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Roncesvalles to Zubiri to Pamplona

Waking Up in Roncesvalles Roncesvalles, Spain.  Wednesday.  The monastery’s automated klieg lights flipped on at 6a.m.  Like a small child, I thought if I put my hands over my eyes, the lights would go away.  The showers operated on a

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In Pamplona… no bull

Finally got Internet and permission to use lap top. What can I say about the past few days? I absolutely loved Saint Jean Pied de Port. I was in high spirits with looking, tasting, and walking up and down the

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Real Obstacles

I don’t mind pain.  It’s damage that concerns me. Today I seem to have struck a new collective bargaining agreement with the unions that operate my right calf, but the left is implacably opposed to my designs.  In past days

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La Bruja en Los Arcos

The Albergue Municipal in Los Arcos was staffed by volunteers, a Belgian couple.  The man, rotund and pink-cheeked, was pleasant enough.  I checked in and had barely gone upstairs to my dormitory, Bed #6, when I heard Julio downstairs.  The

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Viana and the Monastic Life

To Viana Last night in Los Arcos Julio and I shared two bottles of Rioja with our young friends Steffi, of Germany, and Jethro, of England. Julio wanted to get up at five in the morning. “Julio, that’s not humane.

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