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Monthly Archives: September 2011
An Audience with El Notario
El Notario was a very sober man. Small, neat, with a short-sleeved white shirt and a modest tie (so modest it bordered on immodesty), he exuded authority and self-assurance. Julio made sure to legitimate me right away. “El es un … Continue reading
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From Pamplona to “Ave Maria” in Los Arcos
Pamplona to Cizur Menor I didn’t walk from Pamplona, as I was feeling very shaky. I thought perhaps it was due to low blood sugar (the H’s hurt with each step) and I just couldn’t face even walking four miles. … Continue reading
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Morning Meditations in Logrono
It’s a crisp morning in Logrono. It’s going to be another beautiful day in Spain, if perhaps a bit hot, especially given our late start. The women have gone ahead, while Julio and I sit in a café-bar called Ibiza … Continue reading
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A Visit to the Notary
Spain has some serious drags on its economy. The lack of English is one; I can’t think of another country in Europe where the people speak less of the lingua franca of business. Then there are the fueros, or dispensations, … Continue reading
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From Viana to Logroño
The 10K road from Vaina to Logroño has little to recommend it. It passes by some small farms in disrepair, and more than the usual pilgrim trash along the road. At all times you can see the industrial buildings and … Continue reading
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The Mourning Tenor on the Camino de Santiago
In Estella, when I first met the Lebanese women, they told me that they’d spent a few days traveling with a man who had recently lost his son. “But tomorrow was the son’s birthday,” one of the women told me, … Continue reading
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Viana and the Monastic Life
To Viana Last night in Los Arcos Julio and I shared two bottles of Rioja with our young friends Steffi, of Germany, and Jethro, of England. Julio wanted to get up at five in the morning. “Julio, that’s not humane. … Continue reading
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La Bruja en Los Arcos
The Albergue Municipal in Los Arcos was staffed by volunteers, a Belgian couple. The man, rotund and pink-cheeked, was pleasant enough. I checked in and had barely gone upstairs to my dormitory, Bed #6, when I heard Julio downstairs. The … Continue reading
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Toward Los Arcos and the Heisenberg Uncertainty Principle
The End of Childhood is the End of Certainty I won’t get into how, but I found myself explaining to Carrie what I know of the imago, or our image of what attracts us in a mate, and the operation … Continue reading
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Puente La Reina and the Running of the Small Bulls
On Saturday night in Puente La Reina we walked the 300 meters to the main plaza, where carpenters were putting the finishing touches on elevated platforms in the shape of a rectangle with three sides, with the missing side opening … Continue reading
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