled me to hear it, Alp-lover that I am – reward herself with a few days in some Alpine spa, a la the old-fashioned “rest cures” popularized in Nobelist Thomas Mann’s The Magic Mountain.*

4.  I’m researching online and asking Don Julio, our Man on the Ground, what city to fly into, where to begin, what to bring, what it should weigh (a critical consideration), and so on.  As I do that, I’ll build our Resources page . . .

 

* Except that, if I recall correctly, Mann’s hero, Hans Castorp, a symbol of [pre-WWI Germany? European bourgeois society?] was sort of in love with being sick and dying. Though he visited the Swiss sanatorium of the title (based on the famous Waldsanatorium in Davos, Switzerland) only to see his tubercular cousin, his health got mysteriously worse and worse, so that he spent seven years there before being called up for World War I and, presumably, his end.  Mom is the anti-Hans.

Julio Revealed!

Our Man-on-the-Ground in Spain, Julio, sent me today some pictures of himself on one of his walking expeditions in China, with this note about China and his apparently still frustrated efforts to get underway on his next walking expedition:

Sorry, not feet enough to go around  China by foot …

Busy in Europe, still a lot of work to go through here …

He’s funny in Spanish, but when he tries to capture Spanish idioms in English, he’s just a riot:  there aren’t enough feet in the world to go around China by foot, he says, apologetically.

Ciutat-Pro_IMG_0578

Julio is the one who is not Chinese

Ciutat-ProIMG_0582

Julio, far right facing camera, is the one who looks most Chinese

The Other Great Pilgrimage, Locus of Many Darwin Awards: The Running of the Bulls in Pamplona

Mom notes on Facebook today that Pamplona “is on our way of the Camino. Glad this will Pamplona Bacchanalbe over.”

She’s referring here to the Running of the Bulls in Pamplona. Hemingway was much in love with bullfighting and Pamplona itself, but today’s Running of the Bulls is the sort of bacchanal usually associated with drunken college students on southern American beaches. The Running of the Bulls is also a frequent subject of the Darwin Awards, won each year by people who, through breathtaking acts of stupidity, remove themselves from the gene pool.

PamplonaFrom ABC News today:

For those keeping track, the count stands at 113.

Injuries, that is, as the annual “Running of the Bulls” continued in Pamplona, Spain this weekend. Sixteen people have been hospitalized with serious injuries in four days.

The cobblestone streets of this northern Spanish town were slippery with dew, alcohol and trash from parties that rage during the eight-day San Fermín Festival.

Overcrowding has been a major problem, increasing the danger to the runners on the 900-yard course. About 1.6 million people are expected to visit during the festival.

If you were attending the Running of the Bulls, your to-do list might look like this:

1. Fly to Spain

2. Get blindingly drunk

2a.  Show breasts (if female)

2b. Crowd-surf (usually males)

3. Run into street with bulls

4. Get impaled, gored, OR (extra credit) trampled

So, just to review.

This:

Drinking

inevitably leads to this:

Goring

Mom, Irascible, Continues Recovery, Insists on Hiking

Like in the Rocky movies, right after he hits either a physical or emotional downturn in mid-movie, Mom is back in training only days after leaving the hospital.  Cue the Training Montage, staple (in fact) of all fight movies, from martial arts and boxing films to wrestling, cheerleading, and dancing movies.  (My favorite scenes are of Stallone and Carl Weathers sprinting, on the beach).

Mom hasn’t quite figured out how to blog here, so I’m reposting her Facebook posts (at which she has become expert).

Yesterday:

Remember the old joke that the brain was not the most important organ?? It’s been 5 days without BM and I don’t think that’s a correct statement –I KNOW SO!Stopped the drugs all together. I think, one incision opened. I feel like I’ve been ‘filet’. Little buddy came with beautiful flowers as did other friends. Those bird brains have not called about pathology. Letting me wait the whole freakin’ weekend.

One of Mom’s friends told her that if she had an open incision, she should get to the hospital!

Mom:

I’m not paying Emergency room fees on top of those inflated ICU rooms. (You’re a good nurse. You come and see. :-)– I’m going hiking tomorrow. Maybe not Black Canyon but nevertheless…

Three or four days after surgery, Mom is ready to train again.  Can you believe it?

Today  6:02a.m. Mountain Time:

Hard rain most of the night. Great smells and sounds except for the huge Thunder. Came out of my bed (injury and all) like a shot and hollered ‘Holy Crap!!’ Dog ran under my bed and whined. If I could’ve, I would’ve followed. Going for a long walk at the park. Bored to tears at home.

It’s been gushing rain for days, in the form of thunderstorms. Mostly at night. Sleeping with the window open, there’s no better smell nor sound.

On the Coincidence of Spaniards Met in Brussels en Route to Israel

Back in May, my good friend (and partner at Charles River Recruiting) Adam Weiss and I traveled to Israel.  A problem with fuel in Tel Aviv, by various machinations no one could adequately explain, left us stranded in Brussels.  “Neat,” Adam said.  “And second prize is two days in Brussels.”  But Brussels has its charms, especially the Grand Place (French for “the Grand Place”), not to mention that while we were there we met an irrepressible Spaniard named Julio, who was also stranded en route to Israel, and who accompanied us on our second day of drinking in the sunny, French-accented Grand Place.

That night, we were back on our flight, and just after midnight we all said goodbye in the Tel Aviv Airport.  Julie stayed on in Tel Aviv, and Adam and I took a taxi to Jerusalem.  We toured the great old city for a few days, took a train to Haifa, then a bus to the mystical hilltop village of Tzfat.  And it was there, about five days after we’d arrived in Israel, that we ran into . . . Julio.

Now, at this time, I had no knowledge of the Camino de Santiago.  “Santiago,” I have learned, means St. (Santo) James (Diego, which is how the ancient Hebrew Ya’akov ended up being rendered in Spanish).  My acquaintance with the term “camino” was limited to the following:  (1) my mother’s 1972 2-door El Camino (2) my 1992 study of Spanish for an aborted trip to Patagonia – “camino” means “way” or “path” and is frequently used as English speakers use “road” or “street”, and (3) the Gipsy Kings’ dreamy, meditative “Caminando por la Calle”, or Walking in (or down) the street, which, interestingly, turns the camino or “path” into the gerund for “walking” itself – caminando (and, probably so as to avoid the repetition of “caminando por el camino”, substitutes calle for street).  It deserves your listening to’t:

So anyway, who does Julio turn out to be?

* a Spaniard

* who lives near the Camino de Santiago, in Bilbao, home of the world-famous Guggenheim Museum,

* and is the most experienced walker I have ever met.  In fact, he was in Israel precisely to walk from north to south, a distance of several hundred miles. He does these long walks several times a year.

And now he is not only offering advice on the Camino, he is walking parts of it himself, right now.  What are the odds?

Here is his latest:

Hi Cameron,

I´m still in bilbao, we suppose to move to Pyrenees already but problems last minute … always women problems … we´ll probably start next week.

Suggestions : In my opinion the most beautiful part is the begining , means one side of the mountain Saint Jean Pied de Port (France Basque country ) o Roncesvalles ( other side of the mountain , spanish basque side ) from here you walk to Pamplona , now huge fiesta going on – San Fermín – Bull fighters on the road , and many people injured because they are extremely ” brave pepople “.

From Pamplona to Logroño still nice, we are talking about Rioja´s heart.

After Logroño, temperatures in summer are a little bit like Death Valley, you must start every day really early otherwise , you risk of ” melt ” , dry part of Spain… from Logroño you could get bus to Burgos, beautiful cathedral, place to sleep pilgrims fifty yards from cathedral, you could get bus again to Leon , less than two hours, again another beautiful cathedral; the way out from Leon is disgusting, pick up the bus again and depending of how you feel , you could get near Santiago or few kilometers away.

Information concerning buses can be provided all around places where pilgrims spend nights, some people get the bus to Sarria, only 100 kms away from Santiago and that way you could get your ” title ” … you deserve the diploma , and only waiting a funny queue at
the Pilgrims Office in Santiago, you will be very proud of it.

How to decide, It depends how exhausted you are after walking under the sun.

In my case after this delay, we suppose to star walking next week, i dont feel confortable if i depends on other people decisions…  thisis going to be an ” special case “

Well, let me know what you decide and make sure if i am around we´ll share a couple of San Miguel´s ( one of the most popular spanish beers “)

In the meantime, keep fit.

Hasta pronto,
julio

Post-Surgery, Mom Reports Into Facebook

Here’s what she had to say today:

I feel like I’ve been stabbed and then hit by a ‘Mac truck! (2 Days in Intensive care unit and then home. Too ornery to keep.) So. When someone says it’s ‘minimally invasive’ make sure you interpret MINIMAL correctly. Holy crap that was a surprise. Going back to bed and my hazy world of drugs. But, not to fear… I’m back. Thanks for all your good wishes and prayers.

and

Can’t sit very long and am too ‘medicated’ to think about spelling. 🙂 Just checking in to say ‘Hi’ to all of you lovely friends and wonderful family. Everyone called. Brother from Switzerland. Cousin from Germany. Friend from Las Vegas my daughter Tanya and my other daughter. :-)))))))))))) Coughing presents multi-culti curses.

Well-wishers are piling on with comments and Likes.

860-year-old Guestbook of Way of St. James Disappears

I’ve lived four-and-a-half decades without having come across the tiniest bit of news about the Camino de Santiago or its ultimate destination, the soaring cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.  In fact, when Mom told me about the pilgrimage, I said, in the manner conveyed to us in the sitcoms, “Say what?”

And yet, two days after I created a blog for my journey there with my mother, my PDA presented me with a BBC article reporting that the 12th century Codex Calixtinus, a priceless guidebook for pilgrims, disappeared yesterday afternoon from its seemingly secure storage at the cathedral.

This is either total coincidence or it’s looking increasingly as if Mom and I are being called to go all Da Vinci Code on the folks over there.

“It wasn’t a minimally-invasive procedure after all”

Mom called me today, having just gotten out of the hospital.  My first reaction to her voice was concern:  she sounded . . . sad.  Or emotional.  Turned out she was, in fact, in “a lot of pain.”  One of the first things she said was that the procedure “wasn’t minimally invasive, I can tell you that.”

“I don’t know why I thought it was going to be a simpler procedure,” she said, in that slightly higher, sleepier tone.  “But I guess I’m glad I didn’t know what it was going to be.”

“You probably would have just worried more, to no effect,” I agreed.

“I just wanted you to know I’m going to be out of commission for a while.  Julie” – a close friend of Mom’s who is around my age – “is here and she’s helping me.  I have to go now, though.  I need to lie down and just rest.  The pain is really terrible.”

“Okay,” I said.  “I’ll talk to you later.  I love you.  And have someone read you my blog article!”

She said she would.  And off she went, probably to sleep.

Musings of The Son as the Mother Lies in Hospital

An attitude of gratitude. That’s what I am trying to cultivate today. Generally speaking, I 2010-10-13 14.38.10am nothing but annoyed – an attitude of ingratitude, I might point out – by nifty-sounding phrases like “attitude of gratitude”. But the rhyme clothes an important and skillful way of being, one often overlooked by people who wonder, as a result, why they’re not happy. More on that later . . . For now, I am simply cultivating these positive, grateful, appreciative thoughts that, by definition, crowd negative thoughts off the stage:

I’m grateful that Mom came out of the surgery without incident. (As I write this, I still haven’t heard from her personally, so she’s probably still woozy; I know what I know from Monica, one of the members of the Montrose Deutscher Posse).

and

She’s such an inspiration to so many people.

There’s no one with an attitude of gratitude like a cancer survivor. We ignore at our peril the elixir of life with which they emerge from their hero’s journey, telling us, in so many words: This matters. That does not.Guess what “this” and “that” are.

A Cancer Survivor (yes, first caps) is what Mom is, about ten years strong. But cancer is something that’s never entirely gone from a survivor’s life. For a decade now, she’s lived with the tests and the doubt and, more happily, the new and healthy ways of thinking and eating.

In fact, it’s ways of thinking and eating that work that are among our interests here, in this blog.

She had cancer in three places a year ago: pelvis, stomach, lung. (It is the measure of the power of a son’s denial that I cannot call up these locations with any confidence). She put herself on a gourmet cancer-killing diet (and if that sounds like an oxymoron, then my mother has a new definition of ”gourmet” for you), lost over fifty pounds, saw one cancer spot disappear, another get smaller, and the third stay the same. We cheered her success.

Over half a year later, it appeared that one of the spots might be getting bigger – it was hard to tell. Cancer tests, especially after one has had cancer and the resulting floaties – a technical term – remain in the blood, are notoriously unreliable. She was disappointed, bowed, but unbroken. And she still had no desire to put toxic chemicals in her body ever again.

So one spot was operated on today, in a pretty routine procedure. “It’s not the surgery I’m worried about,” she told me on the phone this morning, “it’s what they tell me afterward.”

Camino versus Chemo

I’m hoping they will tell her she can do the Camino. That’s the Camino de Santiago, a thousand-year-old path that stretches from western France across northern Spain, and that’s the Way she wants to travel this September, in lieu of the dread chemotherapy. The Camino, or Way, is said to lead to the bones of St. James, apostle of Jesus, who, like other friends and family of Jesus, is claimed to have left Israel and made his way into European lands more convenient to Catholic churches. In any event, the legend is a minor detail; neither of us is religious.  Mom, after an upbringing that prominently featured violent Catholic nuns, hasn’t any Catholicity left in her.  So it’s not a religious journey. But it is one in which people can, and do, find their own meaning, and I’ve read that it quite often becomes a spiritual journey, as anything does when we do it mindfully.

I know the last thing in the world she wants to hear is that she needs chemotherapy. I’m hearing of more and more people who have endured the horrors of chemo and who refuse ever to do it again – the horror! I hear Kurtz saying, in “Apocalypse Now,” a movie about the Vietnam war that prominently features chemicals that kill. The horror!

Over the last year, whenever Mom has tried to talk about chemotherapy, she’s begun to cry. It’s one of the freshest ten-year-old wounds you’ll ever see.  “I can’t do it again,” she says. “I just can’t.” So she has turned the power of that emotion into the passion with which she exercises and disciplines herself to a super-healthy, natural diet in a world of fake food and other gustatory gimcrackery.

The Purpose of the Camino

About two months ago she got the idea of the Camino from a documentary, and that idea burgeoned into her new purpose. (Researchers into all manner of illness, and even longevity, will assure you that it’s a sense of purpose that separates the happy from the less so, and the healthy or long-lived from the sick and early-dying.)

So she bought herself some hiking shoes and began to “train” for her pilgrimage through Spain on the trails around Colorado’s Black Canyon – at nearly 7800 feet high, that’s more than enough altitude for the 5000-foot Pyrenees.

“Instead of doing chemo,” she reported thinking a few weeks ago, while she hiked near the Canyon, “I’m walking the Camino.” Now you know why this site is called what it is, or at least the limits of my imagination.

What will the doctors tell her after the biopsy on the removed mass? Will they say “Chemo”?

And if they do, will Mom respond, with a shake of her head, “Camino!”?

Instead of Chemo, I’m Walking the Camino!

A few months ago I saw a documentary on the Camino de Santiago.  It sounded great!

Now we’re planning on going in September to walk the Camino Frances, the most popular route.

It’s what I’m doing instead of chemo.  I’ve had enough of that!