Category Archives: Julio

Days on the Camino, What I Miss (Part II), and a Secret to Happiness

I’ve been thinking about it a lot, and probably what I have missed most upon my re-entry into the so-called Real World are two keys of the good life:  the simplicity of my days unfolding one day at a time, … Continue reading

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Mom: Navarette, Azofra, Santo Domingo, Belorado, Burgos, Leon, El Acebo, Astorga

Catching up on entries . . . Navarette to Azrofa It was a 21km hike to Azofra.  It was miserable for me, between this constant runny nose and the blisters on my toes.  (This rhymes).  I tried to ignore it, … Continue reading

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Belorado and Jamón

Belorado, Snore Journal.  The German word, schnarcher, better captures the enthusiasm of last night’s symphony.  Mom began it.  I wrestled with myself.  I felt badly that others were hearing her snoring, and that I might – might – have an … Continue reading

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Navarette, Azrofa, Santo Domingo de la Calzado

Navarette The fiesta two nights ago in Navarette was a pleasant surprise. (I note that fiesta and siesta share the same root, iesta, which surely translates to “Let’s Stop Working Again”). I drank 1-Euro Rioja and ate two bowls of … Continue reading

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An Audience with El Notario

El Notario was a very sober man. Small, neat, with a short-sleeved white shirt and a modest tie (so modest it bordered on immodesty), he exuded authority and self-assurance. Julio made sure to legitimate me right away. “El es un … Continue reading

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Morning Meditations in Logrono

It’s a crisp morning in Logrono.  It’s going to be another beautiful day in Spain, if perhaps a bit hot, especially given our late start.  The women have gone ahead, while Julio and I sit in a café-bar called Ibiza … Continue reading

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A Visit to the Notary

Spain has some serious drags on its economy.  The lack of English is one; I can’t think of another country in Europe where the people speak less of the lingua franca of business.  Then there are the fueros, or dispensations, … Continue reading

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From Viana to Logroño

The 10K road from Vaina to Logroño has little to recommend it.  It passes by some small farms in disrepair, and more than the usual pilgrim trash along the road.  At all times you can see the industrial buildings and … Continue reading

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The Mourning Tenor on the Camino de Santiago

In Estella, when I first met the Lebanese women, they told me that they’d spent a few days traveling with a man who had recently lost his son.  “But tomorrow was the son’s birthday,” one of the women told me, … Continue reading

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Viana and the Monastic Life

To Viana Last night in Los Arcos Julio and I shared two bottles of Rioja with our young friends Steffi, of Germany, and Jethro, of England. Julio wanted to get up at five in the morning. “Julio, that’s not humane.  … Continue reading

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